The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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the southern islands | 230 San Lazzaro degli Armeni and the minor islands the Lido, San Lazzaro degli Armeni (entry by guided tour only, daily at 3.25pm; e6), identifiable from the city by the onion-shaped summit of its campanile. The connecting #20 motoscafo leaves San Zaccaria at 3.10pm and returns within ten minutes of the end of the guided tour. Occasionally conferences preclude visits, in which case a notice is posted at the motoscafo stop. From the late twelfth century to the beginning of the seventeenth the island was a leper colony – hence Lazzaro, Lazarus being the patron saint of lepers – but the land was disused when in 1717 an Armenian monastery was founded here by one Manug di Pietro. Known as Mekhitar (“The Consoler”), he had been driven by the Turks from the religious foundation he had established with Venetian aid in the Morea. Within a few years the monks of San Lazzaro earned a wide reputation as scholars and linguists, a reputation that has persisted to the present. Today, Vienna has the only community outside Armenia that can compare to Venice’s as a centre of Armenian culture. (If you’re wondering how the Armenians escaped suppression by the French, it’s allegedly got something to do with the presence of an indispensable Armenian official in Napoleon’s secretariat.) Tours are conducted by one of the resident monks, and you can expect him to be trilingual, at the very least. The tour begins in the turquoise-ceilinged church, in which you’ll be given a brief introduction to the culture of Armenia in general and the San Lazzaro Armenians in particular – whereas the Armenian Church is Orthodox, San Lazzaro is an Armenian Catholic foundation, which means it follows the Roman liturgy but is not subject to the authority of the pope. Reflecting the encyclopedic interests of its occupants, the monastery is in places like a whimsically arranged museum; at one end of the old library, for example, a mummified Egyptian body is laid out near the sarcophagus in which it was found (the sarcophagus was made for a different occupant), while at the other is a teak and ivory throne that once seated the governor of Delhi, and a Sanskrit Buddhist manuscript. The monastery’s collection of precious manuscripts and books – the former going back to the fifth century – is another highlight of the visit, occupying a modern rotunda in the heart of the complex. Elsewhere you’ll see antique metalwork, extraordinarily intricate Chinese ivory carvings, pieces of Roman pottery, a gallery of paintings by Armenian painters, a ceiling panel by the young Giambattista Tiepolo, and Canova’s figure of Napoleon’s infant son, which sits in a corner of the book-lined chamber in which Byron studied while lending a hand with the preparation of an Armenian–English dictionary – it took him just six months to get a working knowledge of the language, it’s said. The tour might also take you into a small museum dedicated to Mekhitar (featuring the scourging chain found on his body after his death), but will certainly end at the monastery’s shop. A polyglot press was founded on San Lazzaro in 1789 and an Armenian press is still administered from here, although since 1992 the printing – of everything from books to wine labels – has been done out at Punta Sabbioni. If you’re looking for an unusual present to take home, you could buy something here: the old maps and prints of Venice are a bargain. The “Hospital Islands” San Lazzaro is the only minor island of the southern lagoon that’s of interest to tourists. The boat out to San Lazzaro calls at La Grazia, successively a pilgrims’ hostel, a monastery and now a hospital, and San Servolo, once one of the most important Benedictine monasteries in the region (founded in the ninth century), then a hospital for the insane, then the home of the Council of Europe’s School of Craftsmanship, and now the base of Venice International University, a study centre administered by universities in Italy, Japan, Germany and the US. San Clemente, to the south of La Grazia, was another hospital island until 1992, when it
the southern islands | San Lazzaro degli Armeni campanile was closed down. After a period as a refuge for Venice’s stray cats, it now supports one of the city’s newest plush hotels, the San Clemente Palace (see p.245). A similar conversion has happened on nearby Sacca Sessola, whose tuberculosis sanatorium has been remodelled as the Sofitel Venezia. Until the mid-seventeenth century there was a monastery on Santo Spirito, with a church redesigned by Sansovino, but when the order was suppressed most of its treasures, including paintings by Titian, were sent to the then unfinished Salute church on the Canal Grande, where they San Lazzaro degli Armeni and the minor islands 231
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ROUGHGUIDES THE ROUGH GUIDE to Veni
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The Rough Guide to Venice & the Ven
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| IntRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHen
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The G
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | Ciche
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The M
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Basics Getting there ..............
