The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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evening & all Tues. Moderate. Da Remigio Salizzada dei Greci 3416 t041.523.0089. Superb trattoria, serving excellent fish dishes and gorgeous homemade gnocchi. The wine list is outstanding too. Be sure to book – the locals (and increasing numbers of tourists) pack this place every night. Closed Mon evening & all Tues. Moderate to expensive. Osteria di Santa Marina Campo Santa Marina 5911 t041.528.5239. A very slick and very good operation offering imaginative variants on Venetian maritime standards (eg raw fish starters). Expect to pay around e60 per person. Closed all Sun & Mon lunch. Expensive. Eastern Castello See map on p.178. Ae do Marie Calle dell’Ogio 3129 t041.296.0424. Established a century ago, Ae do Marie was once a simple bácaro but has now been refurbished as a restaurant, serving honest food at honest prices to a predominantly local clientele. Closed Mon. Inexpensive to moderate. Al Covo Campiello della Pescaria 3968 t041.522.3812. Located in a backwater to the east of Campo Bandiera e Moro, the innovative Covo has a consistently good reputation in the city, partly because it makes no use of frozen or farmed fish. Eating and drinking | Restaurants 258 Corte Sconta
Closed Wed & Thurs, and mid-Dec to mid- Jan. Expensive. Corte Sconta Calle del Pestrin 3886 t041.522.7024. Secreted in a lane to the east of San Giovanni in Brágora, on the route to San Martino, this restaurant is a candidate for the title of Venice’s finest. The exceptionally pleasant staff tend to make it difficult to resist ordering the day’s specials, which could easily result in a bill in the region of e70 each – and it would be just about the best meal you could get in Venice for that price. If expenditure is an issue, check the menu in the window carefully before going in (often the waiters will simply recite what’s on offer rather than give you anything printed). Booking several days in advance is essential for most of the year. Closed Sun & Mon. Expensive to very expensive. Da Franz Fondamenta S. Isepo 754 t041.522.0861. Lurking in an extremely unfashionable area to the north of the Giardini Pubblici, this is one of the most refined and most celebrated seafood kitchens in the city. Closed Tues. Very expensive. Da Paolo Campo dell’Arsenale 2389 t041.521.0660. Simple, good-value bar-pizzeria-trattoria that’s long been a firm favourite with Biennale regulars and natives of this region of Castello. Closed Mon. Inexpensive to moderate. Dai Tosi Calle Secco Marina 738 t041.523.7102. Lively pizzeria-trattoria with a devoted local clientele – you’d be well advised to book at the weekend. There’s a bar in front of the small dining room, where they mix the house aperitif: sgropino, a delicious mingling of vodka, peach juice, Aperol and prosecco. Not to be confused with the establishment of the same name in the same street. Open till 11.30pm; closed Wed, and the kitchen often also closes Mon, Tues and/or Thurs in winter. Inexpensive to moderate. Osteria Sant’Elena Calle Chinotto 24 t041.520.8419. Known to the locals as Dal Pampo, in honour of the boss, this genuine neighbourhood restaurant is the preserve of the residents of Sant’Elena except when the Biennale is in full swing. The menu is simple, the cooking good. There’s a bar serving cicheti at the front; outside tables add to the appeal. The quickest way there is to follow the path that leads straight ahead from the bridge after the Biennale grounds – this takes you across the Parco delle Rimembranze to Calle Chinotto. Open till midnight; closed Tues. Inexpensive to moderate. Northern islands Al Gatto Nero Fondamenta Giudecca 88, Burano t041.730.120. Outstanding local trattoria, just a few minutes’ walk from the busy Via Galuppi, opposite the Pescheria. Max, the owner, is a keen fisherman, and what he doesn’t know about the marine delicacies of Venice isn’t worth knowing. Closed Mon. Moderate to expensive. Al Ponte del Diavolo Fondamenta Borgognoni 10/11, Torcello t041.730.401. See map on p.213. The most pleasant restaurant on Torcello, just before the bridge it takes its name from, on the canal leading from the boat to the cathedral. Delightful shaded terrace overlooking the garden. Open for lunch everyday except Wed, booking essential at weekends. Only opens in evenings for group bookings. Moderate. Antica Trattoria Muranese Riva Longa 20, Murano t041.739.610. See map on p.209. If you fancy a meal on Murano but the Busa alla Torre is closed or too busy, this is the place to go. Pleasant garden. Closed Wed. Moderate. Busa alla Torre Campo S. Stefano 3, Murano t041.739.662. By general agreement, this trattoria is the finest fish restaurant on Murano. Closed Mon. Moderate. Dal Baffo Via Galuppi 359, Burano t041.730.108. See map on p.213. A good choice for a simple frittura mista, if there’s a seat in the tiny dining room (there are more tables outside in summer). Closes at 8pm. Closed Wed. Moderate. Da Romano Via Galuppi 221, Burano t041.730.030. See map on p.213. Huge old Burano restaurant with no lack of local devotees. Closed Tues. Moderate to expensive. Leon Coronato Piazza Galuppi 314, Burano t041 730.230. See map on p.213. This homely, friendly and dependable trattoria serves the best pizzas on Burano. Closed Tues. Inexpensive. Southern islands Ai Tre Scaini Calle Michelangelo 53c, Giudecca t041.522.4790. See map on p.220. Rough and ready local trattoria, drawing 99 percent of its custom from the Giudecca housing estates. The food is more than passable, Eating and drinking | Restaurants 259
