Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

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The Great Barrier Reef Torres Strait Cape York Submerged Reefs 0 0 100 km 100 mi Great Barrier Reef AUSTRALIA A A Sydney Canberra 0 1000 Mi 0 1000 Km Weipa Cooktown Daintree Natonial Park Port Douglas Cairns Lizard Is. GREAT BARRIER REEF Green Is. Fitzroy Is. Coral Sea PACIFIC OCEAN Flinders Hwy. 78 Mission Beach Tully Dunk Is. Bedarra Is. Cardwell 1 Orpheus Is. 1 Magnetic Is. Townsville Charters Ayr Towers Airlie Beach Proserpine Mackay MARINE PARK Whitsunday Islands G R E A T D I V I D I N G R A N G E Bruce Hwy. Tropic of Capricorn QUEENSLAND Longreach Landsborough 66 Charleville 71 Yeppoon Great Keppel Is. Rockhampton Hwy. Heron Is. Gladstone Lady Elliot Is. Bundaberg Fraser Is. Hervey Maryborough Bay Noosa Sunshine 54 Caloundra Coast Dalby Brisbane Ipswich Toowoomba Gold Surfers Coast Paradise Lamington Natonial Coolangatta Park NEW SOUTH WALES 255
256 CHAPTER 6 . QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF Papua New Guinea; it’s home to over a thousand species of fish, hundreds of varieties of corals, thousands of kinds of shellfish, and uncountable sponges, worms, starfish, and sea urchins; in short, the Great Barrier Reef is the Eighth Wonder of the World. The Great Barrier Reef is a World Heritage Site and is the biggest Marine Park in the world. INTRODUCING THE GREAT BARRIER REEF The Reef is not a plant, but a conglomeration of tiny animals called coral polyps. They coat themselves in limestone to keep safe, and as they die, the limestone bodies cement into a reef on which more living coral grows. And so it goes, the endless building of a megametropolis of coral polyp skyscrapers just under the surface of the water. You will see three kinds of reef on the Great Barrier Reef—fringing, ribbon, and platform. Fringe reef is the stuff just off the shore of islands and along the mainland. Ribbon reefs create “streamers” of thin long reef along the outer edge of the Reef, and are found north of Cairns. Platform, or patch reefs, are splotches of coral emerging from the continental shelf along the Queensland coast. Platform reefs are the most common, and what most people think of when they refer to the Great Barrier Reef. Island resorts in the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park are either “continental,” meaning they are essentially part of the Australian landmass, or “cays,” crushed dead coral and sand amassed over time by water action. Dazzling coral and fish life surround cays. Continental islands may have terrific coral, some coral, or none at all. Along with dazzling fish, the Reef is home to large numbers of green and loggerhead turtles, one of the biggest dugong (manatee) populations in the world, sharks, giant manta rays, and sea snakes. In winter (July–Sept) humpback whales gather in the warm waters around the Hervey Bay and the Whitsunday islands to calve. You can snorkel, dive, fish (recreational fishing is permitted in most zones of the Reef), or fly over the Reef. The “Outer Reef,” the network of platform and ribbon reefs that lies an average of Reef Tax Every passenger over 4 years old must pay a A$5.50 (US$3.60) Environmental Management Charge (EMC), commonly called “reef tax,” on every visit to the Great Barrier Reef. This money goes towards the management and conservation of the Reef. Your tour operator collects it when you pay for your trip. 65km (41 miles) off the coast (about 1 hr. to 90 min. by boat from the mainland) is what most people are referring to when they talk about the Great Barrier Reef. You should get out and see that, but there is plenty of fringing reef to explore around the islands closer to the mainland. Learning about the Reef before you get there will enhance your visit. Reef Teach (& 07/4031 7794) is an evening slide show and talk by Paddy Colwell, a marine biologist and diver. He shares much valuable information and history about the Reef: how it was formed; how coral grows; what dangerous creatures to avoid; how to take successful underwater photos. It’s offered throughout the year at 14 Spence St., Cairns, Monday through Saturday at 6:15pm, and costs A$13 (US$8.45) per person. Townsville is the headquarters of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority, and a visit to its showcase, Reef HQ (see “The North Coast: Mission Beach, Townsville & the Islands” later in the chapter), is a superb introduction. The star attraction at the aquarium is a living reef ecosystem in a
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Australia from $50 a Day 13th Editi
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Contents List of Maps viii What’s
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CONTENTS v 6 by Lee Mylne 7 Queensl
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CONTENTS vii 13 14 Canberra 588 by
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An Invitation to the Reader In rese
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What’s New in Australia Since our
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The Best of Australia 1 Maybe we’
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THE BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURES 5 • D
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THE BEST PLACES TO EXPERIENCE THE O
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THE BEST AFFORDABLE DIVING & SNORKE
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THE BEST OF SMALL-TOWN AUSTRALIA 11
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THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED ACCOMMOD
