The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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the southern islands | La Giudecca 222 View of the Redentore from the Záttere La Giudecca’s main monument, beyond the tugboats’ mooring and the youth hostel (which was once a granary), is the Franciscan church of Il Redentore (Mon–Sat 10am–5pm, Sun 1–5pm; e2, or Chorus Pass), designed by Palladio in 1577. In 1575–76 Venice suffered an outbreak of plague which killed nearly fifty thousand people – virtually a third of the city’s population. The Redentore (“Redeemer”) was built by the Senate in thanks for Venice’s deliverance, and every year until the downfall of the Republic the doge and his senators attended a Mass here to renew their declaration of gratitude, walking to the church over a pontoon bridge from the Záttere. The Festa del Redentore has remained a major event on the Venetian calendar – celebrated on the third Sunday of July, it’s marked by a general
procession over the temporary bridge and a huge fireworks display on the previous evening. A large number of people spend the night out on the water, partying with friends on board their boats. Palladio’s commission called for a church to which there would be three distinct components: a choir for the monks to whom the church was entrusted, a tribune around the altar for the dignitaries of the city, and a nave with side chapels for the humbler worshippers. The architect’s scheme, in which the tribune forms a circular chapel which opens into the nave and blends into the choir through a curved screen of columns, is the most sophisticated of his church projects, as well as the one most directly evolved from the architecture of ancient Rome (the Imperial baths in particular).Unfortunately, though the interior has recently been cleaned, an appreciation of its subtleties is difficult, as a rope prevents visitors going beyond the nave. In the side chapels you’ll find a couple of pictures by Francesco Bassano and an Ascension by Tintoretto and his assistants, but the best paintings in the church – including a John the Baptist by Jacopo Bassano, a Baptism of Christ by Paolo Veronese and Madonna with Child and Angels by Alvise Vivarini – are in the sacristy, which is rarely opened. The Vivarini is accompanied by a strange gallery of eighteenth-century wax heads of illustrious Franciscans in various attitudes of agony and ecstasy, arranged in glass cases all round the room. Sant’Eufemia and the interior of La Giudecca Founded in the ninth century and often rebuilt, the church of Sant’Eufemia (Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 7am–12.30pm) is one of Venice’s most engaging stylistic discords, with a late sixteenth-century portico, the nave and aisles still laid out as in the original basilica (with some eleventh-century columns and capitals), and stucco work and painted decoration in eighteenth-century boudoir mode. It has one good painting, immediately on your right as you go in: St Roch and an Angel (with lunette of Madonna and Child), the central panel of a triptych painted in 1480 by Bartolomeo Vivarini. Beyond Sant’Eufemia, on Fondamenta San Biagio, stands the HQ of the Fortuny company, which still makes some of the sumptuous fabrics designed by the founder. Towering over it is the gargantuan Mulino Stucky, which got to look the way it does in 1895–96, after Giovanni Stucky brought in a German architect, Ernst Wullekopf, to convert and expand the premises of his flour mill. Planning permission for the brick bastion that Wullekopf came up with was obtained by the simple expedient of threatening to sack all the workers if the OK were withheld by the council. By the beginning of the twentieth century Stucky had become one of the richest men in the city, and in 1908 he bought one of the Canal Grande’s less discreet houses, the Palazzo Grassi. He didn’t enjoy his occupancy for long, though – in 1910 one of his employees murdered him at the entrance to the train station. With the development of the industrial sector at Marghera after World War I, the Mulino Stucky went into a nose dive, and in 1954 it closed. For decades after that, its future was a perennially contentious issue, but work is now under way (having been interrupted by a fire in 2003) to convert it into apartments, a convention centre and a Hilton hotel. There’s not much point in going past the Stucky building; Sacca Fisola, the next island along, is all modern apartments, bordered on one side by boatyards and on the other by the site at which waste used to be mixed with silt to form the basic material of land reclamation in the lagoon. For a taste of the economic past and present of La Giudecca, double back along the waterfront and then turn down the Fondamenta del Rio di Sant’Eufemia; a circuitous stroll from Campo di San Cosma (where the ex-church of SS Cosma e the southern islands | La Giudecca 223
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ROUGHGUIDES THE ROUGH GUIDE to Veni
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The Rough Guide to Venice & the Ven
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| IntRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHen
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The G
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | Ciche
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The M
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Basics Getting there ..............
