The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The Ghetto page 143 • The Jewish 02 quarter of Venice gave the word “ghetto” to the world. Rialto market page 116 • In 03 business for around a thousand years, the Rialto market is still buzzing. Basilica di San Marco page 48 04 • The mosaic-encrusted cathedral of Saint Mark is the most lavish of Europe’s cathedrals. Palazzo Ducale page 59 • 05 Home to the doge and seat of the government and law courts, the Palazzo Ducale was the hub of the Venetian republic. 12 Wine bars page 260 • There 06 are plenty of places in Venice where you can sample the wines of the Veneto – Al Volto is one of the best.
Santi Giovanni e Paolo 07 page 158 • The huge church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo (or Zanipolo, as it’s known locally) is the doges’ mausoleum. | consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The Accademia page 96 • The 08 city’s top museum is home to a superb collection of Venetian art. Scuola Grande di San 09 Rocco page 132 • A stupendous cycle of paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto fills both floors of the Scuola Grande di San Rocco. Verona page 348 • The magnificent 10 church of San Zeno is just one of the monuments that make Verona so alluring a city. Torcello page 214 • Take a trip out 11 to the northern reaches of the lagoon, to the almost deserted island Torcello, Venice’s ancient ancestor. 13
Page 1 and 2: ROUGHGUIDES THE ROUGH GUIDE to Veni
Page 3: The Rough Guide to Venice & the Ven
Page 6 and 7: | IntRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN
Page 8 and 9: | INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
Page 10 and 11: | INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
Page 12 and 13: | INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHen
Page 16 and 17: | consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | Ciche
Page 18 and 19: | consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The M
Page 20 and 21: Basics Getting there ..............
Page 22 and 23: BASICS | Getting there 20 Christmas
Page 24 and 25: BASICS | Getting there 22 if you tr
Page 26 and 27: BASICS | The media Airlines in Aust
Page 28 and 29: BASICS | Travel essentials of model
Page 30 and 31: BASICS | Travel essentials 28 probl
Page 32 and 33: BASICS | Travel essentials 30 and i
Page 34 and 35: BASICS | Travel essentials includin
Page 36 and 37: The City Venice: the practicalities
Page 38 and 39: 36 venice: the Practicalities | San
Page 40 and 41: 38 venice: the Practicalities | Wat
Page 42 and 43: 7.50pm); San Marcuola-Fondaco dei T
Page 44 and 45: Frari Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 1-6pm; e
Page 46 and 47: san marco The Piazza | 44
Page 48 and 49: san marco | The Piazza 46 orchard o
Page 50 and 51: san marco | The Basilica di San Mar
Page 52 and 53: san marco | 50 The Basilica di San
Page 62 and 63: san marco | The Palazzo Ducale 60 A
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The Government of Venice san marco
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in as to how much of the building i
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san marco | 66 The Palazzo Ducale o
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san marco | 68 The Palazzo Ducale o
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san marco | The Campanile and the C
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The Bicentenary Siege san marco | T
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san marco | 74 The Procuratie a dev
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san marco | The Piazzetta and the M
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san marco | North of the Piazza him
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san marco | 80 North of the Piazza
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san marco West of the Piazza | 86
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The 1996 Fenice fire san marco | 88
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san marco | West of the Piazza 90
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san marco | 92 West of the Piazza b
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2 Dorsoduro dorsoduro There | were
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dorsoduro | 96 The Accademia - but
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dorsoduro | 98 The Accademia 1560s)
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The street cuts down almost as far
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dorsoduro | 102 Eastern Dorsoduro R
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dorsoduro | 104 The Záttere and we
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dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro by o
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dorsoduro | 108 Northern Dorsoduro
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dorsoduro | 110 Northern Dorsoduro
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dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro Gian
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Carnevale John Evelyn wrote of the
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The Regata Storica Held on the firs
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San Polo and Santa Croce | From the
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San Polo and Santa Croce | 120 From
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Aldus Manutius San Polo and Santa C
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Christ by Vittoria, and a Virgin an
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4 Cannaregio | From the train stati
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Cannaregio | From the train station
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paintings in Venice that is compara
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Cannaregio The Ghetto | 144 The Gh
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Cannaregio | 146 Northern Cannaregi
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to the chapel containing Tintoretto
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Cannaregio | 150 Southern and easte
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city. Those who haven’t acquired
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Cannaregio Southern and eastern Can
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The Fondamente Nove The long waterf
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5 Central Castello central castello
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central castello Campo Santi Giovan
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central castello | 162 Campo Santi
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order the square, the most impressi
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central castello | 170 Campo Santa
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central castello | 172 San Zaccaria
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central castello | 174 San Zaccaria
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central castello | San Zaccaria to
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eastern castello | San Francesco de
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eastern castello | 180 San Francesc
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white dog in the final one. The sce
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Follow the fondamenta south from Sa
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a less precisely classical storey -
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statue of Admiral Angelo Emo (1792)
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eastern castello | Beyond the Arsen
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the canal grande | The Left Bank 19
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the canal grande The Left Bank | 19
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the canal grande | 196 The Left Ban
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the canal grande | The Right Bank s
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the canal grande | 200 The Right Ba
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From the Ca’ Rezzonico to the Dog
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the canal grande | The Right Bank r
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the northern islands San Michele |
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the highest funeral honour the city
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Venetian glass the northern islands
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the northern islands | 212 Burano a
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the northern islands | Torcello the
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Saint Fosca, brought to Torcello fr
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draws thousands of people to its be
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gatekeeper might do the trick if he
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the southern islands | La Giudecca
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Damiano, having been left to crumbl
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and southern ends of the island - t
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the southern islands | 228 From the
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the southern islands | 230 San Lazz
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can now be seen. Lazzaretto Vecchio
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Listings 10 Accommodation 235-248 1
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236 accommodation | Hotels Hotels V
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238 accommodation | Hotels Santo St
