Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

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CHAPTER 9 . PERTH & WESTERN AUSTRALIA
in late Oct), the soaring gorges and forested creeks at the base of the Bungle
Bungles are accessible on foot. Highlights are the beehive-shaped walls of Cathedral
Gorge, the rock pool at Frog Hole Gorge, and palm-filled Echidna
Chasm. Keep an eye peeled for rainbow bee-eaters, flocks of budgerigars, rare
nailtail wallabies, and euros, a kind of kangaroo.
There are two campgrounds with pit toilets, wood barbecues, and water (boil
before drinking) but no showers and no telephones. The camping fee is A$9
(US$5.85) for adults, A$2 (US$1.30) for kids under 16. Bring food and fuel
with you. For information call the Department of Conservation and Land
Management (CALM) (& 08/9168 4200) in Kununurra; there’s a visitor center/ranger
station (& 08/9168 7300) in the park.
GETTING THERE & GETTING AROUND Most folks take a scenic flight
over the park in a light aircraft from Kununurra offered by Slingair Heliwork
(& 1800/095 500 in Australia, or 08/9169 1300) or Alligator Airways
(& 1800/632 533 in Australia, or 08/9168 1333). The flight takes about 2 hours,
incorporates a flight over Lake Argyle and the impressive Argyle Diamond Mine,
and costs A$190 (US$124) per adult and A$110 (US$72) per child 3–12 years.
Both companies also do combined air/hiking day trips, though they’re pricey,
starting at A$445 (US$289) per person. East Kimberley Tours (see “Getting
Around” earlier in the Kimberley section) runs an array of 4WD and fly/4WD
camping and hiking safaris into the park, including some 1-day “express” versions.
Road access is 4WD only. To explore by car, you will need at least 1 night to
explore Purnululu’s 3,000 sq. km (1,158 sq. miles); entry is A$9 (US$5.85) per
vehicle. Take the Victoria Highway 45km (28 miles) west of Kununurra, turn
left onto the Great Northern Highway for 201km (126 miles) to the park
turnoff, and allow 2 hours to cover the final tough 53km (33 miles) from the
highway to the park entrance. Turkey Creek, 53km (33 miles) north of the
turnoff, is the nearest place for supplies.
Several companies offer 4WD hiking/camping safaris from Kununurra lasting
2 to 4 days. A 2-day adventure with Bungle Bungles Adventure Tours
(& 1800/641 998 in Australia, or 08/9169 1998; fax 08/9168 3998) costs
A$290 (US$189).
DRIVING THE GIBB RIVER ROAD
If you really want to discover the Outback, the Gibb River Road is for you. Traversing
this sandy, rocky, unpaved 660km (413-mile) 4WD track that links the
east and west Kimberley is fast becoming a “must-do” for seasoned adventure travelers.
Populated only by stark red ranges, rivers that flood to the horizon in the Wet
and vanish to dustbowls in the Dry, fern-fringed swimming holes and waterfalls,
and huge cattle stations, it is a road for self-reliant folk who seek wilderness and
know how to change a tire. Homesteads along the way offer activities such as barramundi
fishing in lily-clad water holes, hikes through gorges, and aerial tours to
remote Prince Regent Nature Reserve, King’s Cascade, Mitchell Falls, the Horizontal
Waterfalls, and other spots on the north Kimberley Coast. Some serve meals
and have basic accommodations, ranging from campsites with hot showers to
rooms at the homestead. You ain’t in the lap of luxury, but after that road you’d
hardly expect it. Getting there involves ribbed “corrugation” on the gravel, soft
patches, and bumpy rocks that will limit your speed to 60kmph (37 1 ⁄2 mph) or
slower much of the way. It’s possible to drive the road in 2 days or even one, but
give yourself 3 to 5 days to do some sightseeing. Note: You can only count on the
road being passable from May to October; much of it is under water in the Wet.