The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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San Polo and Santa Croce | From the Rialto to San Simeone Piccolo 118 The Pescheria
Sex on the Rialto The connection between wealth and moral turpitude was exemplified by the Rialto, which was almost as famous for its fleshpots as for its cashboxes. A sixteenthcentury survey showed that there were about 3000 patrician women in the city, but over 11,000 prostitutes and courtesans, the majority of them based in the banking quarter. (Courtesans were self-sufficient and costlier women who usually lived in their own homes or with a small number of similarly upmarket women.) Two Venetian brothels – the state-run Casteletto, which was especially esteemed for the literary and musical talents of its staff, and the privately operated Carampane – were officially sanctioned; both were in the Rialto and operated in the same manner, with curfews, armed guards, and a system for sharing the total revenue equally among the staff. These establishments were founded in the fourteenth century, and efforts were then made to limit prostitution to the Rialto, but by the end of the following century there were brothels all over the city, prompting one writer to remark that “Venice seems to me to have been made a bordello”. The Catalogue of the Chief and Most Renowned Courtesans of Venice, a directory that told you everything you needed to know (right down to prices) became a perennial bestseller, and if Thomas Coryat’s report of 1608 is anything to go by, the courtesans were seen by some as the city’s main attraction – “So infinite are the allurements of these amorous Calypsoes that the fame of them hath drawn many to Venice from some of the remotest parts of Christendome.” Coryat, like so many male observers and customers of the city’s “Calypsoes”, was happy to perpetuate the myth that these women were happy in their work. That so many Venetian courtesans were the well-educated offspring of “good” families seemed to indicate that their profession was a matter of free choice. But in a society in which sons were generally the major (and often the sole) beneficiaries of their parents’ wills, and fathers were often reluctant to disperse the family fortune by lavishing dowries on their daughters, many young women could expect to be dispatched to a convent as adulthood approached if no wealthy suitor were on the horizon. It’s thus hardly surprising in these circumstances that a large number of patrician women should choose a way of life that at least offered the prospect of independence and a social life. But even the most celebrated of the city’s courtesans, Veronica Franco, a woman whose beauty and intellectual distinction were praised by princes and writers, was adamant that the cost of selling herself was too great: “to subject one’s body and industry to a servitude whose very thought is most frightful . . . What greater misery What riches, what comforts, what delights can possibly outweigh all this” From the Pescheria to Santa Maria Mater Domini Once past the Pescheria, you’re into a district which quickly becomes labyrinthine even by Venetian standards. A stroll between the Rio delle Beccarie and the Rio di San Zan Degolà will satisfy any addict of the picturesque – you cannot walk for more than a couple of minutes without coming across a workshop crammed into a ground-floor room or a garden spilling over a canalside wall. The barn-like church of San Cassiano (daily 9am–noon & 5–7pm) is a building you’re bound to pass as you wander out of the Rialto. The thirteenth-century campanile is the only appealing aspect of the exterior, and the interest of the interior lies mainly with its three paintings by Tintoretto: The Resurrection, The Descent into Limbo and The Crucifixion (all 1565–68). The first two have been mauled by restorers, but the third is one of the most startling pictures in Venice – centred on the ladder on which the executioners stand, it’s painted as though the San Polo and Santa Croce | From the Rialto to San Simeone Piccolo 119
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ROUGHGUIDES THE ROUGH GUIDE to Veni
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The Rough Guide to Venice & the Ven
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| IntRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHen
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The G
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | Ciche
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The M
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Basics Getting there ..............