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BASICS | Getting there 20 Christmas
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BASICS | Getting there 22 if you tr
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BASICS | The media Airlines in Aust
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BASICS | Travel essentials of model
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BASICS | Travel essentials 28 probl
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BASICS | Travel essentials 30 and i
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BASICS | Travel essentials includin
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The City Venice: the practicalities
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36 venice: the Practicalities | San
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38 venice: the Practicalities | Wat
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7.50pm); San Marcuola-Fondaco dei T
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Frari Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 1-6pm; e
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san marco The Piazza | 44
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san marco | The Piazza 46 orchard o
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san marco | The Basilica di San Mar
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san marco | 50 The Basilica di San
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san marco | The Palazzo Ducale 60 A
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The Government of Venice san marco
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in as to how much of the building i
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san marco | 66 The Palazzo Ducale o
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san marco | 68 The Palazzo Ducale o
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san marco | The Campanile and the C
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The Bicentenary Siege san marco | T
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san marco | 74 The Procuratie a dev
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san marco | The Piazzetta and the M
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san marco | North of the Piazza him
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san marco | 80 North of the Piazza
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san marco West of the Piazza | 86
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The 1996 Fenice fire san marco | 88
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san marco | West of the Piazza 90
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san marco | 92 West of the Piazza b
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2 Dorsoduro dorsoduro There | were
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dorsoduro | 96 The Accademia - but
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dorsoduro | 98 The Accademia 1560s)
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The street cuts down almost as far
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dorsoduro | 102 Eastern Dorsoduro R
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dorsoduro | 104 The Záttere and we
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dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro by o
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dorsoduro | 108 Northern Dorsoduro
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dorsoduro | 110 Northern Dorsoduro
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dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro Gian
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Carnevale John Evelyn wrote of the
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The Regata Storica Held on the firs
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San Polo and Santa Croce | From the
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San Polo and Santa Croce | 120 From
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Aldus Manutius San Polo and Santa C
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Christ by Vittoria, and a Virgin an
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4 Cannaregio | From the train stati
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Cannaregio | From the train station
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paintings in Venice that is compara
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Cannaregio The Ghetto | 144 The Gh
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Cannaregio | 146 Northern Cannaregi
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to the chapel containing Tintoretto
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Cannaregio | 150 Southern and easte
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city. Those who haven’t acquired
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Cannaregio Southern and eastern Can
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The Fondamente Nove The long waterf
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5 Central Castello central castello
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central castello Campo Santi Giovan
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central castello | 162 Campo Santi
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order the square, the most impressi
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central castello | 170 Campo Santa
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central castello | 172 San Zaccaria
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central castello | 174 San Zaccaria
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central castello | San Zaccaria to
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eastern castello | San Francesco de
Page 186 and 187: eastern castello | 180 San Francesc
Page 188 and 189: white dog in the final one. The sce
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Page 196 and 197: eastern castello | Beyond the Arsen
Page 198 and 199: the canal grande | The Left Bank 19
Page 200 and 201: the canal grande The Left Bank | 19
Page 202 and 203: the canal grande | 196 The Left Ban
Page 204 and 205: the canal grande | The Right Bank s
Page 206 and 207: the canal grande | 200 The Right Ba
Page 208 and 209: From the Ca’ Rezzonico to the Dog
Page 210 and 211: the canal grande | The Right Bank r
Page 212 and 213: the northern islands San Michele |
Page 214 and 215: the highest funeral honour the city
Page 216 and 217: Venetian glass the northern islands
Page 218 and 219: the northern islands | 212 Burano a
Page 220 and 221: the northern islands | Torcello the
Page 222 and 223: Saint Fosca, brought to Torcello fr
Page 224 and 225: draws thousands of people to its be
Page 226 and 227: gatekeeper might do the trick if he
Page 228 and 229: the southern islands | La Giudecca
Page 230 and 231: Damiano, having been left to crumbl
Page 232 and 233: and southern ends of the island - t
Page 234 and 235: the southern islands | 228 From the
Page 238 and 239: can now be seen. Lazzaretto Vecchio
Page 240 and 241: Listings 10 Accommodation 235-248 1
Page 242 and 243: 236 accommodation | Hotels Hotels V
Page 244 and 245: 238 accommodation | Hotels Santo St
Page 246 and 247: 240 accommodation | Hotels San Cass
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Page 250 and 251: 244 accommodation | Hotels Sant’A
Page 252 and 253: accommodation Bed & Breakfast • S
Page 254 and 255: per night on average. They take boo
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Page 258 and 259: 252 Eating and drinking | Restauran
Page 260 and 261: Eating and drinking | Restaurants 2
Page 262 and 263: 256 Eating and drinking | Restauran
Page 264 and 265: Methods and materials One of the at
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Page 270 and 271: Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
Page 272 and 273: Late-night drinking The following p
Page 274 and 275: Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
Page 276 and 277: Eating and drinking Cafés, pasticc