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THE BEST WORTH-A-SPLURGE RESTAURANT
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THE BEST DINING BARGAINS 17 Irish T
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THE REGIONS IN BRIEF 19 Tips Size D
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THE REGIONS IN BRIEF 21 THE TOP END
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THE REGIONS IN BRIEF 23 Kimberley,
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FIFTY MONEY-SAVING TIPS 25 rail pas
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FIFTY MONEY-SAVING TIPS 27 26. Most
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ENTRY REQUIREMENTS & CUSTOMS 29 hap
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ENTRY REQUIREMENTS & CUSTOMS 31 Tip
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MONEY 33 6 Money For American and E
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WHEN TO GO 35 Tips Dear Visa: I’m
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AUSTRALIA CALENDAR OF EVENTS 37 sta
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TRAVEL INSURANCE 39 horse race. Tha
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HEALTH & SAFETY 41 large towns and
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SPECIALIZED TRAVEL RESOURCES 43 too
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SPECIALIZED TRAVEL RESOURCES 45 Eld
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PLANNING AN AFFORDABLE TRIP ONLINE
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THE 21ST-CENTURY TRAVELER 49 has a
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GETTING THERE 51 Two good wireless
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GETTING THERE 53 FLYING FOR LESS: T
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GETTING THERE 55 Flying with Film &
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ESCORTED GENERAL-INTEREST TOURS 57
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THE ACTIVE TRAVELER 59 Tips Peak Ti
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THE ACTIVE TRAVELER 61 Fun Fact Som
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GETTING AROUND AUSTRALIA 63 Austral
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GETTING AROUND AUSTRALIA 65 compare
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GETTING AROUND AUSTRALIA 67 brands
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GETTING AROUND AUSTRALIA 69 Two oth
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GETTING AROUND AUSTRALIA 71 Prices
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GETTING AROUND AUSTRALIA 73 ROAD CO
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TIPS ON ACCOMMODATIONS 75 furnishin
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TIPS ON ACCOMMODATIONS 77 accommoda
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TIPS ON DINING 79 hotel can then gu
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FAST FACTS: AUSTRALIA 81 want to ge
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FAST FACTS: AUSTRALIA 83 will mean
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FAST FACTS: AUSTRALIA 85 one tax in
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Sydney by Marc Llewellyn 3 Sunny, s
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St. Albans YENGO NATIONAL PARK DHAR
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ORIENTATION 91 10% credit card char
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NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF 93 Wharf. To
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St. Pyrmont Bridge Convention Centr
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GETTING AROUND 97 2 Getting Around
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ELIZABETH BAY Billyard 10 Onslow Av
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GETTING AROUND 101 5:20pm. This ser
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FAST FACTS: SYDNEY 103 BY CAR Traff
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FAST FACTS: SYDNEY 105 top floor of
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 107 i
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 111 2
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 113 S
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 115 W
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 117 2
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WHERE TO DINE 119 Finds A Great Pla
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WHERE TO DINE 123 all that sightsee
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WHERE TO DINE 125 NEAR TOWN HALL Ca
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WHERE TO DINE 127 Every night there
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WHERE TO DINE 129 107 King St., New
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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 131 Valu
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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 135 Mome
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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 137 harb
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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 139 to t
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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 141 Most
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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 143 cage
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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 145 Sydn
