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Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

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THE KIMBERLEY: A FAR-FLUNG WILDERNESS 483<br />

Moments Stairway to the Moon<br />

You’ve heard of a stairway to heaven? Well, Broome has a stairway to the<br />

moon. On the happy coincidence of a full moon and a low 10m tide (which<br />

happens about 3 consecutive nights a month Mar–Oct), nature treats the<br />

town to a special show as the light of the rising moon falls on the rippled<br />

sand and mudflats in Roebuck Bay, looking for all the world like a “staircase<br />

to the moon.” The best place to see it is <strong>from</strong> the cliff-top restaurant<br />

at the Mangrove Hotel (see “Where to Stay & Dine” below), or <strong>from</strong> the<br />

food and crafts markets held at <strong>To</strong>wn Beach most staircase nights.<br />

have set a plaster cast of it higher up on the rocks, so you can see it anytime.<br />

Take a picture of the point’s palette of glowing red cliffs, white beach, and<br />

turquoise water.<br />

You should also take a peek at the haunting Japanese pearl divers’ cemetery<br />

on Port Drive. Entry is free.<br />

During a tour of the Willie Creek Pearl Farm (& 08/9192 6000), 38km (24<br />

miles) north of town, you will see the delicate process of an oyster getting<br />

“seeded” with a nucleus to form a pearl, learn about pearl farming, and learn<br />

what to look for when buying a pearl. You can also buy them in the showroom.<br />

The tour costs A$25 (US$16) adults, A$12 (US$7.80) children, and A$65<br />

(US$42) for a family of four. The road to the farm is 4WD-only, and tides can<br />

cut it off; it is wise to take a coach tour, which will cost you A$59 (US$38)<br />

adults, A$30 (US$20) children, or A$160 (US$104) for a family of four, but<br />

take the worry out of it. They run daily April to September and every day except<br />

Tuesday and Saturday <strong>from</strong> October to March. You must book for the tour<br />

whether you self-drive or not.<br />

The daily croc-feeding session is the best time to visit Broome Crocodile<br />

Park, next to Cable Beach Inter-Continental Resort, Cable Beach Rd. (& 08/<br />

9192 1489).<br />

Several art galleries sell vivid oil and watercolor Kimberley landscapes and a<br />

small range of Aboriginal art. Matso’s, 60 Hamersley St. (& 08/9193 5811),<br />

stocks the biggest range of European and Aboriginal paintings, sculpture, pottery,<br />

carvings, and books in an historic pearling master’s house, and has a lovely<br />

veranda cafe and boutique brewery turning out unusual recipes like chili beer. It<br />

opens daily <strong>from</strong> 10am to 5pm, meals <strong>from</strong> 8am.<br />

On Saturday <strong>from</strong> 8am to 1pm, browse the markets in the gardens of the<br />

colonial Courthouse at the corner of Frederick and Hamersley streets. It used<br />

to be the official station for the cable <strong>from</strong> Broome to Java. Don’t bet the ranch<br />

on this tale being gospel, but locals like to tell you that when the British authorities<br />

packed up the building materials for the courthouse in Britain and<br />

addressed it to “The Kimberley,” they meant them to end up in the Kimberley,<br />

South Africa. Instead, the stuff arrived in the Kimberley, <strong>Australia</strong>. The town<br />

kept the building, and so can proudly lay claim to having <strong>Australia</strong>’s only Zuluproof<br />

courthouse.<br />

A number of boats run sunset cruises on Roebuck Bay or off Cable Beach.<br />

Fishing for trevally, Spanish mackerel, barracuda, barramundi, queenfish, tuna,<br />

shark, sailfish, marlin, salmon (May–Aug), and reef fish is excellent around<br />

Broome; fly and sport fishing is also worth a try. Rent tackle and try your luck

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