Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

KANGAROO ISLAND 515
information. It took 30 years of lobbying until reluctant politicians finally
agreed to preserve this western region of the island in 1919. Today, it makes up
around 17% of the island and is home to true wilderness, some beautiful coastal
scenery, two old lighthouses, and plenty of animals. Bird-watchers have recorded
at least 243 species of birds here. Koalas are so common that they’re almost
falling out of the trees. Platypus have been seen, but you’ll probably need to
make a special effort and sit next to a stream in the dark for a few hours for any
chance of spotting one. The new Platypus Waterholes walk is a 2-hour return
walk, great for all ages. The walk begins at the Flinders Chase Visitors Centre
and has a shorter walk suitable for wheelchairs. This walk offers the best opportunity
to see the elusive platypus. Kangaroos, wallabies, and brush-tailed possums,
on the other hand, are so tame and numerous that the authorities were
forced to erect a barrier around the Rocky River Campground to stop them
from carrying away picnickers’ sandwiches!
The most impressive coastal scenery can be found at Cape du Couedic at the
southern tip of the park, where millions of years of crashing ocean have created
curious structures—like the hollowed-out limestone promontory called Admiral’s
Arch and the aptly named Remarkable Rocks, where you’ll see huge boulders
balancing on top of a massive granite dome. At Admiral’s Arch there is a
colony of some 4,000 New Zealand fur seals that are easily spotted playing in
the rock pools and resting on the rocks. During rough weather this place can be
spectacular. Recently, the road from Rocky River Park Headquarters to Admiral’s
Arch and Remarkable Rocks was paved. A new parking lot and loop trail
also has been developed at Remarkable Rocks. There’s also a new road, parking
lot, and trail system around the Cape du Couedic heritage lighthouse district.
You also shouldn’t miss out on the unforgettable experience of walking through
a colony of Australian sea lions at Seal Bay. The Seal Bay Conservation Park
(& 08/8559 4207) was declared in 1972, and some 100,000 people visit it
each year. Boardwalks have been built through the dunes to the beach to reduce
the impact of so many feet. The colony consists of about 500 animals, but at
any one time you might see up to 100 basking with their pups here. The
rangers who supervise the area lead guided trips throughout the day, every 15
to 30 minutes from 9am to 4:15pm. If you come here without a coach group,
you must join a tour. Tours cost A$10.50 (US$6.80) for adults and A$7.50
(US$4.90) for children.
Lathami Conservation Park, just to the east of Stokes Bay, is a wonderful place
to see wallabies in the wild. Just dip in under the low canopy of casuarina pines
and walk silently, keeping your eyes peeled, and you’re almost certain to spot them.
If you’re fortunate you may even come across a very rare glossy cockatoo—it’s big
and black and feeds mainly on casuarina nuts.
Another interesting spot, especially for bird watchers, is Murray Lagoon, on the
northern edge of Cape Gantheaume Conservation Park. It’s the largest lagoon on
the island and a habitat for thousands of water birds. Contact the NP & W SA (see
“Visitor Information” above) for information on a ranger-guided Wetland Wade.
Tips Don’t Feed the Animals, Please
Don’t feed any native animals. Kangaroos and wallabies might beg, but
they are lactose-intolerant and can go blind, or catch disease, from being
fed human food.