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The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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Bragadin himself had his ears cut off in an assault that proved <strong>to</strong> be a foretaste<br />

of days of <strong>to</strong>rture. His eventual execution was appalling – chained <strong>to</strong> a stake<br />

on <strong>the</strong> public scaffold, he was slowly flayed alive in front of <strong>the</strong> Pasha. His<br />

skin, stuffed with straw, was <strong>the</strong>n mounted on a cow <strong>and</strong> paraded through <strong>the</strong><br />

streets, prior <strong>to</strong> being hung from <strong>the</strong> bowsprit of <strong>the</strong> admiral’s galley for <strong>the</strong><br />

return voyage <strong>to</strong> Constantinople. Later <strong>the</strong> skin was brought back <strong>to</strong> <strong>Venice</strong>,<br />

<strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong>day it sits in that urn high up on <strong>the</strong> wall.<br />

Giovanni Bellini’s painting for <strong>the</strong> first altar went up in smoke some years<br />

ago, but his marvellous polyptych of SS Vincent Ferrer, Chris<strong>to</strong>pher <strong>and</strong> Sebastian<br />

(on <strong>the</strong> second altar) has come through <strong>the</strong> centuries in magnificent fettle,<br />

although it has lost <strong>the</strong> image of God <strong>the</strong> Fa<strong>the</strong>r that used <strong>to</strong> be in <strong>the</strong> lunette.<br />

<strong>The</strong> oozing effigy reclining below is of Tommaso Caraffini, confessor <strong>and</strong><br />

biographer of Saint Ca<strong>the</strong>rine of Siena).<br />

central castello<br />

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Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo<br />

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