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BASICS | Getting there 20 Christmas
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BASICS | Getting there 22 if you tr
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BASICS | The media Airlines in Aust
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BASICS | Travel essentials of model
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BASICS | Travel essentials 28 probl
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BASICS | Travel essentials 30 and i
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BASICS | Travel essentials includin
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The City Venice: the practicalities
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36 venice: the Practicalities | San
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38 venice: the Practicalities | Wat
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7.50pm); San Marcuola-Fondaco dei T
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Frari Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 1-6pm; e
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san marco The Piazza | 44
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san marco | The Piazza 46 orchard o
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san marco | The Basilica di San Mar
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san marco | 50 The Basilica di San
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san marco | The Palazzo Ducale 60 A
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The Government of Venice san marco
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in as to how much of the building i
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san marco | 66 The Palazzo Ducale o
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san marco | 68 The Palazzo Ducale o
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san marco | The Campanile and the C
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The Bicentenary Siege san marco | T
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san marco | 74 The Procuratie a dev
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san marco | The Piazzetta and the M
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san marco | North of the Piazza him
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san marco | 80 North of the Piazza
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san marco West of the Piazza | 86
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The 1996 Fenice fire san marco | 88
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san marco | West of the Piazza 90
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san marco | 92 West of the Piazza b
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2 Dorsoduro dorsoduro There | were
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dorsoduro | 96 The Accademia - but
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dorsoduro | 98 The Accademia 1560s)
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The street cuts down almost as far
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dorsoduro | 102 Eastern Dorsoduro R
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dorsoduro | 104 The Záttere and we
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dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro by o
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dorsoduro | 108 Northern Dorsoduro
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dorsoduro | 110 Northern Dorsoduro
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dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro Gian
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Carnevale John Evelyn wrote of the
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The Regata Storica Held on the firs
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San Polo and Santa Croce | From the
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San Polo and Santa Croce | 120 From
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Aldus Manutius San Polo and Santa C
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Christ by Vittoria, and a Virgin an
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4 Cannaregio | From the train stati
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Cannaregio | From the train station
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paintings in Venice that is compara
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Cannaregio The Ghetto | 144 The Gh
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Cannaregio | 146 Northern Cannaregi
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to the chapel containing Tintoretto
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Cannaregio | 150 Southern and easte
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city. Those who haven’t acquired
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Cannaregio Southern and eastern Can
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The Fondamente Nove The long waterf
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5 Central Castello central castello
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central castello Campo Santi Giovan
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central castello | 162 Campo Santi
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order the square, the most impressi
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central castello | 170 Campo Santa
Page 178 and 179: central castello | 172 San Zaccaria
Page 180 and 181: central castello | 174 San Zaccaria
Page 182 and 183: central castello | San Zaccaria to
Page 184 and 185: eastern castello | San Francesco de
Page 186 and 187: eastern castello | 180 San Francesc
Page 188 and 189: white dog in the final one. The sce
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Page 194 and 195: statue of Admiral Angelo Emo (1792)
Page 196 and 197: eastern castello | Beyond the Arsen
Page 198 and 199: the canal grande | The Left Bank 19
Page 200 and 201: the canal grande The Left Bank | 19
Page 202 and 203: the canal grande | 196 The Left Ban
Page 204 and 205: the canal grande | The Right Bank s
Page 206 and 207: the canal grande | 200 The Right Ba
Page 208 and 209: From the Ca’ Rezzonico to the Dog
Page 210 and 211: the canal grande | The Right Bank r
Page 212 and 213: the northern islands San Michele |
Page 214 and 215: the highest funeral honour the city
Page 216 and 217: Venetian glass the northern islands
Page 218 and 219: the northern islands | 212 Burano a
Page 220 and 221: the northern islands | Torcello the
Page 222 and 223: Saint Fosca, brought to Torcello fr
Page 224 and 225: draws thousands of people to its be
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Page 230 and 231: Damiano, having been left to crumbl
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Page 234 and 235: the southern islands | 228 From the
Page 236 and 237: the southern islands | 230 San Lazz
Page 238 and 239: can now be seen. Lazzaretto Vecchio
Page 240 and 241: Listings 10 Accommodation 235-248 1
Page 242 and 243: 236 accommodation | Hotels Hotels V
Page 244 and 245: 238 accommodation | Hotels Santo St
Page 246 and 247: 240 accommodation | Hotels San Cass
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Page 250 and 251: 244 accommodation | Hotels Sant’A
Page 252 and 253: accommodation Bed & Breakfast • S
Page 254 and 255: per night on average. They take boo
Page 256 and 257: isn’t a Venetian speciality. Take
Page 258 and 259: 252 Eating and drinking | Restauran
Page 260 and 261: Eating and drinking | Restaurants 2
Page 262 and 263: 256 Eating and drinking | Restauran
Page 264 and 265: Methods and materials One of the at
Page 266 and 267: h Ca’ Pèsaro The floor plan Vene
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Page 272 and 273: Late-night drinking The following p
Page 274 and 275: Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
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Santa Margherita, Campiello dell’
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nightlife and the arts Music and th
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joint called Club Malvasia Vecchia
