The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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Venetian specialities Antipasti e Primi Acciughe marinate Bigoli in salsa Brodetto Castraura Granseola alla Veneziana Pasta e fasioi San Prosciutto Daniele Risotto di mare Risotto di cape Risotto alla sbirraglia Risotto alla trevigiana Sopa de peoci Marinated anchovies with onions Spaghetti with butter, onions and sardines Mixed fish soup, often with tomatoes and garlic Artichoke hearts Crab cooked with oil, parsley and lemon Pasta and beans The best-quality prosciutto Mixed seafood risotto Risotto with clams and shellfish Risotto with chicken, vegetables and ham Risotto with butter, onions and chicory Mussel soup with garlic and parsley Secondi Anguilla alla Veneziana Baccalà mantecato Fegato veneziana Peoci salati Risi e bisi Sarde in saor Seppie in nero Seppioline nere Dolci Frittole alla Veneziana Tiramisù Eel cooked with lemon and tuna Salt cod simmered in milk Sliced calf liver cooked in olive oil with onion Mussels with parsley and garlic Rice and peas, with parmesan and ham Marinated sardines Squid cooked in its ink Baby cuttlefish cooked in its ink Rum- and aniseflavoured fritters filled with pine nuts, raisins and candied fruit Dessert of layered chocolate and cream, flavoured with rum and coffee LANGUAGE Menu glossary | 440
Glossary of Italian words Italian words Anfiteatro Amphitheatre. Autostazione Bus station. Autostrada Motorway. Belvedere A lookout point. Cappella Chapel. Castello Castle. Centro Centre. Chiesa Church. Comune An administrative area; also, the local council or the town hall. Corso Avenue/boulevard. Duomo/cattedrale Cathedral. Entrata Entrance. Festa Festival, carnival. Fiume River. Lago Lake. Mare Sea. Mercato Market. Municipio Town Hall. Palazzo Palace, mansion or block (of flats). Venetian words Calle Main alleyway. Campo Square, generally named after a church. Campiello Small square. Corte Courtyard. Fondaco (or Fontego) Warehouse/hostel used by foreign traders. Fondamenta Pavement along a stretch of water. Piscina Former site of a pool. Punta Point, the extremity of an island. Ramo Small side street. Parco Park. Passeggiata The customary early-evening walk. Piazza Square. Ponte Bridge. Santuario Sanctuary. Senso unico One-way street. Sottopassaggio Subway. Spiaggia Beach. Stazione Station. Stazione ferroviaria Train station. Stazione maríttima Ferry terminal. Strada Road/street. Teatro Theatre. Tempio Temple. Tondo Circular painting or carving. Torre Tower. Traghetto Ferry. Uscita Exit. Via Road. Rio (pl. Rii) Canal. Rio Terrà (or terà) Infilled canal. Riva A major fondamenta. Ruga Usually a main shopping street. Sacca Inlet. Salizzada (or salizada) Main street of a parish. Means “paved street” – originally only main thoroughfares were paved. Sottoportico (or sottoportego) Small alleyway running under a building. LANGUAGE Glossary of Italian words | 441
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ROUGHGUIDES THE ROUGH GUIDE to Veni
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The Rough Guide to Venice & the Ven
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| IntRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHen
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The G
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | Ciche
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The M
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Basics Getting there ..............
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BASICS | Getting there 20 Christmas
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BASICS | Getting there 22 if you tr
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BASICS | The media Airlines in Aust
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BASICS | Travel essentials of model
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BASICS | Travel essentials 28 probl
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BASICS | Travel essentials 30 and i
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BASICS | Travel essentials includin
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The City Venice: the practicalities
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36 venice: the Practicalities | San
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38 venice: the Practicalities | Wat
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7.50pm); San Marcuola-Fondaco dei T
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Frari Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 1-6pm; e
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san marco The Piazza | 44
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san marco | The Piazza 46 orchard o
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san marco | The Basilica di San Mar
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san marco | 50 The Basilica di San
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san marco | The Palazzo Ducale 60 A
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The Government of Venice san marco
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in as to how much of the building i
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san marco | 66 The Palazzo Ducale o
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san marco | 68 The Palazzo Ducale o
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san marco | The Campanile and the C
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The Bicentenary Siege san marco | T
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san marco | 74 The Procuratie a dev
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san marco | The Piazzetta and the M
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san marco | North of the Piazza him
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san marco | 80 North of the Piazza
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san marco West of the Piazza | 86
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The 1996 Fenice fire san marco | 88
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san marco | West of the Piazza 90
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san marco | 92 West of the Piazza b
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2 Dorsoduro dorsoduro There | were
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dorsoduro | 96 The Accademia - but
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dorsoduro | 98 The Accademia 1560s)
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The street cuts down almost as far
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dorsoduro | 102 Eastern Dorsoduro R
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dorsoduro | 104 The Záttere and we
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dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro by o
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dorsoduro | 108 Northern Dorsoduro
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dorsoduro | 110 Northern Dorsoduro
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dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro Gian
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Carnevale John Evelyn wrote of the
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The Regata Storica Held on the firs
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San Polo and Santa Croce | From the
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San Polo and Santa Croce | 120 From
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Aldus Manutius San Polo and Santa C
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Christ by Vittoria, and a Virgin an
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4 Cannaregio | From the train stati
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Cannaregio | From the train station
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paintings in Venice that is compara
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Cannaregio The Ghetto | 144 The Gh
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Cannaregio | 146 Northern Cannaregi
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to the chapel containing Tintoretto
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Cannaregio | 150 Southern and easte
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city. Those who haven’t acquired
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Cannaregio Southern and eastern Can
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The Fondamente Nove The long waterf
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5 Central Castello central castello
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central castello Campo Santi Giovan
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central castello | 162 Campo Santi
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order the square, the most impressi
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central castello | 170 Campo Santa
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central castello | 172 San Zaccaria
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central castello | 174 San Zaccaria
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central castello | San Zaccaria to
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eastern castello | San Francesco de
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eastern castello | 180 San Francesc
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white dog in the final one. The sce
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Follow the fondamenta south from Sa
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a less precisely classical storey -
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statue of Admiral Angelo Emo (1792)
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eastern castello | Beyond the Arsen
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the canal grande | The Left Bank 19
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the canal grande The Left Bank | 19
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the canal grande | 196 The Left Ban
