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Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

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256<br />

CHAPTER 6 . QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF<br />

Papua New Guinea; it’s home to over a thousand species of fish, hundreds of<br />

varieties of corals, thousands of kinds of shellfish, and uncountable sponges,<br />

worms, starfish, and sea urchins; in short, the Great Barrier Reef is the Eighth<br />

Wonder of the World. The Great Barrier Reef is a World Heritage Site and is the<br />

biggest Marine Park in the world.<br />

INTRODUCING THE GREAT BARRIER REEF<br />

The Reef is not a plant, but a conglomeration of tiny animals called coral polyps.<br />

They coat themselves in limestone to keep safe, and as they die, the limestone<br />

bodies cement into a reef on which more living coral grows. And so it goes, the<br />

endless building of a megametropolis of coral polyp skyscrapers just under the<br />

surface of the water.<br />

You will see three kinds of reef on the Great Barrier Reef—fringing, ribbon,<br />

and platform. Fringe reef is the stuff just off the shore of islands and along the<br />

mainland. Ribbon reefs create “streamers” of thin long reef along the outer edge<br />

of the Reef, and are found north of Cairns. Platform, or patch reefs, are splotches<br />

of coral emerging <strong>from</strong> the continental shelf along the Queensland coast. Platform<br />

reefs are the most common, and what most people think of when they refer<br />

to the Great Barrier Reef. Island resorts in the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park<br />

are either “continental,” meaning they are essentially part of the <strong>Australia</strong>n landmass,<br />

or “cays,” crushed dead coral and sand amassed over time by water action.<br />

Dazzling coral and fish life surround cays. Continental islands may have terrific<br />

coral, some coral, or none at all.<br />

Along with dazzling fish, the Reef is home to large numbers of green and loggerhead<br />

turtles, one of the biggest dugong (manatee) populations in the world,<br />

sharks, giant manta rays, and sea snakes. In winter (July–Sept) humpback whales<br />

gather in the warm waters around the Hervey Bay and the Whitsunday islands<br />

to calve.<br />

You can snorkel, dive, fish (recreational fishing is permitted in most zones of<br />

the Reef), or fly over the Reef. The “Outer Reef,” the network of platform and<br />

ribbon reefs that lies an average of<br />

Reef Tax<br />

Every passenger over 4 years old<br />

must pay a A$5.50 (US$3.60)<br />

Environmental Management<br />

Charge (EMC), commonly called<br />

“reef tax,” on every visit to the<br />

Great Barrier Reef. This money<br />

goes towards the management<br />

and conservation of the Reef.<br />

Your tour operator collects it<br />

when you pay for your trip.<br />

65km (41 miles) off the coast (about 1<br />

hr. to 90 min. by boat <strong>from</strong> the mainland)<br />

is what most people are referring<br />

to when they talk about the Great Barrier<br />

Reef. You should get out and see<br />

that, but there is plenty of fringing reef<br />

to explore around the islands closer to<br />

the mainland.<br />

Learning about the Reef before you<br />

get there will enhance your visit. Reef<br />

Teach (& 07/4031 7794) is an<br />

evening slide show and talk by Paddy<br />

Colwell, a marine biologist and diver.<br />

He shares much valuable information and history about the Reef: how it was<br />

formed; how coral grows; what dangerous creatures to avoid; how to take successful<br />

underwater photos. It’s offered throughout the year at 14 Spence St., Cairns,<br />

Monday through Saturday at 6:15pm, and costs A$13 (US$8.45) per person.<br />

<strong>To</strong>wnsville is the headquarters of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park<br />

Authority, and a visit to its showcase, Reef HQ (see “The North Coast: Mission<br />

Beach, <strong>To</strong>wnsville & the Islands” later in the chapter), is a superb introduction.<br />

The star attraction at the aquarium is a living reef ecosystem in a

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