The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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The City Venice: the practicalities 35-42 1 San Marco 43-93 2 Dorsoduro 94-112 3 San Polo and Santa Croce 113-137 4 Cannaregio 138-157 5 Central Castello 158-176 6 Eastern Castello 177-190 7 The Canal Grande 191-204 8 The Northern Islands 205-216 9 The Southern Islands 217-232 34
Venice: the practicalities The historic centre of Venice is made up of 118 islands, most of which began life as a micro-community, each with a parish church or two, and a square for public meetings. Though many Venetians maintain a strong attachment to their particular part of the city, the autonomy of these parishes has been eroded since the days when traffic between them moved by water. Some 400 bridges now tie the islands together, forming an amalgamation that’s divided into six large administrative districts known as sestieri, three on each side of the Canal Grande. The sestiere of San Marco is the zone where the majority of the essential sights are clustered, and is accordingly the most expensive and most crowded district of the city. On the east it’s bordered by Castello, and on the north by Cannaregio – both of which become more residential, and poorer and quieter, the further you go from San Marco. On the other bank the largest of the sestieri is Dorsoduro, which stretches from the fashionable quarter at the tip of the Canal Grande, south of the Accademia gallery, to the docks in the west. Santa Croce, named after a now demolished church, roughly follows the curve of the Canal Grande from Piazzale Roma to a point just short of the Rialto, where it joins the commercially most active of the districts on this bank – San Polo. venice: the Practicalities | Points of arrival Millions of visitors pour into Venice each year, most of them funnelled through Venice’s small Marco Polo airport, on the outskirts of Venice itself, or through Treviso, 30km inland. Arriving by train and coach is painless – but driving into Venice is unmitigated hell in summer. By air Most scheduled flights and some charters arrive at the recently enlarged and smartened Marco Polo, around 7km north of Venice, on the edge of the lagoon. If you’re on a package holiday the cost of transport to the city centre, either by land or by water, might already be covered. If it’s not, the most inexpensive alternative is to take one of the two road-going bus services to the terminal at Piazzale Roma: the ATVO (Azienda Trasporti Veneto Orientale) coach, which departs every half-hour and takes around twenty minutes (e3), or the ACTV (Azienda del Consorzio Trasporti Veneziano; wwww.actv.it) bus #5/5D, which is equally frequent, usually takes just five minutes longer (it’s a local bus service, so it picks up and puts down passengers between the airport and Piazzale Roma), and costs e2. If you’d prefer to approach the city by water, you could take one of the Alilaguna waterbuses, which operate on three routes, and all take about an hour to reach San Marco: Murano (e6) – Lido – Arsenale – San Marco – Záttere (all e12; service hourly 6.15am– 12.15am); Murano – Fondamente Nove (e6) – Lido – San Zaccaria – San Marco (hourly 9.45am–11.45pm); and directly to Addresses in Venice Within each sestiere the buildings are numbered in a sequence that makes sense solely to the functionaries of the post office – it’s possible to find houses facing each other which have numbers separated by hundreds. This is because, in essence, the numbering system tends to follow walls rather than streets: thus if a small alleyway intersects with a major one the numbering on the major alley may well continue round the corner and down the minor alleyway before turning around to flow back towards the main drag. For this reason Venetian addresses are conventionally written as the street name followed by the sestiere followed by the number – eg Calle Vallaresso, San Marco 1312. Sometimes, though, the sestiere is placed before the street, and sometimes the street is omitted altogether, which makes the place impossible to find unless you’re in the know. 35
Page 1 and 2: ROUGHGUIDES THE ROUGH GUIDE to Veni
Page 3: The Rough Guide to Venice & the Ven
Page 6 and 7: | IntRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN
Page 8 and 9: | INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
Page 10 and 11: | INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
Page 12 and 13: | INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHen
Page 14 and 15: | consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The G
Page 16 and 17: | consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | Ciche
Page 18 and 19: | consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The M
Page 20 and 21: Basics Getting there ..............
