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Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

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THE MIDWEST & THE NORTHWEST 467<br />

A GREAT SEA-LIFE CRUISE, LIVING “FOSSILS” & MORE<br />

Don’t do what so many visitors do—see the dolphins, then shoot back to Perth.<br />

Stay to see Shark Bay’s incredible marine life on the sailing catamaran Shotover<br />

(& 1800/241 481 in <strong>Australia</strong>, or 08/9948 1481). During a 2 1 ⁄2-hour dugong<br />

(manatee) cruise, you will see a huge range of creatures, possibly hammerhead<br />

sharks, a baby great white, sea snakes, turtles, dolphins, and dugongs. Every passenger<br />

is given polarized sunglasses, which help you spot underwater animals.<br />

Sometimes you see dozens of dugongs (though they leave the area <strong>from</strong> mid-May<br />

to Aug). The cruise departs 1pm daily <strong>from</strong> Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort and<br />

costs A$54 (US$35). The Shotover also does a fascinating 2-hour dolphin cruise<br />

every morning—worth doing even if you already saw the dolphins on the shore.<br />

It costs A$49 (US$32). Children 7 to 16 pay half price. The Shotover also does a<br />

daily 2-hour dolphin cruise at 10:30am (A$39/US$25) and a 90-minute sunset<br />

cruise (A$44/US$29).<br />

On your way in or out of Monkey Mia, stop by the Hamelin Pool Historic<br />

Telegraph Station (& 08/9942 5905), 41km (25 1 ⁄2 miles) <strong>from</strong> the highway<br />

turnoff. A small museum houses old equipment, farming tools, and historical<br />

odds and sods <strong>from</strong> the 19th-century days when Monkey Mia was a repeater station<br />

on a telegraph line. The A$5.50 (US$3.60) admission fee to the museum<br />

includes an explanation of the stromatolites, rocky formations about a foot<br />

high that were created by the planet’s first oxygen-breathing cells—in other<br />

words, Earth’s first life. You might want to skip the museum, but wander down<br />

to Shell Beach and have a look. You may find them something of an anticlimax,<br />

but following the signposted boardwalk over their tidal zone in Hamelin Pool (a<br />

shallow part of Shark Bay) proves them a little more interesting. The “sand” on<br />

the beach consists of millions of tiny white shells, which were quarried as bricks<br />

to build some of the local buildings. There is a cafe and gift store here, too.<br />

You can explore the saltpans, dunes, coastal cliffs, walking trails and old homestead<br />

in the nearby 52,500-hectare (129,675-acre) Francois Peron National<br />

Park, either alone (you will need a 4WD) or on a half- or full-day tour—although<br />

not everyone will appreciate the park’s harsh scenery. You should easily spot wallabies,<br />

birds and emus, and turtles, dolphins, rays, dugongs and, in season, whales<br />

<strong>from</strong> the cliffs. Other activities in the region include half- and full-day sport fishing<br />

trips <strong>from</strong> Denham and a couple of pearl farm tours.<br />

WHERE TO STAY & DINE<br />

Monkey Mia Dolphin Resort Set right on the beach the dolphins visit, this<br />

oasis of green lawns and palms doubles as a town settlement. Most comfortable<br />

are the spacious air-conditioned motel rooms; safari tent “canvas condos” with<br />

carpeted floors, bathrooms, electricity, a fridge, and a kitchen/dining area separate<br />

<strong>from</strong> the bedroom (but no air-conditioning); and air-conditioned demountable<br />

“park homes” with cooking facilities. The pleasant open-sided all-day<br />

restaurant overlooks the sea. Most tours in the area depart <strong>from</strong> the resort. A<br />

1.5km (1-mile) nature trail leads <strong>from</strong> the resort.<br />

Monkey Mia Rd., Shark Bay (P.O. Box 119), Denham, WA 6537. & 1800/653 611 in <strong>Australia</strong>, or 08/9948<br />

1320. Fax 08/9948 1034. www.monkeymia.com.au. Tent sites: 58 powered sites; 10 on-site caravans; 6 “canvas<br />

condo” permanent tents to sleep 6; 13 park homes to sleep 6, none with bathroom; 72 motel rooms.<br />

A$40–A$55 (US$26–US$36) for 2–4 people sharing caravan rented <strong>from</strong> resort; A$82 (US$53) up to 4 people<br />

in canvas condo; A$92 (US$60) up to 4 people in park home; A$163–A$186 (US$106–US$121) double or<br />

triple motel room. Extra person A$8.80–A$11 (US$5.70–US$7.15). Linen A$11 (US$7.15) per person in park<br />

homes, canvas condos, and caravans for duration of stay. Lower rates Feb 1–Mar 31 (excluding Easter) and<br />

May 1–June 30 except in on-site vans. Weekly rates available. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar;

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