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Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

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THE NORTH COAST 305<br />

7 Palmer St. & 07/4724 1460. Reservations recommended. Main courses A$11–A$23 (US$7.10–US$15).<br />

AE, DC, MC, V. Tues–Fri 11:30am–2pm; Tues–Sun 5:30–10pm.<br />

Worth a Splurge<br />

Zouí Alto MODERN AUSTRALIAN This is not just one of the best<br />

restaurants in <strong>To</strong>wnsville, it’s one of the best in the country. Chef Mark<br />

Edwards, who’s cooked for the King of Norway, turns out terrific food, while his<br />

effusive wife Eleni runs the front of the house, which is idiosyncratically decked<br />

out in primary splashes and Greek urns. Main courses include ravioli with<br />

choice of filling—pumpkin and blue vein cheese, sweet potato and ginger, or<br />

sun-dried tomato and goat’s cheese. Arrive before sunset, to make the most of<br />

the spectacular views of Castle Hill on one side and the bay on the other.<br />

On 14th floor at Aquarius on the Beach, 75 The Strand.& 07/4721 4700. Reservations recommended. Main<br />

courses A$18–A$22 (US$12–US$14). AE, MC, V. Tues–Sat 6:30–9:30pm. Bus: 1B.<br />

TOWNSVILLE AFTER DARK<br />

Not much happens until Friday and Saturday night in <strong>To</strong>wnsville. The Bank<br />

Niteclub, 169 Flinders St. East (& 07/4721 1916), gets a young crowd who<br />

party, dance, and pick each other up. Less frenetic social animals prefer the city’s<br />

lovely historical pubs edged with wrought-iron lace verandas. The most popular<br />

is the Exchange , 151 Flinders St. East (& 07/4771 3335)—choose your poison<br />

<strong>from</strong> the hip wine bar downstairs or the Western bourbon and cigar saloon<br />

upstairs; ask the bar staff to tell you about the resident ghost. Errol Flynn used<br />

to like staying at The <strong>Australia</strong>n Hotel, 11 Palmer St. (& 07/4722 6999);<br />

no doubt he knocked back a beer or two on the wide upstairs veranda, and you<br />

can, too.<br />

The Quarterdeck (& 07/4722 2333), by the water, belongs to the Jupiters<br />

Hotel & Casino at the Breakwater marina on Sir Leslie Thiess Drive, and has<br />

dinner music Thursday evening, live bands Friday and Saturday night <strong>from</strong><br />

9pm, and live jazz on Sunday winter afternoons and summer evenings. A grill is<br />

open for steaks, seafood, and light meals <strong>from</strong> 11:30am to 9pm daily. You may<br />

want to combine a meal here with a visit to the casino off the hotel lobby.<br />

A SIDE TRIP TO MAGNETIC ISLAND<br />

8km (5 miles) E of <strong>To</strong>wnsville<br />

“Maggie” is a delightful 51-sq.-km (20-sq.-mile) national park island 20 minutes<br />

<strong>from</strong> <strong>To</strong>wnsville by ferry. Only 2,500 locals live here, but it’s also popular<br />

with mainlanders who love its holiday atmosphere. If you want an island interlude<br />

during your Aussie vacation but don’t want to pay through the nose at the<br />

ritzy island resorts, Maggie is an ideal alternative. It is a busy little place as visitors<br />

and locals zip about between the small settlements dotted around its coast,<br />

but peace-seeking visitors will find plenty of unspoiled nature to restore their<br />

souls. Most people come for the 20 or so pristine (and amazingly uncrowded)<br />

bays and white beaches that rim the island, but hikers, botanists, and birdwatchers<br />

may want to explore the eucalyptus woods, patches of gully rainforest,<br />

and granite tors. (The island got its name when Captain Cook thought the<br />

“magnetic” rocks were interfering with his compass readings.) The place is<br />

famous for wild koalas easily spotted up in the gum trees by the side of the road;<br />

ask a local to point you to the nearest colony. Rock wallabies are often spotted<br />

in the early morning. Maggie is off the international tourist trail by and large,<br />

and it’s definitely a casual kind of place, so leave your Prada stilettos in your<br />

suitcase.

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