Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

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AUSSIE EATS & DRINKS 641 bottles). In the hotter parts of the country, you may be offered a polystyrene cup in which to place your beer bottle or can to keep it cool. Australian beers vary considerably in quality, but, of course, there’s no accounting for tastes. Among the most popular are Victoria Bitter (known as “VB”), XXXX (pronounced “four ex”), Fosters, and various brews produced by the Tooheys company. All are popular in cans, bottles, or on tap (draft). My favorite beer is Cascade, a German-style beer that you will usually find only in a bottle. It’s light in color, strong in taste, and made from Tasmanian water straight off a mountain. If you want to get plastered, try Coopers—it’s rather cloudy in looks, very strong, and usually ends up causing a terrific hangover. Most Australian beers range from 4.8% to 5.2% alcohol. In New South Wales, beer is served by the glass in a “schooner” and a smaller “midi”—though in a few places it’s also sold in British measurements, by pints and half pints. In Victoria you should ask for a “pot,” or the less copious “glass.” In South Australia a “schooner” is the size of a NSW “midi,” and in Western Australia a “midi” is the same size as a New South Wales midi, but a glass about half its size is called a “pony.” Confused? My advice is to gesture with your hands like a local to show whether you want a small glass or a larger one. By the way, you have to be 18 to buy alcohol. THE VINO Australian winemaking has come a long way since the first grape vines were brought to Australia on the First Fleet in 1788. These days, more than 550 major companies and small winemakers produce wine commercially in Australia. Vintages from Down Under consistently beat competitors from other wine-producing nations in major international shows. The demand for Australian wine overseas has increased so dramatically in the past few years that domestic prices have risen, and new vineyards are being planted at a frantic pace. Australian wines are generally named after the grape varieties from which they are made. Of the white wines, both the fruity chardonnay and Riesling varieties; the “herbaceous,” or “grassy” sauvignon blanc; and the dry semillon are big favorites. Of the reds, the dry cabernet sauvignon, the fruity merlot, the burgundy-type pinot noir, and the big and bold shiraz come out tops. The best recent vintages are 1988 and 2002. The 2003 vintage also promises to be a cracker, with low rainfall meaning smaller, and more intensely flavored grapes.
Index A AT Kings, 170, 177, 371, 386, 389, 390, 396, 590 Aboriginal & Tribal Art Centre (Sydney), 154 Aboriginal Art & Culture Centre, 11, 374–375, 377 Aborigines (Aboriginal culture), 635–636 Adelaide, 11 Alice Springs, 11, 372, 375 arts and crafts Alice Springs, 379 Broome, 483 Melbourne, 552 Perth, 446, 447 Sydney, 154–155 Ayers Rock (Uluru), 11 best places to learn about, 11 Cairns, 269–270 Darwin, 402 Dreamtime Cultural Centre (Rockhampton), 324 Finke Gorge National Park, 384 Grampians National Park, 586 Kakadu National Park, 412–413 Kuranda, 275 Mutawintji National Park, 210 Narooma, 203–204 N’Dhala Gorge Nature Park, 385 Port Douglas, 11, 290–291 rock paintings (rock carvings; petroglyphs), 8, 11, 238, 368, 385, 386, 390, 412–413, 476, 602 Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park (Cairns), 11 tours, 4 Alice Springs, 377 Ayers Rock, 11, 390 Geikie Gorge National Park, 480 Kalgoorlie, 11 Kings Canyon, 386 Mangarrayi people (Katherine), 11, 420 Manyallaluk Aboriginal community (near Katherine), 419 Mount Dromedary and Mumbulla Mountain, 204 Mutawintji National Park, 210–211 Port Douglas, 11, 290 Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park (Ayers Rock/The Olgas), 387–394 Abseiling (rappelling), 5, 60, 171, 238 Accommodations, 26–27, 47, 74–78 best, 13–15 Active vacations, 58–63 Adelaide, 486–504 accommodations, 494–496 business hours, 493 doctors and dentists, 493 emergencies, 493 hot lines, 493 Internet access, 493 layout of, 491–492 lost property, 493 nightlife, 503–504 organized tours, 501 outdoor activities, 501–502 pharmacies, 493 post office, 493 restaurants, 496–499 shopping, 502–503 side trips from, 504–510 sights and attractions, 499–501 spectator sports, 502 transportation, 492 traveling to, 488, 490–491 visitor information, 491 Adelaide Festival, 490 Adelaide Festival Centre, 503 Adelaide Hills, 507–508 Adelaide Repertory Festival, 503 Adelaide Zoo, 500–501 Aerial tours (scenic flights). See also Hot-air ballooning Kata Tjuta/the Olgas, 392 Kings Canyon, 387 Magnetic Island, 307 Nitmiluk National Park, 418 Sydney, 134 Western Australia, 424 Airfares for international travelers, 64 shopping online for, 47 tips for getting the best, 53–54 Airlie Beach, 308, 310, 311, 315, 316–318 Airlines, 51–52, 64 Air passes, 64–65 Airport security, 52 Air travel, 25–26, 51–56 Albury, 576, 578 Alexander, Lake, 403 Alice Springs, 368, 371–382 Alice Springs Cultural Precinct, 375 Alice Springs Desert Park, 375–376 Alice Springs Reptile Centre, 376 Alice Springs Telegraph Station Historical Reserve, 13, 17, 376 Alpine National Park, 581–582 American Express, 33, 81 American River, 513, 514, 516, 517–518 Amigo’s Castle (Lightning Ridge), 213 A.M.P. Centerpoint Tower (Sydney), 137–138 Anangu Tours (Ayers Rock), 11 Ando’s Outback Tours, 194, 213 Angahook-Lorne State Park, 573 Angaston, 504, 506, 507
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Australia from $50 a Day 13th Editi
