Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

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CHAPTER 8 . THE TOP END
center shows 1-hour videos on the park’s natural history and Aboriginal culture,
stocks maps and free park notes, has a library and displays, and information officers
are on hand. There is a gift shop and a cafe, open daily from 8am to 5pm.
You can also book tours and get information at the Jabiru Travel Centre,
Shop 6, Tasman Plaza, Jabiru, NT 0886 (& 08/8979 25480).
Before you arrive, you can find information on Kakadu, and book tours to it,
at the Tourism Top End visitor information center in Darwin. You can also contact
the rangers at Kakadu National Park (& 08/8938 1120; www.ea.gov.au/
parks/kakadu).
WHEN TO GO Kakadu has two distinct seasons—Wet and Dry. The Dry
Season from May to October is overwhelmingly the best time to go, thanks to
equable temperatures around 86°F (30°C) and sunny days. Many tours, park
hotels, and even campsites are booked a year in advance; so don’t travel without
reservations. In the Wet Season, from November through April, floodwaters
cover much of the park, some attractions are cut off unexpectedly, and the heat
and humidity are extreme. Some tour companies do not run during the Wet,
and ranger talks, walks, and slide shows are not offered. The upside of visiting
during the Wet is that the crowds vanish, the brownish vegetation bursts into
green, waterfalls swell from a trickle to a roar, and lightning storms are spectacular,
especially in the very hot “build-up” to the season in October and November.
The landscape can change dramatically from one day to the next as
floodwaters rise and fall, so be prepared for surprises, both nice ones—like giant
flocks of geese that are here today, gone tomorrow—and unwelcome ones, like
blocked roads. Although it sometimes pours down all day, it is more common
for the rain to fall in late afternoon storms and at night. Take it easy in the
humidity and don’t even think about camping in this heat—stay in air-conditioned
accommodations.
GETTING THERE Follow the Stuart Highway 34km (21 miles) south of
Darwin, and turn left onto the Arnhem Highway all the way to the park’s northern
entrance station. The trip takes 2 1 ⁄2 to 3 hours. If you’re coming from the
south, turn off the Stuart Highway at Pine Creek onto the Kakadu Highway and
follow the Kakadu Highway for 79km (49 miles) to the park’s southern entrance
station. Greyhound Pioneer (& 13 20 30 in Australia) travels daily from Darwin
stopping at Jabiru and Cooinda for A$84 (US$55) return trip.
A big range of coach, minibus, and 4WD tours and camping safaris taking an
average of 1 to 3 days depart from Darwin every day. These are a good idea,
because many of Kakadu’s geological, ecological, and Aboriginal attractions only
come to life with a guide, and the best water holes, lookouts, and wildlife viewing
spots change dramatically from month to month, or even from day to day.
FEES & REGULATIONS The park entry fee of A$16 (US$10) per adult is
valid for 14 days. Children 15 and under enter free.
TIPS FOR EXPLORING Kakadu is a big place—about 200km (125 miles)
long by 100km (63 miles) wide—so plan to spend a couple of nights here. It is
really too far and too big to see much in a day from Darwin.
Most attractions are accessible in a conventional vehicle on sealed (paved)
roads, but a 4WD vehicle allows you to get to more falls, water holes, and campsites.
Thrifty (& 08/8979 2552) rents cars at the Mobil service station, Lakeside
Drive, Jabiru; otherwise, rent a car in Darwin. If you 4WD it, always check the
road conditions at the Bowali Visitor Centre (& 08/8938 1120). In the Wet
Season (late Nov to Apr), call daily to check floodwater levels on all roads, paved