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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 147 Ku-r
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HARBOR CRUISES & ORGANIZED TOURS 14
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STAYING ACTIVE 151 Bicycles in The
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SHOPPING 153 Finds A Surf Adventure
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SHOPPING 155 Value Discount Shoppin
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SHOPPING 157 Grace Brothers (& 02/9
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SHOPPING 159 here by light rail (ge
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SYDNEY AFTER DARK 161 10 Sydney Aft
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SYDNEY AFTER DARK 163 7pm until lat
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SYDNEY AFTER DARK 165 heats and fin
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New South Wales by Marc Llewellyn 4
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0 QUEENSLAND Murwillumbah 71 Byron
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To Hunter Valley 0 250 Mi WOLLEMI v
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THE BLUE MOUNTAINS 173 Tips Seeing
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THE BLUE MOUNTAINS 175 (US$120), Fr
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THE BLUE MOUNTAINS 177 through bank
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Oakvale Winery Hermitage Rd. Hunter
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THE HUNTER VALLEY: WINE TASTING & M
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THE HUNTER VALLEY: WINE TASTING & M
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PORT STEPHENS: DOLPHIN- & WHALE-WAT
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PORT STEPHENS: DOLPHIN- & WHALE-WAT
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AUSTRALIA’S HOLIDAY COAST 189 ESS
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AUSTRALIA’S HOLIDAY COAST 191 the
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AUSTRALIA’S HOLIDAY COAST 193 San
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AUSTRALIA’S HOLIDAY COAST 195 EXP
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AUSTRALIA’S HOLIDAY COAST 197 Ear
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SOUTH OF SYDNEY ALONG THE PRINCES H
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Page 214 and 215:
Page 216 and 217: THE SNOWY MOUNTAINS: AUSTRALIA’S
Page 218 and 219: OUTBACK NEW SOUTH WALES 207 Moments
Page 220 and 221: OUTBACK NEW SOUTH WALES 209 GETTING
Page 222 and 223: OUTBACK NEW SOUTH WALES 211 cancele
Page 224 and 225: OUTBACK NEW SOUTH WALES 213 tourist
Page 226 and 227: Brisbane by Lee Mylne 5 Queensland
Page 228 and 229: Greater Brisbane 0 0 2 km 2 mi N Ma
Page 230 and 231: NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF 219 Margaret
Page 232 and 233: GETTING AROUND 221 Note that Day Ro
Page 234 and 235: Alt 1 21 Thornton St. Cairns St. Sh
Page 236 and 237: ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 225 L
Page 238 and 239: ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 227 A
Page 240 and 241: GREAT DEALS ON DINING 229 132 Alice
Page 242 and 243: GREAT DEALS ON DINING 231 IN EAST B
Page 244 and 245: EXPLORING BRISBANE 233 7:30am-5pm;
Page 246 and 247: EXPLORING BRISBANE 235 when you men
Page 248 and 249: RIVER CRUISES & OTHER ORGANIZED TOU
Page 250 and 251: THE SHOPPING SCENE 239 JOGGING Take
Page 252 and 253: BRISBANE AFTER DARK 241 THEATER Bri
Page 254 and 255: MORETON BAY & ISLANDS 243 COOL SPOT
Page 256 and 257: Moreton Bay & Islands 0 0 5 km 5 mi
Page 258 and 259: MORETON BAY & ISLANDS 247 to the ac
Page 260 and 261: QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF
Page 262 and 263: . Airlie Beach Prosperine Hook Is.
Page 264 and 265: QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF
Page 268 and 269: EXPLORING THE GREAT BARRIER REEF 25
Page 270 and 271: high-speed, air-conditioned 37m (12
Page 276 and 277: CAIRNS 265 Tips Money-Saving Tip Di
Page 278 and 279: See Map of Port Douglas, Daintree &
Page 280 and 281: CAIRNS 269 Value Travel Tip If you
Page 282 and 283: CAIRNS 271 Wild World—The Tropica
Page 284 and 285: CAIRNS 273 range, and it’s easy t
Page 286 and 287: CAIRNS 275 Tips Wildlife-Viewing Ti
Page 288 and 289: CAIRNS 277 Trinity Beach, one of th
Page 290 and 291: CAIRNS 279 Coral Tree Inn Value The
Page 292 and 293: Oasis Resort Cairns Value The large
Page 294 and 295: CAIRNS 283 Kuranda Heights Rd., Kur
Page 296 and 297: PORT DOUGLAS, DAINTREE & THE CAPE T
Page 298 and 299: t a Port Douglas, Daintree & Cape T
Page 306 and 307: THE NORTH COAST 295 Tips Port Dougl
Page 308 and 309: THE NORTH COAST 297 By Train Five t
Page 310 and 311: THE NORTH COAST 299 Once on Dunk, y
Page 312 and 313: THE NORTH COAST 301 nestled by the
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THE NORTH COAST 305 7 Palmer St. &
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THE WHITSUNDAY COAST & ISLANDS 307
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0 The Whitsunday Islands Abel Point
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THE CAPRICORN COAST & THE SOUTHERN
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FRASER ISLAND: ECO-ADVENTURES & 4WD
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FRASER ISLAND: ECO-ADVENTURES & 4WD
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Australia Zoo 6 Big Pineapple 3 Eum
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THE SUNSHINE COAST 339 EXPLORING TH
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THE SUNSHINE COAST 341 Tips Crikey!
