Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

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CHAPTER 8 . THE TOP END
geese, egrets, ibis, brolgas, and other wetland birds from boardwalks leading
through monsoon forests to raised lookouts. Entry is free every day of the year.
Four kilometers (2 1 ⁄2 miles) down the Arnhem Highway at Beatrice Hill, you
may want to call in on the Window on the Wetlands Visitor Centre (& 08/
8988 8188), a hilltop center with views across the Adelaide River floodplain and
touchscreen information on the wetlands’ ecology. It’s free and open daily from
7:30am to 7:30pm.
Just past Beatrice Hill on the highway at the Adelaide River Bridge (look out
for the statue of a grinning croc), you can join the Original Jumping Crocodiles
cruise (& 1800/888 542 in Australia, or 08/8988 8144) aboard the Adelaide
River Queen to watch wild crocodiles leap out of the water for hunks of
meat dangled over the edge by the boat crew. It’s an unabashed tourist trap, and
not to my taste, but because crocs typically only move fast when they attack, it
may be your only chance to witness their immense power and speed. The 90-
minute cruise departs at 9 and 11am, and 1 and 3pm May through August, and
9 and 11am, and 2:30pm September through April (closed Dec 24–25). A free
shuttle runs from Darwin twice a day. It costs A$36 (US$23) for adults, A$29
(US$19) for seniors, and A$20 (US$13) for children 5 to 15. The souvenir shop
sells all things croc, including crocodile toilet seat covers!
TOP PARK ATTRACTIONS
WETLANDS CRUISES One of the biggest attractions in the park is Yellow
Water Billabong , a lush lake 50km (31 miles) south of the Bowali Visitor
Centre at Cooinda (pop. 20). It’s rich with freshwater mangroves, paperbarks,
pandanus palms, water lilies, and marvelous swathes of thousands of birds gathering
here to drink—sea eagles, honking magpie geese, kites, china blue kingfishers,
and jacanas, called “Jesus birds” because they seem to walk on water as
they step nimbly across the lily pads. This is also one of the best places to spot
saltwater crocs. Cruises in canopied boats with a running commentary depart
near Gagudju Lodge Cooinda six times a day from 6:45am in the Dry (Apr–Nov)
and four times a day from 8:30am in the Wet (Dec–Mar). A 90-minute cruise
costs A$36 (US$23) for adults and A$15 (US$9.75) for children 2 to 14. A 2-
hour cruise (available in the Dry only) costs A$41 (US$27) for adults and A$17
(US$11) for children. Book through Gagudju Lodge Cooinda (& 08/8979
0145). Even though it means spending the night in the park and getting up
before dawn, the sunrise cruise is especially good, when the dawn silence is broken
by an overture that builds to a full-blown orchestral performance, courtesy
of the birds. In the Wet, when the billabong floods to join up with Jim Jim Creek
and the South Alligator River, the bird life spreads far and wide and the crocs
head upriver to breed, so don’t expect wildlife viewing to be spectacular.
Another good cruise is the Guluyambi East Alligator River Cruise (& 1800/
089 113 in Australia, or 08/8979 2411). The East Alligator River forms the border
between Kakadu and isolated Arnhemland, and unlike the Yellow Water
cruise, which focuses on crocs, birds, and plants, on this you will learn about Aboriginal
myths, bush tucker, and hunting techniques. The cruise lasts 1 hour, starting
at 9 and 11am, and 1 and 3pm daily May through October. A free shuttle will
take you from the Border Store to the boat ramp. It costs A$30 (US$20) for adults
and A$15 (US$9.75) for children 4 to 14.
ABORIGINAL ART & CULTURE There are as many as 5,000 art sites
throughout the park, of which the Aboriginal owners make a few accessible to visitors.
The two best are Nourlangie Rock and Ubirr Rock . Nourlangie,