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Contents List of Maps viii What’s
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CONTENTS v 6 by Lee Mylne 7 Queensl
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CONTENTS vii 13 14 Canberra 588 by
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An Invitation to the Reader In rese
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What’s New in Australia Since our
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The Best of Australia 1 Maybe we’
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THE BEST OUTDOOR ADVENTURES 5 • D
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THE BEST PLACES TO EXPERIENCE THE O
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THE BEST AFFORDABLE DIVING & SNORKE
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THE BEST OF SMALL-TOWN AUSTRALIA 11
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THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED ACCOMMOD
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THE BEST WORTH-A-SPLURGE RESTAURANT
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THE BEST DINING BARGAINS 17 Irish T
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THE REGIONS IN BRIEF 19 Tips Size D
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THE REGIONS IN BRIEF 21 THE TOP END
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THE REGIONS IN BRIEF 23 Kimberley,
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FIFTY MONEY-SAVING TIPS 25 rail pas
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FIFTY MONEY-SAVING TIPS 27 26. Most
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ENTRY REQUIREMENTS & CUSTOMS 29 hap
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ENTRY REQUIREMENTS & CUSTOMS 31 Tip
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MONEY 33 6 Money For American and E
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WHEN TO GO 35 Tips Dear Visa: I’m
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AUSTRALIA CALENDAR OF EVENTS 37 sta
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TRAVEL INSURANCE 39 horse race. Tha
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HEALTH & SAFETY 41 large towns and
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SPECIALIZED TRAVEL RESOURCES 43 too
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SPECIALIZED TRAVEL RESOURCES 45 Eld
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PLANNING AN AFFORDABLE TRIP ONLINE
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THE 21ST-CENTURY TRAVELER 49 has a
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GETTING THERE 51 Two good wireless
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GETTING THERE 53 FLYING FOR LESS: T
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GETTING THERE 55 Flying with Film &
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ESCORTED GENERAL-INTEREST TOURS 57
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THE ACTIVE TRAVELER 59 Tips Peak Ti
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THE ACTIVE TRAVELER 61 Fun Fact Som
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GETTING AROUND AUSTRALIA 63 Austral
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GETTING AROUND AUSTRALIA 65 compare
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GETTING AROUND AUSTRALIA 67 brands
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GETTING AROUND AUSTRALIA 69 Two oth
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GETTING AROUND AUSTRALIA 71 Prices
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GETTING AROUND AUSTRALIA 73 ROAD CO
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TIPS ON ACCOMMODATIONS 75 furnishin
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TIPS ON ACCOMMODATIONS 77 accommoda
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TIPS ON DINING 79 hotel can then gu
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FAST FACTS: AUSTRALIA 81 want to ge
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FAST FACTS: AUSTRALIA 83 will mean
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FAST FACTS: AUSTRALIA 85 one tax in
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Sydney by Marc Llewellyn 3 Sunny, s
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St. Albans YENGO NATIONAL PARK DHAR
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ORIENTATION 91 10% credit card char
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NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF 93 Wharf. To
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St. Pyrmont Bridge Convention Centr
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GETTING AROUND 97 2 Getting Around
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ELIZABETH BAY Billyard 10 Onslow Av
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GETTING AROUND 101 5:20pm. This ser
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FAST FACTS: SYDNEY 103 BY CAR Traff
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FAST FACTS: SYDNEY 105 top floor of
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 107 i
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 111 2
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 113 S
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 115 W
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 117 2
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WHERE TO DINE 119 Finds A Great Pla
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WHERE TO DINE 123 all that sightsee
