The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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2 Dorsoduro dorsoduro There | were not many places among the lagoon’s mudbanks where Venice’s early settlers could be confident that their dwellings wouldn’t slither down into the water, but with Dorsoduro they were on relatively solid ground: the sestiere’s name translates as “hard back”, and its buildings occupy the 94
largest area of firm silt in the centre of the city. Some of the finest minor domestic architecture in Venice is concentrated here, and in recent years many of the area’s best houses have been bought up by industrialists and financiers from elsewhere in northern Italy, investing in permanent homes or merely weekend havens from their places of work. The top-bracket colony is, however, pretty well confined to a triangle defined by the Accademia, the Punta della Dogana and the Gesuati. Stroll up to the area around Campo Santa Margherita and the atmosphere is quite different, in part because of the proximity of the main part of the university. During the day at least, it’s the paintings of Dorsoduro’s art galleries and religious institutions that draw most visitors across the Ponte dell’ Accademia. The Gallerie dell’Accademia, replete with masterpieces from each phase in the history of Venetian painting up to the eighteenth century, is the area’s essential port of call, and figures on most itineraries as the place to make for when the Piazza’s sights have been done. The huge church of Santa Maria della Salute, the grandest gesture of Venetian Baroque and a prime landmark when looking across the water from the Molo, is architecturally the major religious building of the district dorsoduro | 95
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ROUGHGUIDES THE ROUGH GUIDE to Veni
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The Rough Guide to Venice & the Ven
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| IntRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHen
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The G
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | Ciche
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The M
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Basics Getting there ..............
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BASICS | Getting there 20 Christmas
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BASICS | Getting there 22 if you tr
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BASICS | The media Airlines in Aust
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BASICS | Travel essentials of model
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BASICS | Travel essentials 28 probl
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BASICS | Travel essentials 30 and i
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BASICS | Travel essentials includin
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The City Venice: the practicalities
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36 venice: the Practicalities | San
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38 venice: the Practicalities | Wat
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7.50pm); San Marcuola-Fondaco dei T
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Frari Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 1-6pm; e
Page 46 and 47: san marco The Piazza | 44
Page 48 and 49: san marco | The Piazza 46 orchard o
Page 50 and 51: san marco | The Basilica di San Mar
Page 52 and 53: san marco | 50 The Basilica di San
Page 62 and 63: san marco | The Palazzo Ducale 60 A
Page 64 and 65: The Government of Venice san marco
Page 66 and 67: in as to how much of the building i
Page 68 and 69: san marco | 66 The Palazzo Ducale o
Page 70 and 71: san marco | 68 The Palazzo Ducale o
Page 72 and 73: san marco | The Campanile and the C
Page 74 and 75: The Bicentenary Siege san marco | T
Page 76 and 77: san marco | 74 The Procuratie a dev
Page 78 and 79: san marco | The Piazzetta and the M
Page 80 and 81: san marco | North of the Piazza him
Page 82 and 83: san marco | 80 North of the Piazza
Page 88 and 89: san marco West of the Piazza | 86
Page 90 and 91: The 1996 Fenice fire san marco | 88
Page 92 and 93: san marco | West of the Piazza 90
Page 94 and 95: san marco | 92 West of the Piazza b
Page 98 and 99: dorsoduro | 96 The Accademia - but
Page 100 and 101: dorsoduro | 98 The Accademia 1560s)
Page 102 and 103: The street cuts down almost as far
Page 104 and 105: dorsoduro | 102 Eastern Dorsoduro R
Page 106 and 107: dorsoduro | 104 The Záttere and we
Page 108 and 109: dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro by o
Page 110 and 111: dorsoduro | 108 Northern Dorsoduro
Page 112 and 113: dorsoduro | 110 Northern Dorsoduro
Page 114 and 115: dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro Gian
Page 116 and 117: Carnevale John Evelyn wrote of the
Page 118 and 119: The Regata Storica Held on the firs
Page 120 and 121: San Polo and Santa Croce | From the
Page 126 and 127: San Polo and Santa Croce | 120 From
Page 132 and 133: Aldus Manutius San Polo and Santa C
Page 136 and 137: Christ by Vittoria, and a Virgin an
Page 144 and 145: 4 Cannaregio | From the train stati
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Cannaregio | From the train station
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paintings in Venice that is compara
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Cannaregio The Ghetto | 144 The Gh
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Cannaregio | 146 Northern Cannaregi
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to the chapel containing Tintoretto
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Cannaregio | 150 Southern and easte
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city. Those who haven’t acquired
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Cannaregio Southern and eastern Can
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The Fondamente Nove The long waterf
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5 Central Castello central castello
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central castello Campo Santi Giovan
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central castello | 162 Campo Santi
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order the square, the most impressi
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central castello | 170 Campo Santa
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central castello | 172 San Zaccaria
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central castello | 174 San Zaccaria
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central castello | San Zaccaria to
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eastern castello | San Francesco de
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eastern castello | 180 San Francesc
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white dog in the final one. The sce
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Follow the fondamenta south from Sa
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a less precisely classical storey -
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statue of Admiral Angelo Emo (1792)
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eastern castello | Beyond the Arsen
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the canal grande | The Left Bank 19
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the canal grande The Left Bank | 19
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the canal grande | 196 The Left Ban
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the canal grande | The Right Bank s
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the canal grande | 200 The Right Ba
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From the Ca’ Rezzonico to the Dog
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the canal grande | The Right Bank r
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the northern islands San Michele |
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the highest funeral honour the city
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Venetian glass the northern islands
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the northern islands | 212 Burano a
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the northern islands | Torcello the
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Saint Fosca, brought to Torcello fr
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draws thousands of people to its be
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gatekeeper might do the trick if he
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the southern islands | La Giudecca
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Damiano, having been left to crumbl
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and southern ends of the island - t
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the southern islands | 228 From the
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the southern islands | 230 San Lazz
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can now be seen. Lazzaretto Vecchio
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Listings 10 Accommodation 235-248 1
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236 accommodation | Hotels Hotels V
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238 accommodation | Hotels Santo St
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240 accommodation | Hotels San Cass
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the continent - provided you book a
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244 accommodation | Hotels Sant’A