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the canal grande | The Right Bank s
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the canal grande | 200 The Right Ba
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From the Ca’ Rezzonico to the Dog
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the canal grande | The Right Bank r
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the northern islands San Michele |
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the highest funeral honour the city
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Venetian glass the northern islands
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the northern islands | 212 Burano a
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the northern islands | Torcello the
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Saint Fosca, brought to Torcello fr
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draws thousands of people to its be
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gatekeeper might do the trick if he
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the southern islands | La Giudecca
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Damiano, having been left to crumbl
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and southern ends of the island - t
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the southern islands | 228 From the
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the southern islands | 230 San Lazz
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can now be seen. Lazzaretto Vecchio
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Listings 10 Accommodation 235-248 1
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236 accommodation | Hotels Hotels V
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238 accommodation | Hotels Santo St
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240 accommodation | Hotels San Cass
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the continent - provided you book a
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244 accommodation | Hotels Sant’A
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accommodation Bed & Breakfast • S
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per night on average. They take boo
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isn’t a Venetian speciality. Take
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252 Eating and drinking | Restauran
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Eating and drinking | Restaurants 2
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256 Eating and drinking | Restauran
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Methods and materials One of the at
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h Ca’ Pèsaro The floor plan Vene
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evening & all Tues. Moderate. Da Re
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Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
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Late-night drinking The following p
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Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
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Eating and drinking Cafés, pasticc
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Santa Margherita, Campiello dell’
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nightlife and the arts Music and th
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joint called Club Malvasia Vecchia
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nightlife and the arts | Other exhi
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Margherita 2928. Mon-Fri 8am-1pm &
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shopping Glass • Jewellery | boat
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shopping | Masks Ca’ Macana 280
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an interesting line in personalized
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Directory | 284 Giovanni e Paolo, t
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The Veneto 287
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The Veneto: practicalities The admi
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ments - which sometimes means no se
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L Padua and the southern Veneto Sum
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Hoi polloi can get to Malcontenta f
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and the dining room has a ceiling f
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of the twelfth century, when it bec
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This is the nearest campsite to Pad
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century works, including four myste
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Menabuoi have survived. Most of the
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Monument to Gattamelata decorated c
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and 1577, they are the most importa
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ut the vast Saturday market, groups
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season’s events can be obtained f
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From the train station, the route t
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train ride from Monsélice (9 daily
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Walls of Montagnana Practicalities
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is La Rotonda (April-Oct daily 8am-
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A few of these villas are of intere
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Bèrico; the downside is that it’
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Andrea Palladio Born in Padua in 15
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finished until the second decade of
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Palladio’s rugged Palazzo Thiene,
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ers in 899 and then by earthquakes
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in Rome in the service of the papac
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Montecchio’s other attractions, a
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From the main train station (Verona
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Vicenza, Verona and around | Verona
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Combined tickets A biglietto unico,
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in a room off the courtyard of the
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loody feuds being commonplace (the
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Its large rose window, representing
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For a non-alcoholic indulgence, sit
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Listings American Express c/o H.P.T
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Treviso today is a brisk commercial
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dressing stone led in the thirteent
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Agnes and John by Tomaso himself, o
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(t0422.411.661, wwww.hotelcarlton.i
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at Borgo Treviso 73, opposite the t
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century mistakes. It’s better kno
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the bridge in 1948). The river was
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The Town Maróstica was run by the
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The Gipsoteca and Casa Canova The p
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The Town The main road into town fr
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Venetians who were then beginning t
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to some it was Castaldi rather than
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Cima exemplifies the conservative s
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Oct-April 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm; e
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(named after a group of partisans e
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Contexts 385
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A brief history of Venice In the mi
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Page 401 and 402: The Genoese Wars The enmities creat
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Page 405 and 406: No sooner was the Interdict out of
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Page 413 and 414: High Renaissance painting While the
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Page 417 and 418: An outline of Venetian architecture
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Page 431 and 432: Romanticism. Lots of passion and pa
Page 433 and 434: choice of pictures are exemplary. A
Page 435 and 436: to the history of Venice between th
Page 437 and 438: series of itineraries of the city f
Page 439 and 440: Language 429
Page 441 and 442: Language Although it’s not uncomm
Page 443 and 444: Numbers 1 uno 2 due 3 tre 4 quattro
Page 445 and 446: In the restaurant A table I’d lik
Page 447 and 448: Pasta Cannelloni Farfalle Fettucine
Page 449: Pecorino Provolone Ricotta Strong-t
Page 453 and 454: Travel store
Page 455: Travel store
Page 462 and 463: A Rough Guide to Rough Guides Publi
Page 464 and 465: Acknowledgements and readers’ let
Page 466 and 467: index | 456 Campo Santi Giovanni e
Page 468 and 469: index | 458 Luzzo, Lorenzo.........
Page 470 and 471: index | 460 Pisanello.......152, 34
Page 472 and 473: index | 462 Tiepolo, Doge Giacomo..
Page 474: Map symbols maps are listed in the
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The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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