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WHERE TO DINE 125 NEAR TOWN HALL Ca
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WHERE TO DINE 127 Every night there
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WHERE TO DINE 129 107 King St., New
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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 131 Valu
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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 135 Mome
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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 137 harb
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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 139 to t
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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 141 Most
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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 143 cage
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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 145 Sydn
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WHAT TO SEE & DO IN SYDNEY 147 Ku-r
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HARBOR CRUISES & ORGANIZED TOURS 14
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STAYING ACTIVE 151 Bicycles in The
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SHOPPING 153 Finds A Surf Adventure
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SHOPPING 155 Value Discount Shoppin
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SHOPPING 157 Grace Brothers (& 02/9
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SHOPPING 159 here by light rail (ge
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SYDNEY AFTER DARK 161 10 Sydney Aft
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SYDNEY AFTER DARK 163 7pm until lat
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SYDNEY AFTER DARK 165 heats and fin
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New South Wales by Marc Llewellyn 4
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0 QUEENSLAND Murwillumbah 71 Byron
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To Hunter Valley 0 250 Mi WOLLEMI v
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THE BLUE MOUNTAINS 173 Tips Seeing
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THE BLUE MOUNTAINS 175 (US$120), Fr
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THE BLUE MOUNTAINS 177 through bank
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Oakvale Winery Hermitage Rd. Hunter
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THE HUNTER VALLEY: WINE TASTING & M
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THE HUNTER VALLEY: WINE TASTING & M
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PORT STEPHENS: DOLPHIN- & WHALE-WAT
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PORT STEPHENS: DOLPHIN- & WHALE-WAT
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AUSTRALIA’S HOLIDAY COAST 189 ESS
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AUSTRALIA’S HOLIDAY COAST 191 the
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AUSTRALIA’S HOLIDAY COAST 193 San
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AUSTRALIA’S HOLIDAY COAST 195 EXP
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AUSTRALIA’S HOLIDAY COAST 197 Ear
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SOUTH OF SYDNEY ALONG THE PRINCES H
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THE SNOWY MOUNTAINS: AUSTRALIA’S
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OUTBACK NEW SOUTH WALES 207 Moments
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OUTBACK NEW SOUTH WALES 209 GETTING
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OUTBACK NEW SOUTH WALES 211 cancele
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OUTBACK NEW SOUTH WALES 213 tourist
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Brisbane by Lee Mylne 5 Queensland
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Greater Brisbane 0 0 2 km 2 mi N Ma
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NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF 219 Margaret
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GETTING AROUND 221 Note that Day Ro
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Alt 1 21 Thornton St. Cairns St. Sh
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 225 L
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 227 A
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GREAT DEALS ON DINING 229 132 Alice
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GREAT DEALS ON DINING 231 IN EAST B
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EXPLORING BRISBANE 233 7:30am-5pm;
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EXPLORING BRISBANE 235 when you men
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RIVER CRUISES & OTHER ORGANIZED TOU
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THE SHOPPING SCENE 239 JOGGING Take
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BRISBANE AFTER DARK 241 THEATER Bri
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MORETON BAY & ISLANDS 243 COOL SPOT
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Moreton Bay & Islands 0 0 5 km 5 mi
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MORETON BAY & ISLANDS 247 to the ac
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QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF
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. Airlie Beach Prosperine Hook Is.