Page 22 and 23: BASICS | Getting there 20 Christmas
Page 24 and 25: BASICS | Getting there 22 if you tr
Page 26 and 27: BASICS | The media Airlines in Aust
Page 28 and 29: BASICS | Travel essentials of model
Page 30 and 31: BASICS | Travel essentials 28 probl
Page 32 and 33: BASICS | Travel essentials 30 and i
Page 34 and 35: BASICS | Travel essentials includin
Page 38 and 39: 36 venice: the Practicalities | San
Page 40 and 41: 38 venice: the Practicalities | Wat
Page 42 and 43: 7.50pm); San Marcuola-Fondaco dei T
Page 44 and 45: Frari Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 1-6pm; e
Page 46 and 47: san marco The Piazza | 44
Page 48 and 49: san marco | The Piazza 46 orchard o
Page 50 and 51: san marco | The Basilica di San Mar
Page 52 and 53: san marco | 50 The Basilica di San
Page 62 and 63: san marco | The Palazzo Ducale 60 A
Page 64 and 65: The Government of Venice san marco
Page 66 and 67: in as to how much of the building i
Page 68 and 69: san marco | 66 The Palazzo Ducale o
Page 70 and 71: san marco | 68 The Palazzo Ducale o
Page 72 and 73: san marco | The Campanile and the C
Page 74 and 75: The Bicentenary Siege san marco | T
Page 76 and 77: san marco | 74 The Procuratie a dev
Page 78 and 79: san marco | The Piazzetta and the M
Page 80 and 81: san marco | North of the Piazza him
Page 82 and 83: san marco | 80 North of the Piazza
Page 84 and 85: san marco | 82 North of the Piazza
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san marco | 84 North of the Piazza
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san marco West of the Piazza | 86
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The 1996 Fenice fire san marco | 88
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san marco | West of the Piazza 90
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san marco | 92 West of the Piazza b
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2 Dorsoduro dorsoduro There | were
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dorsoduro | 96 The Accademia - but
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dorsoduro | 98 The Accademia 1560s)
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The street cuts down almost as far
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dorsoduro | 102 Eastern Dorsoduro R
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dorsoduro | 104 The Záttere and we
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dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro by o
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dorsoduro | 108 Northern Dorsoduro
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dorsoduro | 110 Northern Dorsoduro
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dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro Gian
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Carnevale John Evelyn wrote of the
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The Regata Storica Held on the firs
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San Polo and Santa Croce | From the
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San Polo and Santa Croce | 120 From
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Aldus Manutius San Polo and Santa C
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Christ by Vittoria, and a Virgin an
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4 Cannaregio | From the train stati
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Cannaregio | From the train station
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paintings in Venice that is compara
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Cannaregio The Ghetto | 144 The Gh
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Cannaregio | 146 Northern Cannaregi
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to the chapel containing Tintoretto
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Cannaregio | 150 Southern and easte
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city. Those who haven’t acquired
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Cannaregio Southern and eastern Can
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The Fondamente Nove The long waterf
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5 Central Castello central castello
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central castello Campo Santi Giovan
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central castello | 162 Campo Santi
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order the square, the most impressi
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central castello | 170 Campo Santa
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central castello | 172 San Zaccaria
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central castello | 174 San Zaccaria
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central castello | San Zaccaria to
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eastern castello | San Francesco de
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eastern castello | 180 San Francesc
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white dog in the final one. The sce
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Follow the fondamenta south from Sa
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a less precisely classical storey -
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statue of Admiral Angelo Emo (1792)
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eastern castello | Beyond the Arsen
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the canal grande | The Left Bank 19
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the canal grande The Left Bank | 19
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the canal grande | 196 The Left Ban
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the canal grande | The Right Bank s
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the canal grande | 200 The Right Ba
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From the Ca’ Rezzonico to the Dog
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the canal grande | The Right Bank r
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the northern islands San Michele |
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the highest funeral honour the city
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Venetian glass the northern islands
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the northern islands | 212 Burano a
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the northern islands | Torcello the
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Saint Fosca, brought to Torcello fr
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draws thousands of people to its be
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gatekeeper might do the trick if he
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the southern islands | La Giudecca
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Damiano, having been left to crumbl
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and southern ends of the island - t
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the southern islands | 228 From the
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the southern islands | 230 San Lazz
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can now be seen. Lazzaretto Vecchio
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Listings 10 Accommodation 235-248 1
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236 accommodation | Hotels Hotels V
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238 accommodation | Hotels Santo St
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240 accommodation | Hotels San Cass
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the continent - provided you book a
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244 accommodation | Hotels Sant’A
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accommodation Bed & Breakfast • S
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per night on average. They take boo
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isn’t a Venetian speciality. Take
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252 Eating and drinking | Restauran
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Eating and drinking | Restaurants 2
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256 Eating and drinking | Restauran
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Methods and materials One of the at
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h Ca’ Pèsaro The floor plan Vene
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evening & all Tues. Moderate. Da Re
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Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