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THE SUNSHINE COAST 343 Tips When to
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Bayview Bayview To Brisbane (52km)
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THE GOLD COAST 347 Tips The Secret
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THE GOLD COAST 349 Value A Money-Sa
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THE GOLD COAST 351 in the hundreds
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THE GOLD COAST 353 Australian Touri
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THE GOLD COAST 355 to the waitress,
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THE GOLD COAST HINTERLAND: BACK TO
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THE GOLD COAST HINTERLAND: BACK TO
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OUTBACK QUEENSLAND 361 sells basic
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OUTBACK QUEENSLAND 363 the first ty
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OUTBACK QUEENSLAND 365 (US$9.75) ad
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OUTBACK QUEENSLAND 367 WHERE TO STA
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0 The Red Centre Ross 87 87 R. Wes
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etween Alice and the Rock (via King
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Hablett Cir. Cir. Roberts Cir. Cir.
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ALICE SPRINGS 375 Earning a Degree
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ALICE SPRINGS 377 School of the Air
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ALICE SPRINGS 379 GOLF The Alice Sp
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ALICE SPRINGS 381 they cost the sam
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ROAD TRIPS FROM ALICE SPRINGS 383 R
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KINGS CANYON 385 At Corroboree Rock
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ULURU-KATA TJUTA NATIONAL PARK (AYE
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The Top End by Lee Mylne 8 The “T
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Timor Sea Wyndham Kununurra Cobourg
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Baroosa Baroosa St. St. Esplanade E
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DARWIN 401 CITY LAYOUT The heart of
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DARWIN 403 Tips Where Can I Swim? C
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DARWIN 405 Season A$115 (US$75) dou
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DARWIN 407 WORTH A SPLURGE Buzz Caf
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Aborigines, and one of the main rea
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KAKADU NATIONAL PARK 411 Never Smil
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KAKADU NATIONAL PARK 413 Tips Glowi
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KAKADU NATIONAL PARK 415 Tips Bushw
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KATHERINE 417 A$179 (US$116). Greyh
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KATHERINE 419 ABORIGINAL CULTURE TO
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Perth & Western Australia by Lee My
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0 0 300 km 300 mi INDIAN OCEAN N Br
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Landscope Expeditions is an excelle
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0 2 Edward St. 1 Brown St. St. Ne
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PERTH 429 miles) north of the city
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FAST FACTS: PERTH 431 through Frida
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PERTH 433 private sun deck is tucke
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PERTH 435 GREAT DEALS ON DINING Per
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PERTH 437 Tips Java Joints Don’t
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PERTH 439 Aboriginal or by well-kno
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PERTH 441 site of the 1987 America
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PERTH 443 to its west, a replica of
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PERTH 445 GOLF Convenient to the ci
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PERTH 447 Finds Desert Designs Abor
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SIDE TRIPS FROM PERTH 449 You pay a
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SIDE TRIPS FROM PERTH 451 Bedford A
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SIDE TRIPS FROM PERTH 453 A$30-mill
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MARGARET RIVER & THE SOUTHWEST 455
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dishes as rare local venison with r
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THE GOLDFIELDS 463 families for abo
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THE MIDWEST & THE NORTHWEST 465 par
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THE MIDWEST & THE NORTHWEST 467 A G
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THE MIDWEST & THE NORTHWEST 469 in
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THE KIMBERLEY: A FAR-FLUNG WILDERNE
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0 1 The Kimberley Region Victoria H
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To Alice Springs South Australia W
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War East Terr. 1 2 To Port Adelaide
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ADELAIDE 491 (US$257) from Adelaide
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FAST FACTS: ADELAIDE 493 FAST FACTS
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ADELAIDE 495 Tips Plan Ahead If you
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ADELAIDE 497 Finds Something Differ
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ADELAIDE 499 IN NORTH ADELAIDE The
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ADELAIDE 501 lizard in captivity in
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ADELAIDE 503 Elsewhere, the renowne
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SIDE TRIPS FROM ADELAIDE 505 So Muc
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SIDE TRIPS FROM ADELAIDE 507 combin
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St. Kilda OUTER HARBOR Largs Bay HE
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KANGAROO ISLAND 511 3 Kangaroo Isla
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Strait Emu Bay Emu Bay Bay of Shoal