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accommodation Bed & Breakfast • S
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per night on average. They take boo
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isn’t a Venetian speciality. Take
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252 Eating and drinking | Restauran
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Eating and drinking | Restaurants 2
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256 Eating and drinking | Restauran
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Methods and materials One of the at
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h Ca’ Pèsaro The floor plan Vene
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evening & all Tues. Moderate. Da Re
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Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
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Late-night drinking The following p
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Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
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Eating and drinking Cafés, pasticc
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Santa Margherita, Campiello dell’
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nightlife and the arts Music and th
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joint called Club Malvasia Vecchia
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nightlife and the arts | Other exhi
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Margherita 2928. Mon-Fri 8am-1pm &
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shopping Glass • Jewellery | boat
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shopping | Masks Ca’ Macana 280
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an interesting line in personalized
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Directory | 284 Giovanni e Paolo, t
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The Veneto 287
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The Veneto: practicalities The admi
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ments - which sometimes means no se
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L Padua and the southern Veneto Sum
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Hoi polloi can get to Malcontenta f
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and the dining room has a ceiling f
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of the twelfth century, when it bec
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This is the nearest campsite to Pad
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century works, including four myste
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Menabuoi have survived. Most of the
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Monument to Gattamelata decorated c
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and 1577, they are the most importa
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ut the vast Saturday market, groups
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season’s events can be obtained f
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From the train station, the route t
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train ride from Monsélice (9 daily
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Walls of Montagnana Practicalities
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is La Rotonda (April-Oct daily 8am-
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A few of these villas are of intere
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Bèrico; the downside is that it’
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Andrea Palladio Born in Padua in 15
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finished until the second decade of
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Palladio’s rugged Palazzo Thiene,
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ers in 899 and then by earthquakes
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in Rome in the service of the papac
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Montecchio’s other attractions, a
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From the main train station (Verona
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Vicenza, Verona and around | Verona
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Combined tickets A biglietto unico,
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in a room off the courtyard of the
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loody feuds being commonplace (the
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Its large rose window, representing
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For a non-alcoholic indulgence, sit
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Listings American Express c/o H.P.T
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Treviso today is a brisk commercial
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dressing stone led in the thirteent
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Agnes and John by Tomaso himself, o
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(t0422.411.661, wwww.hotelcarlton.i
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at Borgo Treviso 73, opposite the t
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century mistakes. It’s better kno
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the bridge in 1948). The river was
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The Town Maróstica was run by the
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The Gipsoteca and Casa Canova The p
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The Town The main road into town fr
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Venetians who were then beginning t
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to some it was Castaldi rather than
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Cima exemplifies the conservative s
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Oct-April 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm; e
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(named after a group of partisans e
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Contexts 385
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A brief history of Venice In the mi
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Antonio Venier 1382-1400 Michele St
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The Genoese Wars The enmities creat
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and the new ruler of Milan, Frances
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No sooner was the Interdict out of
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works of art. The Austrians’ urba
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airport and Mestre. Apologists for
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Greco (1545-1614) worked with the M
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High Renaissance painting While the
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Malipiero, is pictorially flat and
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An outline of Venetian architecture
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San Zanipolo (Dominican) and the Fr
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death of Bartolomeo Bon in 1529, a
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church of this period - San Simeone
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ebuilt, reintroducing industry and
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have been extended within a grid of
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inside and excreting white crusts o
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Romanticism. Lots of passion and pa
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choice of pictures are exemplary. A
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to the history of Venice between th
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series of itineraries of the city f
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Language 429
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Language Although it’s not uncomm
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Numbers 1 uno 2 due 3 tre 4 quattro
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In the restaurant A table I’d lik
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Pasta Cannelloni Farfalle Fettucine
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Pecorino Provolone Ricotta Strong-t
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Glossary of Italian words Italian w
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Travel store
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Travel store
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A Rough Guide to Rough Guides Publi
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Acknowledgements and readers’ let
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index | 456 Campo Santi Giovanni e
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index | 458 Luzzo, Lorenzo.........
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index | 460 Pisanello.......152, 34
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index | 462 Tiepolo, Doge Giacomo..
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Map symbols maps are listed in the
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The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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