The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

More documents

Recommendations

Info

The street cuts down almost as far as the Záttere, but for the direct route to the mouth of the Canal Grande you turn left along Calle Nuova a Sant’Agnese, one of the district’s main shopping streets. dorsoduro | 100 Eastern Dorsoduro The Cini and Guggenheim collections Just before the Rio San Vio you pass the Palazzo Cini (no. 864), once the home of the industrialist Vittorio Cini (founder of the Fondazione Cini on San Giorgio Maggiore) and now occupied by the Galleria di Palazzo Cini. Sadly, the Cini’s private collection of Tuscan paintings, including pieces by Bernardo Daddi, Filippo Lippi, Piero di Cosimo and Pontormo, is no longer on permanent display, although special exhibitions are sometimes held here – keep an eye out for posters or check the Cini website (wwww.cini.it). Over the water lies the Campo San Vio, a fine platform from which to watch the traffic on the Canal Grande. The reason this little square opens out onto the water is that the houses on that side were demolished in order to make it easier for the doge and his entourage to disembark for the annual thanksgiving service in the church of saints Vito and Modesto (contracted to Vio in Venetian); held on the saints’ joint feast day, June 15, the service commemorated the defeat of the Bajamonte Tiepolo revolt (see p.391), which occurred on June 15, 1310. The church itself was demolished in 1813; the walls of the small chapel that took its place are encrusted with stone fragments taken from the Tiepolo palazzo, which was destroyed in punishment for their treason. From here you just follow your nose for the Peggy Guggenheim Collection (10am–6pm; closed Tues; e10; wwww.guggenheim-venice.it), installed in the peculiarly modernistic fragment of the quarter-built Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, a bit further down the Canal Grande. In the early years of the twentieth century the leading lights of the Futurist movement came here for the parties thrown by the dotty Marchesa Casati, who was fond of stunts like setting wild cats and apes loose in the palazzo garden, among plants sprayed lilac for the occasion. Peggy Guggenheim, a considerably more discerning patron of the arts, moved into the palace in 1949; since her death in 1979 the Guggenheim Foundation has looked after the administration of the place, and has turned her private collection into one of the city’s glossiest museums – and the second most popular after the Accademia. It’s a small but generally top-quality assembly of twentieth-century art, touching on most of the major modern movements, and the Guggenheim is also a prime venue for touring shows, which usually make the entrance fee seem less inflated. In the permanent collection the core pieces include Brancusi’s Bird in Space and Maestra, De Chirico’s Red Tower and Nostalgia of the Poet, Max Ernst’s Robing of the Bride (Guggenheim was married to Ernst in the 1940s), some of Joseph Cornell’s boxes, sculpture by Laurens and Lipchitz, and works by Malevich and Schwitters; other artists include Picasso, Braque, Chagall, Pollock, Duchamp, Giacometti, Picabia and Magritte. Marino Marini’s Angel of the Citadel, out on the terrace, flaunts his erection at the passing canal traffic; more decorous pieces by Giacometti, Moore, Paolozzi and others are planted in the garden, surrounding Peggy Guggenheim’s burial place. The Salute and around After the wrought iron and greenery of the tiny Campo Barbaro (from where you can see the Gothic back half of the Palazzo Dario – see p.204) you’ll come to the Gothic church of San Gregorio (now a restoration centre). The flank of the
dorsoduro Eastern Dorsoduro | Santa Maria della Salute Salute is visible at the other end, but this preview doesn’t quite prepare you for the mountain of white stone that confronts you when you emerge from the tunnel. In 1630–31 Venice was devastated by a plague that exterminated nearly 95,000 of the lagoon’s population – one person in three. In October 1630 the Senate decreed that a new church would be dedicated to Mary if the city were saved, and the result was the Salute (daily 9am–noon & 3–6.30pm; closes 5.30pm in winter) – salute meaning “health” and “salvation” – or Santa Maria della Salute, to use its full title. 101
