The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

tious, tiny and very popular, so you’ll need
to book – and note that the kitchen closes
at around 9pm. No cards. Closed Wed eve
& Sun eve.
Da Rioba Fondamenta della Misericordia
2553 t041.524.4379. This smartly
austere osteria is another excellent northern
Cannaregio eatery; often full to bursting,
especially in summer, when tables are set
beside the canal, but the management
always keeps the atmosphere relaxed.
Closed Mon. Moderate to expensive.
Fiaschetteria Toscana Salizzada S. Giovanni
Crisostomo 5719 t041.528.5281. The name
means “Tuscan Wine Shop”, but the menu
is quintessentially Venetian. Highly rated for
its food, the fiaschetteria also has a topclass
wine list. The service is immaculate,
and the place has an understated elegance.
Closed Mon lunch, Tues, a few days after
Carnevale and mid-July to mid-Aug. Expensive.
Gam-Gam Fondamenta di Cannaregio 1122
t041.099.4174. The unique feature of this
somewhat basic restaurant is its mix of
Jewish and Venetian cuisine – all kosher.
The cholent (chickpea stew) and latkas
(potato balls) are particularly good. Excellent
for vegetarians. No credit cards. Closed Fri
evening and all Sat. Inexpensive to moderate.
La Colombina Campiello del Pegolotto 1828
t041.275.0622. This trendy bar-restaurant
has been putting more emphasis on the
latter aspect of the business recently, with
great success. The huge wine list is still
crucial to its appeal, but the menu is strikingly
dissimilar to many of its rivals, mixing
Venetian aquatic standards with Tuscan
meat dishes. Daily 6.30pm–2am. Moderate
to expensive.
Vecia Cavana Rio Terá SS. Apostoli 4624
t041.528.7106. The orange walls and
wooden panelling create an inviting interior,
and the mouthwatering menu, carefully
assembled by owner Stefano Monti, is
similarly appealing, ranging from a wonderful
tuna tartare to a deliciously strange basil
ice cream. Excellent wines, including those
of Livio Felluga – the family vineyard of Stefano’s
wife. The bar offers delicious cicheti.
Closed Mon. Expensive.
Vini da Gigio Fondamenta S. Felice 3628a
t041.528.5140. Until a few years ago
most of the customers at this popular, family-run
wine bar-trattoria were locals; it’s now
on the tourist map yet it retains its authenticity
and is still, by Venetian standards,
excellent value, even if prices have crept
up in recent years. As the name suggests,
the wine list is remarkable. Closed Mon.
Moderate.
Central Castello
See map on p.159.
Aciugheta Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo 4357
t041.522.4292. A bar with a sizeable pizzeria-trattoria
attached. The closest spot to
San Marco to eat without paying through
the nose, it draws a lot of its custom from
waterbus staff and gondoliers. Good bar
food – in fact, it’s generally better than you
get in the restaurant section. The name
translates as “the little anchovy” and there
are pictures of anchovies on the wall.
Closed Wed. Moderate.
Alla Rivetta Ponte S. Provolo 4625
t041.528.7302. A long-standing favourite,
near Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo. The
owner has been known to dispense free
prosecco to people queuing for a table, but
there have been reports of a less than gracious
attitude towards tourists, and erratic
standards in the kitchen. Its popularity
shows no signs of abating, however. Closed
Mon. Moderate.
Alle Testiere Calle Mondo Nuovo 5801
t041.522.7220. Very small seafood restaurant
in the alley on the other side of
the canal from the front of Santa Maria
Formosa, with excellent daily specials and a
superb wine selection. Sittings at 7pm and
9pm to handle the demand. Closed Sun &
Mon, and mid-July to mid-Aug. Moderate
to expensive.
Al Mascaron Calle Lunga S. Maria Formosa
5225 t041.522.5995. Restaurant with an arty
feel and interesting cicheti at the bar, but
definitely two types of clientele – Italians and
non-Italians – with service to match. Foreigners
can get quite rude treatment, which
is a shame, as the food is good. Much more
welcoming is the same management’s bar
along the street, the Enoteca Mascareta
(see p.264). Booking advisable. No credit
cards. Closed Sun. Moderate.
Bandierette Barbaria delle Tole 6671
t041.522.0619. Nice seafood dishes served
by nice people at nice prices – around e35
a head. It has a loyal local following, so
it’s best to book your table. Closed Mon
Eating and drinking
| Restaurants
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