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QUEENSLAND & THE GREAT BARRIER REEF
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The Great Barrier Reef Torres Strai
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EXPLORING THE GREAT BARRIER REEF 25
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high-speed, air-conditioned 37m (12
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CAIRNS 265 Tips Money-Saving Tip Di
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See Map of Port Douglas, Daintree &
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CAIRNS 269 Value Travel Tip If you
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CAIRNS 271 Wild World—The Tropica
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CAIRNS 273 range, and it’s easy t
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CAIRNS 275 Tips Wildlife-Viewing Ti
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CAIRNS 277 Trinity Beach, one of th
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CAIRNS 279 Coral Tree Inn Value The
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Oasis Resort Cairns Value The large
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CAIRNS 283 Kuranda Heights Rd., Kur
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PORT DOUGLAS, DAINTREE & THE CAPE T
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t a Port Douglas, Daintree & Cape T
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THE NORTH COAST 295 Tips Port Dougl
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THE NORTH COAST 297 By Train Five t
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THE NORTH COAST 299 Once on Dunk, y
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THE NORTH COAST 301 nestled by the
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THE NORTH COAST 303 active, there a
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THE NORTH COAST 305 7 Palmer St. &
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THE WHITSUNDAY COAST & ISLANDS 307
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0 The Whitsunday Islands Abel Point
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THE CAPRICORN COAST & THE SOUTHERN
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FRASER ISLAND: ECO-ADVENTURES & 4WD
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FRASER ISLAND: ECO-ADVENTURES & 4WD
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Australia Zoo 6 Big Pineapple 3 Eum
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THE SUNSHINE COAST 339 EXPLORING TH
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THE SUNSHINE COAST 341 Tips Crikey!
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THE SUNSHINE COAST 343 Tips When to
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Bayview Bayview To Brisbane (52km)
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THE GOLD COAST 347 Tips The Secret
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THE GOLD COAST 349 Value A Money-Sa
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THE GOLD COAST 351 in the hundreds
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THE GOLD COAST 353 Australian Touri
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THE GOLD COAST 355 to the waitress,
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THE GOLD COAST HINTERLAND: BACK TO
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THE GOLD COAST HINTERLAND: BACK TO
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OUTBACK QUEENSLAND 361 sells basic
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OUTBACK QUEENSLAND 363 the first ty
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OUTBACK QUEENSLAND 365 (US$9.75) ad
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OUTBACK QUEENSLAND 367 WHERE TO STA
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0 The Red Centre Ross 87 87 R. Wes
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etween Alice and the Rock (via King
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Hablett Cir. Cir. Roberts Cir. Cir.
