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Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

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398<br />

CHAPTER 8 . THE TOP END<br />

Croc Alert! (& Other Safety Tips)<br />

Saltwater crocodiles are a serious threat in the sea, estuaries, lakes,<br />

wetlands, waterfall pools, and rivers of the <strong>To</strong>p End—even hundreds<br />

of kilometers inland. They may be called “saltwater” crocs, but they<br />

live in fresh water. Never jump in the water or stand on the bank<br />

unless you want to be lunch.<br />

Always carry 4 liters (a gallon) of drinking water per person a day<br />

when walking (increase to 1 liter/ 1 ⁄4 gal. per person per hour in summer).<br />

Wear a broad-brimmed hat, high-factor sunscreen lotion, and<br />

insect repellent containing DEET (Aerogard and RID brands both contain<br />

it) to protect against the dangerous Ross River Fever virus carried<br />

by mosquitoes.<br />

Deadly marine stingers put a stop to ocean swimming in the <strong>To</strong>p<br />

End <strong>from</strong> October to April.<br />

budget, and time restrictions. Accommodations can range <strong>from</strong> five-star hotels to<br />

“under the stars” in Aussie bush swags. <strong>To</strong>uring with Mike can involve hiking, fishing,<br />

meeting or camping with his Aboriginal mates, canoeing, exploring seldomseen<br />

Aboriginal rock art, taking extras like scenic flights, and swimming under<br />

(croc-free) waterfalls. Mike is one of a select group of operators with <strong>Australia</strong>’s<br />

Advanced Eco <strong>To</strong>ur Accreditation and Savannah Guide status, and has a tremendous<br />

knowledge of the <strong>To</strong>p End’s geography, Aboriginal culture, and ecology. Fun<br />

and personal, his trips are accompanied by good wine (sometimes in locations like<br />

a bird-filled lagoon at sunset) and “bush gourmet” meals.<br />

Lord’s Kakadu & Arnhemland Safaris (& 08/8979 2970; www.lordssafaris.com)<br />

is based in Jabiru and operates charter tours throughout Kakadu<br />

and Arnhemland. Owner Sab Lord was born on a buffalo station in Kakadu<br />

before it was a National Park, and has a strong rapport with local Aborigines.<br />

His small-group 4WD tours, which can be tailor-made, visit the Injalak Hill<br />

rock art sites in Arnhemland and the arts center at Oenpelli, and have exclusive<br />

access to the Minkinj Valley. <strong>Day</strong> tours to Arnhemland cost A$165 (US$107)<br />

adults, A$130 (US$85) children under 14, and operate May to November. They<br />

also do tours to Jim Jim and Twin Falls.<br />

For details of tour operators running <strong>from</strong> Darwin to Broome, see “The Kimberley<br />

Region” section in chapter 9.<br />

1 Darwin<br />

1,489km (930 miles) N of Alice Springs<br />

Named after the founder of the theory of evolution, <strong>Australia</strong>’s northernmost<br />

capital (pop. 97,750) has proud white civic buildings, pink bougainvillea, and a<br />

touch of Asian exoticism. It’s a modern tropical capital—most of it was rebuilt<br />

after Cyclone Tracy wiped out the city on Christmas Eve 1974. Don’t fuss about<br />

unpacking your jacket and tie here. Shorts and rubber thongs (flip-flops) will get<br />

you most places—even the official state invitations stipulate dress as “Territory<br />

Rig,” meaning long pants and a short-sleeved open-necked shirt for men.<br />

Darwin is most commonly used as a gateway to Kakadu National Park,<br />

Katherine Gorge, and the Kimberley, and many <strong>Australia</strong>ns have never bothered

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