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KANGAROO ISLAND 515 information. It
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KANGAROO ISLAND 517 Island Pure She
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OUTBACK SOUTH AUSTRALIA 519 Willoug
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OUTBACK SOUTH AUSTRALIA 521 ACCOMMO
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OUTBACK SOUTH AUSTRALIA 523 Moments
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THE COORONG 525 the age of 11. He o
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Western Hwy Geelong Rd. Show Ground
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NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF 529 You’ll
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GETTING AROUND 531 architectural he
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 533 C
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0 Melbourne Accommodations CAR
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 537 G
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0 Melbourne Dining To Fitzroy CA
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GREAT DEALS ON DINING 541 Il Solito
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GREAT DEALS ON DINING 543 the large
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0 Melbourne Attractions To Melb
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SEEING THE SIGHTS 547 National Gall
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ENJOYING THE GREAT OUTDOORS 549 gul
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SHOPPING 551 FOOTBALL Melbourne’s
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SHOPPING 553 Death by Chocolate If
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MELBOURNE AFTER DARK 555 Value Half
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MELBOURNE AFTER DARK 557 Double Hap
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SIDE TRIPS FROM MELBOURNE 559 9 Sid
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1 Side Trips from Melbourne N 0 Mer
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SIDE TRIPS FROM MELBOURNE 563 NICE
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SIDE TRIPS FROM MELBOURNE 565 resea
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Victoria by Marc Llewellyn 12 Austr
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0 1 Ferry to Tasmania Victoria Brok
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BALLARAT: GOLD-RUSH CITY 571 wicker
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THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD 573 VISITOR IN
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219 Great Ocean Rd., Apollo Bay, VI
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THE MURRAY RIVER 577 children. You
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THE SOUTHEAST COAST 579 4 The South
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THE HIGH COUNTRY 581 nice swimming
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THE HIGH COUNTRY 583 FALLS CREEK 37
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THE NORTHWEST: GRAMPIANS NATIONAL P
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THE NORTHWEST: GRAMPIANS NATIONAL P
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Canberra Black AUSTRALIAN Mountain
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GETTING AROUND 591 books accommodat
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 593 C
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WHERE TO DINE 595 Victor Lodge Valu
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SEEING THE SIGHTS 597 Finds Up, Up
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SEEING THE SIGHTS 599 in the Great
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CANBERRA AFTER DARK 601 A good nigh
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Tasmania Hunter Is. Smithton Marraw
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TASMANIA 605 Tips National Park Ent
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A6 Molle St. 0 A6 0 1/8 km 6 7 8
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HOBART 609 SPECIAL EVENTS The Sydne
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HOBART 611 Tasmanian Museum and Art
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HOBART 613 Customs House Hotel You
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HOBART 615 through regular menu upg
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PORT ARTHUR: DISCOVERING TASMANIA
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entrance to the Port Arthur site, t
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on the “Heritage Highway” (offi
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LAUNCESTON 623 area. The Victorian-
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LAUNCESTON 625 Innkeepers Colonial
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CRADLE MOUNTAIN & LAKE ST. CLAIR NA
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THE WEST COAST 629 trees, moss fore
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THE WEST COAST 631 Moments Dune Bug
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Appendix: Australia in Depth by Mar
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THE PEOPLE OF OZ 635 that can last
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AUSTRALIAN HISTORY 101 637 THE REST
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AUSTRALIAN HISTORY 101 639 convince
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AUSSIE EATS & DRINKS 641 bottles).
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Anna Bay, 186 Antarctic Adventure (
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Whitsunday Islands, 315-316 Wilsons
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Electronic Travel Authority (ETA),
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J abiru, 411 Jacksons on George (Sy
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Mountain biking Blue Mountains, 172
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Lamington National Park, 360 Maits
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performing arts, 161-162 pharmacies
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car travel and, 73 Caversham Wildli
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FROMMER’S ® COMPLETE TRAVEL GUID
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AOL Keyword:Travel Booked aisle sea
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