Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

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CHAPTER 9 . PERTH & WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Great Northern Highway east for 187km (117 miles), take a left onto the Derby
Highway for 43km (27 miles) to Derby, then head east along the Gibb River
Road. Note: The last 70km (44 miles) to Windjana, and from there to Tunnel
Creek, is unpaved, so you will need a 4WD. Both parks are usually closed in the
Wet from November or December to mid-April.
Camping at Windjana Gorge costs A$9 (US$5.85) for adults, A$2 (US$1.30)
for kids under 16. The campground has cold showers, toilets, barbecues and
wood, and a public telephone, but no food or fuel. There is no camping, food,
water, or ranger station in Tunnel Creek National Park. Neither park has an
entry fee. Coach and 4WD day tours run from Broome.
For park information, and to check accessibility and road conditions outside
May to September, call the state Department of Conservation and Land
Management (CALM) in Broome (& 08/9192 1036).
GEIKIE GORGE NATIONAL PARK
Freshwater versions of saltwater beasties such as sharks, sawfish, and stingrays lurk
in the Fitzroy River, which flows through Geikie Gorge (pronounced Geekie).
Although strictly speaking, the gorge is part of an ancient Devonian reef, like
Windjana Gorge and Tunnel Creek, its gold and grey 30m (98-ft.) walls were built
not by coral but by algae. Like Windjana Gorge, its walls show primitive life forms
that inhabited a time before reptiles and mammals were around. Today, pandanus
palms, wild passion fruit, mangroves, and river gums line the banks, and freshwater
crocodiles and all kinds of birds can be seen, especially in the Dry. If you spot
a stream of water arching out of the river, that’s an archer fish targeting an insect
by spitting at it. There are moves afoot to dam the mighty Fitzroy, which makes
sense to some farmers, but will wreak havoc on the ecology of fish and rare birds
and flood Aboriginal cultural sites.
A great way to experience the park is on a Darngku Heritage boat tour (& 08/
9191 5552 or 0417/907 009) with local Aboriginal guides. The half-day cruises
take up to 12 people into areas usually not accessible to the public. Tours leave at
8:15am each day, returning at 1:30pm and include lunch. There is also a 3-hour
walk and cruise, and plans for a fishing tour. Park rangers also run 90-minute
cruises up to three times a day, depending on demand. Ranger cruises cost A$18
(US$12) for adults and A$2 (US$1.30) for school-age kids, and focus on the geology,
wildlife, and history of the area. Check with the ranger (& 08/9191 5355)
for times. Bookings are not needed. There are also two walking trails to explore, a
1-hour round-trip “reef” trail along the base of the gorge wall, and a 20-minute
walk along the river bank to a fishing and swimming hole.
Cruises run April to October or November; the gorge is open but may be cut
off by floods December to March. There are picnic facilities (buy food in Fitzroy
Crossing), but no camping.
For other information call the Department of Conservation and Land
Management (CALM) in Fitzroy Crossing (& 08/9191 5121) or in the Dry
Season at the gorge (& 08/9191 5112).
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND Entry to the park is free. The
gorge is 418km (261 miles) east of Broome, so be prepared for a long day. The
road is paved all the way. Take care with the water level on the several concrete
fords. The nearest town is Fitzroy Crossing, 18km (11 miles) before the
entrance; contact the Fitzroy Crossing Tourist Bureau (& 08/9191 5355). No
rangers are based in the park during the Wet. Coach and 4WD day tours are
available from Broome.