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The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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from <strong>the</strong> vaporet<strong>to</strong> s<strong>to</strong>p is made by machine. Lace-making used <strong>to</strong> be a skill that<br />

crossed all social boundaries: for noblewomen it was an expression of feminine<br />

creativity; for nuns it was an exercise in humility <strong>and</strong> contemplation; <strong>and</strong> for <strong>the</strong><br />

poorest it was simply a source of income. Its production was once geographically<br />

diverse, <strong>to</strong>o – Dogaressa Morosina Morosini set up a large <strong>and</strong> successful workshop<br />

near Santa Fosca (Cannaregio) in <strong>the</strong> late sixteenth century, for instance – but<br />

nowadays Burano is <strong>the</strong> exclusive centre. (By <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> sixteenth century,<br />

lace-making had become <strong>the</strong> chief pastime of upper-class Venetian women, <strong>and</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong> printing presses were turning out a range of manuals on <strong>the</strong> subject, with titles<br />

such as La gloria e l’honore de ponti tagliati et ponti in aere – “<strong>The</strong> Glory <strong>and</strong> Honour of<br />

Bobbin <strong>and</strong> Needle Lace”.) Much sentimental nonsense has been written about <strong>the</strong><br />

craft: “every Burano cottage doorway has its demure lace-maker, stitching away in<br />

<strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn isl<strong>and</strong>s<br />

|<br />

Burano <strong>and</strong> San Francesco del Deser<strong>to</strong><br />

213

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