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The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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La Sensa <strong>and</strong> Vogalonga<br />

<strong>The</strong> feast of La Sensa happens in May on <strong>the</strong> Sunday after Ascension Day – <strong>the</strong> latter being<br />

<strong>the</strong> day on which <strong>the</strong> doge enacted <strong>the</strong> wedding of <strong>Venice</strong> <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> sea (see p.224). A feeble<br />

modern version of that ritual is followed by a gondola regatta, but far more spectacular is <strong>the</strong><br />

Vogalonga or “long row” (wwww.vogalonga.it), held on <strong>the</strong> same day. Established in 1974 as<br />

a protest against <strong>the</strong> number of mo<strong>to</strong>rboats on <strong>the</strong> canals, <strong>the</strong> Vogalonga is now open <strong>to</strong> any<br />

crew in any class of rowing boat, <strong>and</strong> covers a 32-kilometre course from <strong>the</strong> Bacino di San<br />

Marco out <strong>to</strong> Burano <strong>and</strong> back; <strong>the</strong> competi<strong>to</strong>rs set off from in front of <strong>the</strong> Palazzo Ducale<br />

around 9am <strong>and</strong> arrive at <strong>the</strong> bot<strong>to</strong>m of <strong>the</strong> Canal Gr<strong>and</strong>e between about 11am <strong>and</strong> 3pm.<br />

Festa di San Pietro<br />

g <strong>The</strong> Vogalonga<br />

Held in <strong>the</strong> week of June 29, <strong>the</strong> Festa di San Pietro is a small-scale festival of concerts,<br />

open-air shows <strong>and</strong> food stalls, held around <strong>the</strong> church of San Pietro di Castello. Entirely<br />

un<strong>to</strong>uched by <strong>to</strong>urism, it’s an au<strong>the</strong>ntic anti<strong>the</strong>sis <strong>to</strong> Carnevale.<br />

Festa del Reden<strong>to</strong>re<br />

<strong>The</strong> Festa del Reden<strong>to</strong>re, which<br />

marks <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> plague epidemic<br />

of 1576, is celebrated on <strong>the</strong> third<br />

Sunday in July, <strong>and</strong> is centred on<br />

Palladio’s church of <strong>the</strong> Reden<strong>to</strong>re,<br />

which was built by way of thanksgiving<br />

for <strong>the</strong> city’s deliverance. A bridge of<br />

boats is strung across <strong>the</strong> Giudecca<br />

canal, <strong>and</strong> on <strong>the</strong> Saturday night<br />

hundreds of people row out for a<br />

picnic on <strong>the</strong> water. <strong>The</strong> night ends<br />

with a gr<strong>and</strong> fireworks display, after<br />

which it’s traditional <strong>to</strong> row <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Lido<br />

for <strong>the</strong> sunrise.<br />

g Reden<strong>to</strong>re fireworks

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