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Margherita 2928. Mon-Fri 8am-1pm &
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shopping Glass • Jewellery | boat
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shopping | Masks Ca’ Macana 280
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an interesting line in personalized
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Directory | 284 Giovanni e Paolo, t
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The Veneto 287
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The Veneto: practicalities The admi
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ments - which sometimes means no se
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L Padua and the southern Veneto Sum
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Hoi polloi can get to Malcontenta f
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and the dining room has a ceiling f
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of the twelfth century, when it bec
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This is the nearest campsite to Pad
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century works, including four myste
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Menabuoi have survived. Most of the
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Monument to Gattamelata decorated c
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and 1577, they are the most importa
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ut the vast Saturday market, groups
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season’s events can be obtained f
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From the train station, the route t
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train ride from Monsélice (9 daily
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Walls of Montagnana Practicalities
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is La Rotonda (April-Oct daily 8am-
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A few of these villas are of intere
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Bèrico; the downside is that it’
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Andrea Palladio Born in Padua in 15
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finished until the second decade of
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Palladio’s rugged Palazzo Thiene,
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ers in 899 and then by earthquakes
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in Rome in the service of the papac
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Montecchio’s other attractions, a
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From the main train station (Verona
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Vicenza, Verona and around | Verona
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Combined tickets A biglietto unico,
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in a room off the courtyard of the
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loody feuds being commonplace (the
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Its large rose window, representing
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For a non-alcoholic indulgence, sit
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Listings American Express c/o H.P.T
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Treviso today is a brisk commercial
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dressing stone led in the thirteent
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Agnes and John by Tomaso himself, o
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(t0422.411.661, wwww.hotelcarlton.i
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at Borgo Treviso 73, opposite the t
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century mistakes. It’s better kno
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the bridge in 1948). The river was
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The Town Maróstica was run by the
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The Gipsoteca and Casa Canova The p
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The Town The main road into town fr
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Venetians who were then beginning t
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to some it was Castaldi rather than
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Cima exemplifies the conservative s
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Oct-April 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm; e
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(named after a group of partisans e
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Contexts 385
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A brief history of Venice In the mi
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Antonio Venier 1382-1400 Michele St
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The Genoese Wars The enmities creat
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and the new ruler of Milan, Frances
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No sooner was the Interdict out of
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works of art. The Austrians’ urba
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airport and Mestre. Apologists for
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Greco (1545-1614) worked with the M
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High Renaissance painting While the
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Malipiero, is pictorially flat and
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An outline of Venetian architecture
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San Zanipolo (Dominican) and the Fr
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death of Bartolomeo Bon in 1529, a
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church of this period - San Simeone
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ebuilt, reintroducing industry and
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have been extended within a grid of
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inside and excreting white crusts o
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Romanticism. Lots of passion and pa
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choice of pictures are exemplary. A
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to the history of Venice between th
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series of itineraries of the city f
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Language 429
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Language Although it’s not uncomm
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Numbers 1 uno 2 due 3 tre 4 quattro
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In the restaurant A table I’d lik
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Pasta Cannelloni Farfalle Fettucine
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Pecorino Provolone Ricotta Strong-t
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Glossary of Italian words Italian w
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Travel store
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Travel store
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A Rough Guide to Rough Guides Publi
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Acknowledgements and readers’ let
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index | 456 Campo Santi Giovanni e
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index | 458 Luzzo, Lorenzo.........
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index | 460 Pisanello.......152, 34
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index | 462 Tiepolo, Doge Giacomo..
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Map symbols maps are listed in the
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The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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