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nightlife and the arts | Other exhi
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Margherita 2928. Mon-Fri 8am-1pm &
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shopping Glass • Jewellery | boat
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shopping | Masks Ca’ Macana 280
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an interesting line in personalized
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Directory | 284 Giovanni e Paolo, t
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The Veneto 287
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The Veneto: practicalities The admi
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ments - which sometimes means no se
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L Padua and the southern Veneto Sum
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Hoi polloi can get to Malcontenta f
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and the dining room has a ceiling f
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of the twelfth century, when it bec
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This is the nearest campsite to Pad
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century works, including four myste
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Menabuoi have survived. Most of the
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Monument to Gattamelata decorated c
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and 1577, they are the most importa
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ut the vast Saturday market, groups
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season’s events can be obtained f
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From the train station, the route t
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train ride from Monsélice (9 daily
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Walls of Montagnana Practicalities
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is La Rotonda (April-Oct daily 8am-
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A few of these villas are of intere
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Bèrico; the downside is that it’
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Andrea Palladio Born in Padua in 15
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finished until the second decade of
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Palladio’s rugged Palazzo Thiene,
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ers in 899 and then by earthquakes
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in Rome in the service of the papac
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Montecchio’s other attractions, a
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From the main train station (Verona
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Vicenza, Verona and around | Verona
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Combined tickets A biglietto unico,
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in a room off the courtyard of the
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loody feuds being commonplace (the
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Its large rose window, representing
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For a non-alcoholic indulgence, sit
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Listings American Express c/o H.P.T
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Treviso today is a brisk commercial
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dressing stone led in the thirteent
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Agnes and John by Tomaso himself, o
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(t0422.411.661, wwww.hotelcarlton.i
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at Borgo Treviso 73, opposite the t
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century mistakes. It’s better kno
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the bridge in 1948). The river was
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The Town Maróstica was run by the
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The Gipsoteca and Casa Canova The p
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The Town The main road into town fr
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Venetians who were then beginning t
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to some it was Castaldi rather than
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Cima exemplifies the conservative s
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Oct-April 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm; e
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(named after a group of partisans e
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Contexts 385
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A brief history of Venice In the mi
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Antonio Venier 1382-1400 Michele St
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The Genoese Wars The enmities creat
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and the new ruler of Milan, Frances
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No sooner was the Interdict out of
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works of art. The Austrians’ urba
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airport and Mestre. Apologists for
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Greco (1545-1614) worked with the M
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High Renaissance painting While the
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Malipiero, is pictorially flat and
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An outline of Venetian architecture
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San Zanipolo (Dominican) and the Fr
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death of Bartolomeo Bon in 1529, a
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church of this period - San Simeone
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ebuilt, reintroducing industry and
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have been extended within a grid of
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inside and excreting white crusts o
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Romanticism. Lots of passion and pa
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choice of pictures are exemplary. A
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to the history of Venice between th
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series of itineraries of the city f
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Language 429
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Language Although it’s not uncomm
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Numbers 1 uno 2 due 3 tre 4 quattro
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In the restaurant A table I’d lik
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Pasta Cannelloni Farfalle Fettucine
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Pecorino Provolone Ricotta Strong-t
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Glossary of Italian words Italian w
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Travel store
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Travel store
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A Rough Guide to Rough Guides Publi
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Acknowledgements and readers’ let
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index | 456 Campo Santi Giovanni e
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index | 458 Luzzo, Lorenzo.........
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index | 460 Pisanello.......152, 34
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index | 462 Tiepolo, Doge Giacomo..
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Map symbols maps are listed in the
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The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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