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BASICS | Getting there 20 Christmas
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BASICS | Getting there 22 if you tr
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BASICS | The media Airlines in Aust
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BASICS | Travel essentials of model
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BASICS | Travel essentials 28 probl
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BASICS | Travel essentials 30 and i
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BASICS | Travel essentials includin
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The City Venice: the practicalities
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36 venice: the Practicalities | San
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38 venice: the Practicalities | Wat
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7.50pm); San Marcuola-Fondaco dei T
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Frari Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 1-6pm; e
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san marco The Piazza | 44
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san marco | The Piazza 46 orchard o
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san marco | The Basilica di San Mar
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san marco | 50 The Basilica di San
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san marco | The Palazzo Ducale 60 A
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The Government of Venice san marco
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in as to how much of the building i
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san marco | 66 The Palazzo Ducale o
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san marco | 68 The Palazzo Ducale o
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san marco | The Campanile and the C
Page 74 and 75: The Bicentenary Siege san marco | T
Page 76 and 77: san marco | 74 The Procuratie a dev
Page 78 and 79: san marco | The Piazzetta and the M
Page 80 and 81: san marco | North of the Piazza him
Page 82 and 83: san marco | 80 North of the Piazza
Page 88 and 89: san marco West of the Piazza | 86
Page 90 and 91: The 1996 Fenice fire san marco | 88
Page 92 and 93: san marco | West of the Piazza 90
Page 94 and 95: san marco | 92 West of the Piazza b
Page 96 and 97: 2 Dorsoduro dorsoduro There | were
Page 98 and 99: dorsoduro | 96 The Accademia - but
Page 100 and 101: dorsoduro | 98 The Accademia 1560s)
Page 102 and 103: The street cuts down almost as far
Page 104 and 105: dorsoduro | 102 Eastern Dorsoduro R
Page 106 and 107: dorsoduro | 104 The Záttere and we
Page 108 and 109: dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro by o
Page 110 and 111: dorsoduro | 108 Northern Dorsoduro
Page 112 and 113: dorsoduro | 110 Northern Dorsoduro
Page 114 and 115: dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro Gian
Page 116 and 117: Carnevale John Evelyn wrote of the
Page 118 and 119: The Regata Storica Held on the firs
Page 120 and 121: San Polo and Santa Croce | From the
Page 122 and 123: San Polo and Santa Croce | From the
Page 126 and 127: San Polo and Santa Croce | 120 From
Page 132 and 133: Aldus Manutius San Polo and Santa C
Page 136 and 137: Christ by Vittoria, and a Virgin an
Page 144 and 145: 4 Cannaregio | From the train stati
Page 146 and 147: Cannaregio | From the train station
Page 148 and 149: paintings in Venice that is compara
Page 150 and 151: Cannaregio The Ghetto | 144 The Gh
Page 152 and 153: Cannaregio | 146 Northern Cannaregi
Page 154 and 155: to the chapel containing Tintoretto
Page 156 and 157: Cannaregio | 150 Southern and easte
Page 158 and 159: city. Those who haven’t acquired
Page 160 and 161: Cannaregio Southern and eastern Can
Page 162 and 163: The Fondamente Nove The long waterf
Page 164 and 165: 5 Central Castello central castello
Page 166 and 167: central castello Campo Santi Giovan
Page 168 and 169: central castello | 162 Campo Santi
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order the square, the most impressi
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central castello | 170 Campo Santa
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central castello | 172 San Zaccaria
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central castello | 174 San Zaccaria
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central castello | San Zaccaria to
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eastern castello | San Francesco de
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eastern castello | 180 San Francesc
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white dog in the final one. The sce
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Follow the fondamenta south from Sa
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a less precisely classical storey -
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statue of Admiral Angelo Emo (1792)
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eastern castello | Beyond the Arsen
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the canal grande | The Left Bank 19
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the canal grande The Left Bank | 19
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the canal grande | 196 The Left Ban
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the canal grande | The Right Bank s
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the canal grande | 200 The Right Ba
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From the Ca’ Rezzonico to the Dog
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the canal grande | The Right Bank r
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the northern islands San Michele |
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the highest funeral honour the city
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Venetian glass the northern islands
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the northern islands | 212 Burano a
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the northern islands | Torcello the
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Saint Fosca, brought to Torcello fr
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draws thousands of people to its be
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gatekeeper might do the trick if he
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the southern islands | La Giudecca
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Damiano, having been left to crumbl
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and southern ends of the island - t
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the southern islands | 228 From the
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the southern islands | 230 San Lazz
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can now be seen. Lazzaretto Vecchio
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Listings 10 Accommodation 235-248 1
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236 accommodation | Hotels Hotels V
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238 accommodation | Hotels Santo St
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240 accommodation | Hotels San Cass
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the continent - provided you book a
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244 accommodation | Hotels Sant’A
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accommodation Bed & Breakfast • S
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per night on average. They take boo
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isn’t a Venetian speciality. Take
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252 Eating and drinking | Restauran
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Eating and drinking | Restaurants 2
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256 Eating and drinking | Restauran
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Methods and materials One of the at
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h Ca’ Pèsaro The floor plan Vene
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evening & all Tues. Moderate. Da Re
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Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
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Late-night drinking The following p
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Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