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ALICE SPRINGS 375 Earning a Degree
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ALICE SPRINGS 377 School of the Air
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ALICE SPRINGS 379 GOLF The Alice Sp
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ALICE SPRINGS 381 they cost the sam
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ROAD TRIPS FROM ALICE SPRINGS 383 R
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KINGS CANYON 385 At Corroboree Rock
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ULURU-KATA TJUTA NATIONAL PARK (AYE
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The Top End by Lee Mylne 8 The “T
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Timor Sea Wyndham Kununurra Cobourg
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Baroosa Baroosa St. St. Esplanade E
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DARWIN 401 CITY LAYOUT The heart of
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DARWIN 403 Tips Where Can I Swim? C
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DARWIN 405 Season A$115 (US$75) dou
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DARWIN 407 WORTH A SPLURGE Buzz Caf
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Aborigines, and one of the main rea
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KAKADU NATIONAL PARK 411 Never Smil
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KAKADU NATIONAL PARK 413 Tips Glowi
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KAKADU NATIONAL PARK 415 Tips Bushw
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KATHERINE 417 A$179 (US$116). Greyh
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KATHERINE 419 ABORIGINAL CULTURE TO
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Perth & Western Australia by Lee My
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0 0 300 km 300 mi INDIAN OCEAN N Br
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Landscope Expeditions is an excelle
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0 2 Edward St. 1 Brown St. St. Ne
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PERTH 429 miles) north of the city
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FAST FACTS: PERTH 431 through Frida
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PERTH 433 private sun deck is tucke
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PERTH 435 GREAT DEALS ON DINING Per
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PERTH 437 Tips Java Joints Don’t
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PERTH 439 Aboriginal or by well-kno
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PERTH 441 site of the 1987 America
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PERTH 443 to its west, a replica of
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PERTH 445 GOLF Convenient to the ci
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PERTH 447 Finds Desert Designs Abor
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SIDE TRIPS FROM PERTH 449 You pay a
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SIDE TRIPS FROM PERTH 451 Bedford A
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SIDE TRIPS FROM PERTH 453 A$30-mill
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MARGARET RIVER & THE SOUTHWEST 455
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dishes as rare local venison with r
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THE GOLDFIELDS 463 families for abo
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THE MIDWEST & THE NORTHWEST 465 par
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THE MIDWEST & THE NORTHWEST 467 A G
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THE MIDWEST & THE NORTHWEST 469 in
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THE KIMBERLEY: A FAR-FLUNG WILDERNE
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0 1 The Kimberley Region Victoria H
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To Alice Springs South Australia W
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War East Terr. 1 2 To Port Adelaide
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ADELAIDE 491 (US$257) from Adelaide
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FAST FACTS: ADELAIDE 493 FAST FACTS
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ADELAIDE 495 Tips Plan Ahead If you
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ADELAIDE 497 Finds Something Differ
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ADELAIDE 499 IN NORTH ADELAIDE The
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ADELAIDE 501 lizard in captivity in
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ADELAIDE 503 Elsewhere, the renowne
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SIDE TRIPS FROM ADELAIDE 505 So Muc
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SIDE TRIPS FROM ADELAIDE 507 combin
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St. Kilda OUTER HARBOR Largs Bay HE
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KANGAROO ISLAND 511 3 Kangaroo Isla
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Strait Emu Bay Emu Bay Bay of Shoal
