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Frommer's Australia from $50 a Day 13th Edition - To Parent Directory

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PORT DOUGLAS, DAINTREE & THE CAPE TRIBULATION AREA 289<br />

pack yours, learn about bush medicine and the wildlife around you, and clamber<br />

up a stream to a waterfall. He takes a maximum six people at a time. Lunch<br />

and pickups are included in the price of A$110 (US$72). His walks run Tuesday<br />

and Saturday, leaving Port at 8:30am. You can also charter Pete and his<br />

4WD on other days for day bushwalks for A$160 (US$104) per person (minimum<br />

of two) or for a “go anywhere” adventure for A$540 (US$351) per day.<br />

Pickups <strong>from</strong> the northern beaches cost A$30 (US$20) extra for bushwalks, but<br />

are included in the price for “go anywhere” charters. The charter prices compare<br />

favorably to a regular Daintree four-wheel-drive tour if there’s three or more of<br />

you—and you get a tailored itinerary, Pete’s knowledge, and the vehicle all to<br />

yourself. He often takes charter customers inland to Outback gold mining ghost<br />

towns, or north to tiny Cooktown, which boasts an excellent museum devoted<br />

to <strong>Australia</strong>’s “discoverer,” Captain James Cook. If you have 2 days, he can take<br />

you further west to see Aboriginal rock art and stay at an upscale tented camp,<br />

or to the Undara Lava Tubes, which have been hollowed <strong>from</strong> rock by lava flows.<br />

Other established operators are Trek North Safaris (& 07/4051 4328) and<br />

BTS <strong>To</strong>urs (& 07/4099 5665). As is the case in most tourist hot spots, some<br />

tour operators battle fiercely to pay tour desks the highest commission to recommend<br />

their tours, even though those tours may not necessarily be the best for<br />

your needs. Take tour desks’ recommendations with a grain of salt, and ask other<br />

travelers for their recommendations. You may not see too much wildlife, as rainforest<br />

animals are shy, camouflaged, nocturnal, or all three! Most four-wheeldrive<br />

tours will pick you up in Port Douglas at no charge, although there is<br />

usually a small fee <strong>from</strong> Cairns and the northern beaches. Floods and swollen<br />

creeks can quash your plans to explore the Daintree in the Wet Season<br />

(Dec–Mar or Apr), so keep your plans flexible.<br />

If your chosen safari does not visit Mossman Gorge, 21km (12 miles) northwest<br />

of Port Douglas near the sugar town of Mossman; try to get there on your<br />

own. The gushing river tumbling over boulders, and the short forest walks are<br />

magical. (Don’t climb on the rocks or enter the river, as strong currents are dangerous<br />

and have claimed at least one life in recent years).<br />

Most 4WD Daintree tours include a 1-hour cruise on the Daintree River,<br />

but if yours doesn’t, or you want more time on the river, cruises are available on<br />

a variety of boats, <strong>from</strong> open-sided “river trains” to small fishing boats. One of<br />

the best is offered by Dan Irby’s Mangrove Adventures Finds (& 07/4090<br />

7017; www.mangroveadven.citysearch.com.au for bookings), whose small open<br />

boat can get up side creeks the bigger boats can’t. Originally <strong>from</strong> Oklahoma,<br />

Dan has been in <strong>Australia</strong> for 30 years, and is extremely knowledgeable about<br />

Moments The Land that Time Forgot<br />

The World Heritage–listed Daintree Rainforest has remained largely<br />

unchanged over the past 110 million years. It is home to rare plants that<br />

provide key links in the evolution story. In the 140,000-acre Daintree<br />

National Park you will find cycads, dinosaur trees, fan palms, giant strangler<br />

figs, and epiphytes like the basket fern, staghorn, and elkhorn. Nighttime<br />

croc-spotting tours on the Daintree River vie for popularity with early<br />

morning cruises to see the rich bird life. Pythons, lizards, frogs, and electric<br />

blue Ulysses butterflies attract photographers, and sport fishermen<br />

come here to do battle with the big barramundi.

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