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Eating and drinking Cafés, pasticc
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Santa Margherita, Campiello dell’
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nightlife and the arts Music and th
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joint called Club Malvasia Vecchia
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nightlife and the arts | Other exhi
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Margherita 2928. Mon-Fri 8am-1pm &
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shopping Glass • Jewellery | boat
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shopping | Masks Ca’ Macana 280
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an interesting line in personalized
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Directory | 284 Giovanni e Paolo, t
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The Veneto 287
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The Veneto: practicalities The admi
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ments - which sometimes means no se
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L Padua and the southern Veneto Sum
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Hoi polloi can get to Malcontenta f
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and the dining room has a ceiling f
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of the twelfth century, when it bec
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This is the nearest campsite to Pad
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century works, including four myste
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Menabuoi have survived. Most of the
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Monument to Gattamelata decorated c
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and 1577, they are the most importa
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ut the vast Saturday market, groups
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season’s events can be obtained f
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From the train station, the route t
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train ride from Monsélice (9 daily
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Walls of Montagnana Practicalities
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is La Rotonda (April-Oct daily 8am-
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A few of these villas are of intere
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Bèrico; the downside is that it’
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Andrea Palladio Born in Padua in 15
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finished until the second decade of
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Palladio’s rugged Palazzo Thiene,
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ers in 899 and then by earthquakes
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in Rome in the service of the papac
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Montecchio’s other attractions, a
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From the main train station (Verona
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Vicenza, Verona and around | Verona
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Combined tickets A biglietto unico,
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in a room off the courtyard of the
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loody feuds being commonplace (the
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Its large rose window, representing
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For a non-alcoholic indulgence, sit
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Listings American Express c/o H.P.T
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Treviso today is a brisk commercial
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dressing stone led in the thirteent
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Agnes and John by Tomaso himself, o
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(t0422.411.661, wwww.hotelcarlton.i
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at Borgo Treviso 73, opposite the t
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century mistakes. It’s better kno
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the bridge in 1948). The river was
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The Town Maróstica was run by the
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The Gipsoteca and Casa Canova The p
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The Town The main road into town fr
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Venetians who were then beginning t
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to some it was Castaldi rather than
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Cima exemplifies the conservative s
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Oct-April 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm; e
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(named after a group of partisans e
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Contexts 385
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A brief history of Venice In the mi
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Antonio Venier 1382-1400 Michele St
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The Genoese Wars The enmities creat
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and the new ruler of Milan, Frances
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No sooner was the Interdict out of
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works of art. The Austrians’ urba
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airport and Mestre. Apologists for
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Greco (1545-1614) worked with the M
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High Renaissance painting While the
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Malipiero, is pictorially flat and
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An outline of Venetian architecture
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San Zanipolo (Dominican) and the Fr
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death of Bartolomeo Bon in 1529, a
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church of this period - San Simeone
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ebuilt, reintroducing industry and
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have been extended within a grid of
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inside and excreting white crusts o
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Romanticism. Lots of passion and pa
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choice of pictures are exemplary. A
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to the history of Venice between th
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series of itineraries of the city f
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Language 429
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Language Although it’s not uncomm
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Numbers 1 uno 2 due 3 tre 4 quattro
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In the restaurant A table I’d lik
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Pasta Cannelloni Farfalle Fettucine
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Pecorino Provolone Ricotta Strong-t
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Glossary of Italian words Italian w
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Travel store
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Travel store
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A Rough Guide to Rough Guides Publi
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Acknowledgements and readers’ let
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index | 456 Campo Santi Giovanni e
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index | 458 Luzzo, Lorenzo.........
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index | 460 Pisanello.......152, 34
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index | 462 Tiepolo, Doge Giacomo..
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Map symbols maps are listed in the
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