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ULURU-KATA TJUTA NATIONAL PARK (AYERS ROCK/THE OLGAS) 391
Dinner in the Desert
Why sit in a restaurant when you can eat outside in the dust? You
came to the Outback to be outside! Ayers Rock Resort’s Sounds of
Silence dinner makes outside eating a fascinating event. In an outdoor
clearing, you sip champagne and nibble canapés as the sun sets
over the Rock to the strains of a didgeridoo—played by a white man
(the excuse is that didgeridoos don’t come from this part of the world,
but from Arnhem Land)—though there seem to be plenty of local
Aborigines who play. Hopefully, you’ve zeroed in on people you want
to sit with by now, because you head to communal white-clothed, candlelit
tables and a serve-yourself meal of kangaroo, and barramundi (a
large freshwater fish). Last time I was here they served pretty poor
pumpkin soup to begin, the main courses varied from bland to nice,
and the Aussie wines were bad examples. However, after dinner, the
lanterns fade, and you are left with stillness (apart from an occasional
dingo looking for scraps). It is the first time some city folk have ever
heard silence. Next, an astronomer points out the constellations of the
Southern Hemisphere, and you have a chance to see the stars through
telescopes. Sounds of Silence is held nightly, weather permitting, and
costs A$120 (US$78) for adults and A$60 (US$39) for children under 15,
including transfers from Ayers Rock Resort. It’s mighty popular, so
book 3 months ahead in peak season. Book through the Ayers Rock
Resort office in Sydney (& 02/9339 1040 or 1300/139 889).
A shorter walk is the easy 1km (just over .5-mile) round-trip trail from the
Mutitjulu parking lot to the pretty water hole near the Rock’s base, where there
is some rock art. The Liru Track is another easy trail; it runs 2km (1.25 miles)
from the Cultural Centre to Uluru, where it links with the Base Walk.
Make time for the free daily 2km (1.25-mile) Mala Walk , where the
ranger, who is often an Aborigine, explains the Dreamtime myths behind Uluru,
talks about Aboriginal lifestyles and hunting techniques in days past, and
explains the significance of the rock art and other sites you see along the way.
The 90-minute trip leaves the Mala Walk sign at the base of the Uluru climb at
10am May through September, and at a cooler 8am October through April.
Before setting off on any walk, it’s a good idea to arm yourself with the selfguided
walking notes available for A$1.10 (US70¢) from the Cultural Centre
(see “Visitor Information” above).
A paved road runs around the Rock.
Most companies offer base tours. As an example, Discovery Ecotours
(& 1800/803 174; www.discoveryecotours.com.au) conducts two guided base
tours that give you an insight into natural history, rock art, and Dreamtime
beliefs. Both arrive in time for sunrise: One is a 5-hour walk; the other is a 4-
hour tour in a 4WD vehicle that incorporates short walks to the Rock base and
a stop at the Uluru-Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre. Both include the park entry fee
and breakfast, and cost A$105 (US$68) for adults and A$70 (US$46) for children
6 to 15. Admission is free for kids under 6, but their meals are not
included. The 5-hour walk is not suited for kids under 10.