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240 accommodation | Hotels San Cass
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the continent - provided you book a
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244 accommodation | Hotels Sant’A
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accommodation Bed & Breakfast • S
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per night on average. They take boo
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isn’t a Venetian speciality. Take
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252 Eating and drinking | Restauran
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Eating and drinking | Restaurants 2
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256 Eating and drinking | Restauran
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Methods and materials One of the at
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h Ca’ Pèsaro The floor plan Vene
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evening & all Tues. Moderate. Da Re
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Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
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Late-night drinking The following p
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Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
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Eating and drinking Cafés, pasticc
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Santa Margherita, Campiello dell’
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nightlife and the arts Music and th
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joint called Club Malvasia Vecchia
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nightlife and the arts | Other exhi
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Margherita 2928. Mon-Fri 8am-1pm &
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shopping Glass • Jewellery | boat
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shopping | Masks Ca’ Macana 280
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an interesting line in personalized
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Directory | 284 Giovanni e Paolo, t
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The Veneto 287
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The Veneto: practicalities The admi
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ments - which sometimes means no se
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L Padua and the southern Veneto Sum
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Hoi polloi can get to Malcontenta f
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and the dining room has a ceiling f
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of the twelfth century, when it bec
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This is the nearest campsite to Pad
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century works, including four myste
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Menabuoi have survived. Most of the
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Monument to Gattamelata decorated c
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and 1577, they are the most importa
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ut the vast Saturday market, groups
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season’s events can be obtained f
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From the train station, the route t
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train ride from Monsélice (9 daily
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Walls of Montagnana Practicalities
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is La Rotonda (April-Oct daily 8am-
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A few of these villas are of intere
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Bèrico; the downside is that it’
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Andrea Palladio Born in Padua in 15
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finished until the second decade of
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Palladio’s rugged Palazzo Thiene,
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ers in 899 and then by earthquakes
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in Rome in the service of the papac
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Montecchio’s other attractions, a
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From the main train station (Verona
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Vicenza, Verona and around | Verona
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Combined tickets A biglietto unico,
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in a room off the courtyard of the
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loody feuds being commonplace (the
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Its large rose window, representing
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For a non-alcoholic indulgence, sit
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Listings American Express c/o H.P.T
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Treviso today is a brisk commercial
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dressing stone led in the thirteent
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Agnes and John by Tomaso himself, o
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(t0422.411.661, wwww.hotelcarlton.i
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at Borgo Treviso 73, opposite the t
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century mistakes. It’s better kno
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the bridge in 1948). The river was
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The Town Maróstica was run by the
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The Gipsoteca and Casa Canova The p
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The Town The main road into town fr
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Venetians who were then beginning t
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to some it was Castaldi rather than
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Cima exemplifies the conservative s
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Oct-April 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm; e
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(named after a group of partisans e
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Contexts 385
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A brief history of Venice In the mi
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Antonio Venier 1382-1400 Michele St
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The Genoese Wars The enmities creat
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and the new ruler of Milan, Frances
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No sooner was the Interdict out of
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works of art. The Austrians’ urba
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airport and Mestre. Apologists for
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Greco (1545-1614) worked with the M
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High Renaissance painting While the
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Malipiero, is pictorially flat and
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An outline of Venetian architecture
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San Zanipolo (Dominican) and the Fr
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death of Bartolomeo Bon in 1529, a
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church of this period - San Simeone
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ebuilt, reintroducing industry and
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have been extended within a grid of
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inside and excreting white crusts o
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Romanticism. Lots of passion and pa
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choice of pictures are exemplary. A
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to the history of Venice between th
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series of itineraries of the city f
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Language 429
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Language Although it’s not uncomm
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Numbers 1 uno 2 due 3 tre 4 quattro
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In the restaurant A table I’d lik
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Pasta Cannelloni Farfalle Fettucine
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Pecorino Provolone Ricotta Strong-t
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Glossary of Italian words Italian w
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Travel store
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Travel store
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A Rough Guide to Rough Guides Publi
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Acknowledgements and readers’ let
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index | 456 Campo Santi Giovanni e
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index | 458 Luzzo, Lorenzo.........
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index | 460 Pisanello.......152, 34
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index | 462 Tiepolo, Doge Giacomo..
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Map symbols maps are listed in the
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