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Late-night drinking The following p
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Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
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Eating and drinking Cafés, pasticc
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Santa Margherita, Campiello dell’
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nightlife and the arts Music and th
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joint called Club Malvasia Vecchia
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nightlife and the arts | Other exhi
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Margherita 2928. Mon-Fri 8am-1pm &
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shopping Glass • Jewellery | boat
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shopping | Masks Ca’ Macana 280
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an interesting line in personalized
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Directory | 284 Giovanni e Paolo, t
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The Veneto 287
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The Veneto: practicalities The admi
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ments - which sometimes means no se
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L Padua and the southern Veneto Sum
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Hoi polloi can get to Malcontenta f
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and the dining room has a ceiling f
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of the twelfth century, when it bec
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This is the nearest campsite to Pad
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century works, including four myste
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Menabuoi have survived. Most of the
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Monument to Gattamelata decorated c
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and 1577, they are the most importa
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ut the vast Saturday market, groups
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season’s events can be obtained f
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From the train station, the route t
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train ride from Monsélice (9 daily
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Walls of Montagnana Practicalities
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is La Rotonda (April-Oct daily 8am-
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A few of these villas are of intere
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Bèrico; the downside is that it’
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Andrea Palladio Born in Padua in 15
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finished until the second decade of
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Palladio’s rugged Palazzo Thiene,
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ers in 899 and then by earthquakes
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in Rome in the service of the papac
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Montecchio’s other attractions, a
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From the main train station (Verona
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Vicenza, Verona and around | Verona
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Combined tickets A biglietto unico,
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in a room off the courtyard of the
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loody feuds being commonplace (the
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Its large rose window, representing
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For a non-alcoholic indulgence, sit
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Listings American Express c/o H.P.T
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Treviso today is a brisk commercial
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dressing stone led in the thirteent
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Agnes and John by Tomaso himself, o
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(t0422.411.661, wwww.hotelcarlton.i
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at Borgo Treviso 73, opposite the t
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century mistakes. It’s better kno
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the bridge in 1948). The river was
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The Town Maróstica was run by the
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The Gipsoteca and Casa Canova The p
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The Town The main road into town fr
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Venetians who were then beginning t
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to some it was Castaldi rather than
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Cima exemplifies the conservative s
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Oct-April 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm; e
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(named after a group of partisans e
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Contexts 385
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A brief history of Venice In the mi
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Antonio Venier 1382-1400 Michele St
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The Genoese Wars The enmities creat
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and the new ruler of Milan, Frances
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No sooner was the Interdict out of
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works of art. The Austrians’ urba
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airport and Mestre. Apologists for
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Greco (1545-1614) worked with the M
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High Renaissance painting While the
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Malipiero, is pictorially flat and
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An outline of Venetian architecture
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San Zanipolo (Dominican) and the Fr
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death of Bartolomeo Bon in 1529, a
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church of this period - San Simeone
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ebuilt, reintroducing industry and
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have been extended within a grid of
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inside and excreting white crusts o
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Romanticism. Lots of passion and pa
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choice of pictures are exemplary. A
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to the history of Venice between th
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series of itineraries of the city f
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Language 429
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Language Although it’s not uncomm
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Numbers 1 uno 2 due 3 tre 4 quattro
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In the restaurant A table I’d lik
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Pasta Cannelloni Farfalle Fettucine
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Pecorino Provolone Ricotta Strong-t
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Glossary of Italian words Italian w
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Travel store
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Travel store
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A Rough Guide to Rough Guides Publi
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Acknowledgements and readers’ let
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index | 456 Campo Santi Giovanni e
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index | 458 Luzzo, Lorenzo.........
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index | 460 Pisanello.......152, 34
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index | 462 Tiepolo, Doge Giacomo..
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Map symbols maps are listed in the
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The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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