Page 1 and 2:
ROUGHGUIDES THE ROUGH GUIDE to Veni
Page 3:
The Rough Guide to Venice & the Ven
Page 6 and 7:
| IntRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN
Page 8 and 9:
| INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
Page 10 and 11:
| INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
Page 12 and 13:
| INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHen
Page 14 and 15:
| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The G
Page 16 and 17:
| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | Ciche
Page 18 and 19:
| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The M
Page 20 and 21:
Basics Getting there ..............
Page 22 and 23:
BASICS | Getting there 20 Christmas
Page 24 and 25:
BASICS | Getting there 22 if you tr
Page 26 and 27:
BASICS | The media Airlines in Aust
Page 28 and 29:
BASICS | Travel essentials of model
Page 30 and 31:
BASICS | Travel essentials 28 probl
Page 32 and 33:
BASICS | Travel essentials 30 and i
Page 34 and 35:
BASICS | Travel essentials includin
Page 36 and 37:
The City Venice: the practicalities
Page 38 and 39:
36 venice: the Practicalities | San
Page 40 and 41:
38 venice: the Practicalities | Wat
Page 42 and 43:
7.50pm); San Marcuola-Fondaco dei T
Page 44 and 45:
Frari Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 1-6pm; e
Page 46 and 47:
san marco The Piazza | 44
Page 48 and 49:
san marco | The Piazza 46 orchard o
Page 50 and 51:
san marco | The Basilica di San Mar
Page 52 and 53: san marco | 50 The Basilica di San
Page 62 and 63: san marco | The Palazzo Ducale 60 A
Page 64 and 65: The Government of Venice san marco
Page 66 and 67: in as to how much of the building i
Page 68 and 69: san marco | 66 The Palazzo Ducale o
Page 70 and 71: san marco | 68 The Palazzo Ducale o
Page 72 and 73: san marco | The Campanile and the C
Page 74 and 75: The Bicentenary Siege san marco | T
Page 76 and 77: san marco | 74 The Procuratie a dev
Page 78 and 79: san marco | The Piazzetta and the M
Page 80 and 81: san marco | North of the Piazza him
Page 82 and 83: san marco | 80 North of the Piazza
Page 88 and 89: san marco West of the Piazza | 86
Page 90 and 91: The 1996 Fenice fire san marco | 88
Page 92 and 93: san marco | West of the Piazza 90
Page 94 and 95: san marco | 92 West of the Piazza b
Page 96 and 97: 2 Dorsoduro dorsoduro There | were
Page 98 and 99: dorsoduro | 96 The Accademia - but
Page 100 and 101: dorsoduro | 98 The Accademia 1560s)
Page 104 and 105: dorsoduro | 102 Eastern Dorsoduro R
Page 106 and 107: dorsoduro | 104 The Záttere and we
Page 108 and 109: dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro by o
Page 110 and 111: dorsoduro | 108 Northern Dorsoduro
Page 112 and 113: dorsoduro | 110 Northern Dorsoduro
Page 114 and 115: dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro Gian
Page 116 and 117: Carnevale John Evelyn wrote of the
Page 118 and 119: The Regata Storica Held on the firs
Page 120 and 121: San Polo and Santa Croce | From the
Page 126 and 127: San Polo and Santa Croce | 120 From
Page 132 and 133: Aldus Manutius San Polo and Santa C
Page 136 and 137: Christ by Vittoria, and a Virgin an
Page 144 and 145: 4 Cannaregio | From the train stati
Page 146 and 147: Cannaregio | From the train station
Page 148 and 149: paintings in Venice that is compara
Page 150 and 151: Cannaregio The Ghetto | 144 The Gh
Page 152 and 153:
Cannaregio | 146 Northern Cannaregi
Page 154 and 155:
to the chapel containing Tintoretto
Page 156 and 157:
Cannaregio | 150 Southern and easte
Page 158 and 159:
city. Those who haven’t acquired
Page 160 and 161:
Cannaregio Southern and eastern Can
Page 162 and 163:
The Fondamente Nove The long waterf
Page 164 and 165:
5 Central Castello central castello
Page 166 and 167:
central castello Campo Santi Giovan
Page 168 and 169:
central castello | 162 Campo Santi
Page 170 and 171:
Page 172 and 173:
Page 174 and 175:
order the square, the most impressi
Page 176 and 177:
central castello | 170 Campo Santa
Page 178 and 179:
central castello | 172 San Zaccaria
Page 180 and 181:
central castello | 174 San Zaccaria
Page 182 and 183:
central castello | San Zaccaria to
Page 184 and 185:
eastern castello | San Francesco de
Page 186 and 187:
eastern castello | 180 San Francesc
Page 188 and 189:
white dog in the final one. The sce
Page 190 and 191:
Follow the fondamenta south from Sa
Page 192 and 193:
a less precisely classical storey -
Page 194 and 195:
statue of Admiral Angelo Emo (1792)
Page 196 and 197:
eastern castello | Beyond the Arsen
Page 198 and 199:
the canal grande | The Left Bank 19
Page 200 and 201:
the canal grande The Left Bank | 19
Page 202 and 203:
the canal grande | 196 The Left Ban
Page 204 and 205:
the canal grande | The Right Bank s
Page 206 and 207:
the canal grande | 200 The Right Ba
Page 208 and 209:
From the Ca’ Rezzonico to the Dog
Page 210 and 211:
the canal grande | The Right Bank r
Page 212 and 213:
the northern islands San Michele |
Page 214 and 215:
the highest funeral honour the city
Page 216 and 217:
Venetian glass the northern islands
Page 218 and 219:
the northern islands | 212 Burano a
Page 220 and 221:
the northern islands | Torcello the
Page 222 and 223:
Saint Fosca, brought to Torcello fr
Page 224 and 225:
draws thousands of people to its be
Page 226 and 227:
gatekeeper might do the trick if he
Page 228 and 229:
the southern islands | La Giudecca
Page 230 and 231:
Damiano, having been left to crumbl
Page 232 and 233:
and southern ends of the island - t
Page 234 and 235:
the southern islands | 228 From the
Page 236 and 237:
the southern islands | 230 San Lazz
Page 238 and 239:
can now be seen. Lazzaretto Vecchio
Page 240 and 241:
Listings 10 Accommodation 235-248 1
Page 242 and 243:
236 accommodation | Hotels Hotels V
Page 244 and 245:
238 accommodation | Hotels Santo St
Page 246 and 247:
240 accommodation | Hotels San Cass
Page 248 and 249:
the continent - provided you book a
Page 250 and 251:
244 accommodation | Hotels Sant’A
Page 252 and 253:
accommodation Bed & Breakfast • S
Page 254 and 255:
per night on average. They take boo
Page 256 and 257:
isn’t a Venetian speciality. Take
Page 258 and 259:
252 Eating and drinking | Restauran
Page 260 and 261:
Eating and drinking | Restaurants 2
Page 262 and 263:
256 Eating and drinking | Restauran
Page 264 and 265:
Methods and materials One of the at
Page 266 and 267:
h Ca’ Pèsaro The floor plan Vene
Page 268 and 269:
evening & all Tues. Moderate. Da Re
Page 270 and 271:
Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
Page 272 and 273:
Late-night drinking The following p
Page 274 and 275:
Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
Page 276 and 277:
Eating and drinking Cafés, pasticc
Page 278 and 279:
Santa Margherita, Campiello dell’
Page 280 and 281:
nightlife and the arts Music and th
Page 282 and 283:
joint called Club Malvasia Vecchia
Page 284 and 285:
nightlife and the arts | Other exhi
Page 286 and 287:
Margherita 2928. Mon-Fri 8am-1pm &
Page 288 and 289:
shopping Glass • Jewellery | boat
Page 290 and 291:
shopping | Masks Ca’ Macana 280
Page 292 and 293:
an interesting line in personalized
Page 294 and 295:
Directory | 284 Giovanni e Paolo, t
Page 297 and 298:
The Veneto 287
Page 299 and 300:
The Veneto: practicalities The admi
Page 301 and 302:
ments - which sometimes means no se
Page 303 and 304:
L Padua and the southern Veneto Sum
Page 305 and 306:
Hoi polloi can get to Malcontenta f
Page 307 and 308:
and the dining room has a ceiling f
Page 309 and 310:
of the twelfth century, when it bec
Page 311 and 312:
This is the nearest campsite to Pad
Page 313 and 314:
century works, including four myste
Page 315 and 316:
Menabuoi have survived. Most of the
Page 317 and 318:
Monument to Gattamelata decorated c
Page 319 and 320:
and 1577, they are the most importa