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KANGAROO ISLAND 515 information. It
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KANGAROO ISLAND 517 Island Pure She
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OUTBACK SOUTH AUSTRALIA 519 Willoug
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OUTBACK SOUTH AUSTRALIA 521 ACCOMMO
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OUTBACK SOUTH AUSTRALIA 523 Moments
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THE COORONG 525 the age of 11. He o
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Western Hwy Geelong Rd. Show Ground
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NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF 529 You’ll
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GETTING AROUND 531 architectural he
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 533 C
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0 Melbourne Accommodations CAR
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ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 537 G
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0 Melbourne Dining To Fitzroy CA
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GREAT DEALS ON DINING 541 Il Solito
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GREAT DEALS ON DINING 543 the large
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0 Melbourne Attractions To Melb
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SEEING THE SIGHTS 547 National Gall
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ENJOYING THE GREAT OUTDOORS 549 gul
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SHOPPING 551 FOOTBALL Melbourne’s
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SHOPPING 553 Death by Chocolate If
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MELBOURNE AFTER DARK 555 Value Half
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MELBOURNE AFTER DARK 557 Double Hap
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SIDE TRIPS FROM MELBOURNE 559 9 Sid
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1 Side Trips from Melbourne N 0 Mer
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SIDE TRIPS FROM MELBOURNE 563 NICE
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SIDE TRIPS FROM MELBOURNE 565 resea
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Victoria by Marc Llewellyn 12 Austr
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0 1 Ferry to Tasmania Victoria Brok
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BALLARAT: GOLD-RUSH CITY 571 wicker
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THE GREAT OCEAN ROAD 573 VISITOR IN
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219 Great Ocean Rd., Apollo Bay, VI
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THE MURRAY RIVER 577 children. You
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THE SOUTHEAST COAST 579 4 The South
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THE HIGH COUNTRY 581 nice swimming
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THE HIGH COUNTRY 583 FALLS CREEK 37
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THE NORTHWEST: GRAMPIANS NATIONAL P
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THE NORTHWEST: GRAMPIANS NATIONAL P
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Canberra Black AUSTRALIAN Mountain
Page 602 and 603: GETTING AROUND 591 books accommodat
Page 604 and 605: ACCOMMODATIONS YOU CAN AFFORD 593 C
Page 606 and 607: WHERE TO DINE 595 Victor Lodge Valu
Page 608 and 609: SEEING THE SIGHTS 597 Finds Up, Up
Page 610 and 611: SEEING THE SIGHTS 599 in the Great
Page 612 and 613: CANBERRA AFTER DARK 601 A good nigh
Page 614 and 615: Tasmania Hunter Is. Smithton Marraw
Page 616 and 617: TASMANIA 605 Tips National Park Ent
Page 618 and 619: A6 Molle St. 0 A6 0 1/8 km 6 7 8
Page 620 and 621: HOBART 609 SPECIAL EVENTS The Sydne
Page 622 and 623: HOBART 611 Tasmanian Museum and Art
Page 624 and 625: HOBART 613 Customs House Hotel You
Page 626 and 627: HOBART 615 through regular menu upg
Page 628 and 629: PORT ARTHUR: DISCOVERING TASMANIA
Page 630 and 631: entrance to the Port Arthur site, t
Page 632 and 633: on the “Heritage Highway” (offi
Page 634 and 635: LAUNCESTON 623 area. The Victorian-
Page 636 and 637: LAUNCESTON 625 Innkeepers Colonial
Page 638 and 639: CRADLE MOUNTAIN & LAKE ST. CLAIR NA
Page 640 and 641: THE WEST COAST 629 trees, moss fore
Page 642 and 643: THE WEST COAST 631 Moments Dune Bug
Page 644 and 645: Appendix: Australia in Depth by Mar
Page 646 and 647: THE PEOPLE OF OZ 635 that can last
Page 648 and 649: AUSTRALIAN HISTORY 101 637 THE REST
Page 650 and 651: AUSTRALIAN HISTORY 101 639 convince
Page 654 and 655: Anna Bay, 186 Antarctic Adventure (
Page 656 and 657: Whitsunday Islands, 315-316 Wilsons
Page 658 and 659: Electronic Travel Authority (ETA),
Page 660 and 661: J abiru, 411 Jacksons on George (Sy
Page 662 and 663: Mountain biking Blue Mountains, 172
Page 664 and 665: Lamington National Park, 360 Maits
Page 666 and 667: performing arts, 161-162 pharmacies
Page 668 and 669: car travel and, 73 Caversham Wildli
Page 670 and 671: FROMMER’S ® COMPLETE TRAVEL GUID
Page 672 and 673: AOL Keyword:Travel Booked aisle sea
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