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The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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<strong>The</strong> big names of <strong>Venice</strong><br />

More than twenty Venetian palaces bear <strong>the</strong> Contarini name, <strong>and</strong> at one time<br />

<strong>the</strong>re were around thirty. <strong>The</strong> city has more than a dozen Morosini palaces,<br />

<strong>and</strong> a plethora of such names as Loredan, Corner, Donà, Giustinian <strong>and</strong> Grimani.<br />

Intermarriage between big families is one reason for <strong>the</strong>se recurrences<br />

– dynastic marriages were often marked by grafting <strong>the</strong> new relatives’ surname<br />

on<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> house’s original name. <strong>The</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r main explanation is that <strong>the</strong> sons<br />

of wealthy patricians would often, upon receiving <strong>the</strong>ir shares of <strong>the</strong> fa<strong>the</strong>r’s<br />

estate, set up <strong>the</strong>ir own branches of <strong>the</strong> family in houses in o<strong>the</strong>r parts of <strong>the</strong><br />

city; if <strong>the</strong>y bought a property from ano<strong>the</strong>r member of <strong>the</strong> patriciate, <strong>the</strong> transaction<br />

often resulted in a double-barrelled palace name. In some instances, a<br />

building’s his<strong>to</strong>ry of ownership can leave it trailing a three-part title, such as<br />

<strong>the</strong> Palazzo Cappello-Trevisan-Miari, Palazzo Marcello-Foscarini-Sangian<strong>to</strong>ffetti<br />

or <strong>the</strong> superbly melodious Palazzo Marcello-Pindemonte-Papadopoli. And why<br />

s<strong>to</strong>p at three Near San Stae <strong>the</strong>re’s a house that’s properly known as Palazzo<br />

Boldù-Ghisi-Contarini-Pisani, <strong>and</strong> if you want <strong>to</strong> be really pedantic you should<br />

refer <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> building occupied by <strong>the</strong> Danieli Hotel as <strong>the</strong> Palazzo D<strong>and</strong>olo-Gritti-<br />

Bernardo-Mocenigo.<br />

obliged <strong>to</strong> sell <strong>the</strong> still unfinished palace <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Rezzonico family, who were<br />

Genoese bankers. Despite having lashed out 100,000 ducats <strong>to</strong> buy <strong>the</strong>ir way<br />

in<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Libro d’Oro (at a time when 1000 ducats per annum was a comfortable<br />

income for a noble), <strong>the</strong> new owners could afford <strong>to</strong> keep Massari employed<br />

on <strong>the</strong> completion of <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>p floor, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>n <strong>to</strong> tack a ballroom <strong>and</strong> staircase<br />

on<strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> back. Among its subsequent owners was Pen Browning, whose<br />

fa<strong>the</strong>r Robert died here in 1889; <strong>and</strong> both Whistler <strong>and</strong> Cole Porter stayed<br />

here briefly. <strong>The</strong> Ca’ Rezzonico is now home <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Museo del Settecen<strong>to</strong><br />

Veneziano – see p.111.<br />

After a couple of canals you pass <strong>the</strong> Palazzo Loredan dell’ Ambascia<strong>to</strong>re,<br />

opposite <strong>the</strong> Ca’ del Duca. Taking its name from <strong>the</strong> Austrian embassy that<br />

used <strong>to</strong> be here, it was built in <strong>the</strong> fifteenth century, <strong>and</strong> is notable mainly for<br />

<strong>the</strong> figures in niches on <strong>the</strong> facade, which possibly came from <strong>the</strong> workshop<br />

of An<strong>to</strong>nio Rizzo. On <strong>the</strong> far side of <strong>the</strong> next canal, <strong>the</strong> Rio di San Trovaso,<br />

st<strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> Palazzo Contarini-Corfu <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> Palazzo Contarini degli<br />

Scrigni. <strong>The</strong> “Corfu” bit of <strong>the</strong> first name derives ei<strong>the</strong>r from <strong>the</strong> fact that a<br />

Contarini was once a military comm<strong>and</strong>er on that isl<strong>and</strong>, or from <strong>the</strong> name of<br />

a family that lived in <strong>the</strong> parish before <strong>the</strong> Contarini. <strong>The</strong> two palaces form<br />

a single unit; <strong>the</strong> Scrigni was built in 1609 as an extension <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Corfu, a<br />

fifteenth-century Gothic house. A similar operation was carried out at <strong>the</strong><br />

Palazzi Barbaro (opposite, just after <strong>the</strong> Accademia bridge), with less jarring<br />

results.<br />

Yet ano<strong>the</strong>r Contarini palace st<strong>and</strong>s a few metres past <strong>the</strong> Accademia bridge<br />

– <strong>the</strong> Palazzo Contarini-Polignac. This branch of <strong>the</strong> Contarini family<br />

made itself rich through l<strong>and</strong>holdings around Jaffa, <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> dialect version of<br />

that place name is <strong>the</strong> source of <strong>the</strong> alternative name for <strong>the</strong> palace: Contarini<br />

dal Zaffo. <strong>The</strong> facade, which was applied <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> Gothic building in <strong>the</strong> late fifteenth<br />

century, represents a transitional phase between <strong>the</strong> highly decorative<br />

style associated with <strong>the</strong> Lombardi <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>ir imita<strong>to</strong>rs (see <strong>the</strong> Palazzo Dario,<br />

p.204) <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> classicizing work of Codussi.<br />

<strong>The</strong> Venier family, ano<strong>the</strong>r of <strong>Venice</strong>’s great dynasties (<strong>the</strong>y produced<br />

three doges, including <strong>the</strong> comm<strong>and</strong>er of <strong>the</strong> Christian fleet at Lépan<strong>to</strong>), had<br />

<strong>the</strong>ir main base just beyond <strong>the</strong> Campo San Vio. In 1759 <strong>the</strong> Veniers began<br />

<strong>the</strong> canal gr<strong>and</strong>e<br />

|<br />

<strong>The</strong> Right Bank<br />

203

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