Page 321 and 322:
ut the vast Saturday market, groups
Page 323 and 324:
season’s events can be obtained f
Page 325 and 326:
From the train station, the route t
Page 327 and 328:
train ride from Monsélice (9 daily
Page 329 and 330:
Walls of Montagnana Practicalities
Page 331 and 332:
is La Rotonda (April-Oct daily 8am-
Page 333 and 334:
A few of these villas are of intere
Page 335 and 336:
Bèrico; the downside is that it’
Page 337 and 338:
Andrea Palladio Born in Padua in 15
Page 339 and 340:
finished until the second decade of
Page 341 and 342:
Palladio’s rugged Palazzo Thiene,
Page 343 and 344:
ers in 899 and then by earthquakes
Page 345 and 346:
in Rome in the service of the papac
Page 347 and 348:
Montecchio’s other attractions, a
Page 349 and 350:
From the main train station (Verona
Page 351 and 352:
Vicenza, Verona and around | Verona
Page 353 and 354:
Combined tickets A biglietto unico,
Page 355 and 356:
in a room off the courtyard of the
Page 357 and 358:
loody feuds being commonplace (the
Page 359 and 360:
Its large rose window, representing
Page 361 and 362:
For a non-alcoholic indulgence, sit
Page 363 and 364:
Listings American Express c/o H.P.T
Page 365 and 366:
Treviso today is a brisk commercial
Page 367 and 368:
dressing stone led in the thirteent
Page 369 and 370:
Agnes and John by Tomaso himself, o
Page 371 and 372:
(t0422.411.661, wwww.hotelcarlton.i
Page 373 and 374:
at Borgo Treviso 73, opposite the t
Page 375 and 376:
century mistakes. It’s better kno
Page 377 and 378:
the bridge in 1948). The river was
Page 379 and 380:
The Town Maróstica was run by the
Page 381 and 382:
The Gipsoteca and Casa Canova The p
Page 383 and 384:
The Town The main road into town fr
Page 385 and 386:
Venetians who were then beginning t
Page 387 and 388:
to some it was Castaldi rather than
Page 389 and 390:
Cima exemplifies the conservative s
Page 391 and 392:
Oct-April 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm; e
Page 393 and 394:
(named after a group of partisans e
Page 395 and 396:
Contexts 385
Page 397 and 398:
A brief history of Venice In the mi
Page 399 and 400:
Antonio Venier 1382-1400 Michele St
Page 401 and 402:
The Genoese Wars The enmities creat
Page 403 and 404:
and the new ruler of Milan, Frances
Page 405 and 406:
No sooner was the Interdict out of
Page 407 and 408:
works of art. The Austrians’ urba
Page 409 and 410:
airport and Mestre. Apologists for
Page 411 and 412:
Greco (1545-1614) worked with the M
Page 413 and 414:
High Renaissance painting While the
Page 415 and 416:
Malipiero, is pictorially flat and
Page 417 and 418:
An outline of Venetian architecture
Page 419 and 420:
San Zanipolo (Dominican) and the Fr
Page 421 and 422:
death of Bartolomeo Bon in 1529, a
Page 423 and 424:
church of this period - San Simeone
Page 425 and 426:
ebuilt, reintroducing industry and
Page 427 and 428:
have been extended within a grid of
Page 429 and 430:
inside and excreting white crusts o
Page 431 and 432:
Romanticism. Lots of passion and pa
Page 433 and 434:
choice of pictures are exemplary. A
Page 435 and 436:
to the history of Venice between th
Page 437 and 438:
series of itineraries of the city f
Page 439 and 440:
Language 429
Page 441 and 442:
Language Although it’s not uncomm
Page 443 and 444:
Numbers 1 uno 2 due 3 tre 4 quattro
Page 445 and 446:
In the restaurant A table I’d lik
Page 447 and 448:
Pasta Cannelloni Farfalle Fettucine
Page 449 and 450:
Pecorino Provolone Ricotta Strong-t
Page 451 and 452:
Glossary of Italian words Italian w
Page 453 and 454:
Travel store
Page 455:
Travel store
Page 462 and 463:
A Rough Guide to Rough Guides Publi
Page 464 and 465:
Acknowledgements and readers’ let
Page 466 and 467:
index | 456 Campo Santi Giovanni e
Page 468 and 469:
index | 458 Luzzo, Lorenzo.........
Page 470 and 471:
index | 460 Pisanello.......152, 34
Page 472 and 473:
index | 462 Tiepolo, Doge Giacomo..
Page 474:
Map symbols maps are listed in the
show all

The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles

Delete template?

Save as template?