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ROUGHGUIDES THE ROUGH GUIDE to Veni
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The Rough Guide to Venice & the Ven
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| IntRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE to GO | WHEN
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| INTRODUCTION | WHERE TO GO | WHen
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The G
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | Ciche
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| consUME | EVents | SIGHTS | The M
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Basics Getting there ..............
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BASICS | Getting there 20 Christmas
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BASICS | Getting there 22 if you tr
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BASICS | The media Airlines in Aust
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BASICS | Travel essentials of model
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BASICS | Travel essentials 28 probl
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BASICS | Travel essentials 30 and i
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BASICS | Travel essentials includin
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The City Venice: the practicalities
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36 venice: the Practicalities | San
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38 venice: the Practicalities | Wat
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7.50pm); San Marcuola-Fondaco dei T
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Frari Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 1-6pm; e
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san marco The Piazza | 44
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san marco | The Piazza 46 orchard o
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san marco | The Basilica di San Mar
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san marco | 50 The Basilica di San
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san marco | The Palazzo Ducale 60 A
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The Government of Venice san marco
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in as to how much of the building i
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san marco | 66 The Palazzo Ducale o
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san marco | 68 The Palazzo Ducale o
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san marco | The Campanile and the C
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The Bicentenary Siege san marco | T
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san marco | 74 The Procuratie a dev
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san marco | The Piazzetta and the M
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san marco | North of the Piazza him
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san marco | 80 North of the Piazza
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san marco West of the Piazza | 86
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The 1996 Fenice fire san marco | 88
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san marco | West of the Piazza 90
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san marco | 92 West of the Piazza b
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2 Dorsoduro dorsoduro There | were
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dorsoduro | 96 The Accademia - but
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dorsoduro | 98 The Accademia 1560s)
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The street cuts down almost as far
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dorsoduro | 102 Eastern Dorsoduro R
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dorsoduro | 104 The Záttere and we
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dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro by o
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dorsoduro | 108 Northern Dorsoduro
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dorsoduro | 110 Northern Dorsoduro
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dorsoduro | Northern Dorsoduro Gian
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Carnevale John Evelyn wrote of the
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The Regata Storica Held on the firs
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San Polo and Santa Croce | From the
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San Polo and Santa Croce | 120 From
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Aldus Manutius San Polo and Santa C
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Christ by Vittoria, and a Virgin an
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4 Cannaregio | From the train stati
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Cannaregio | From the train station
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paintings in Venice that is compara
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Cannaregio The Ghetto | 144 The Gh
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Cannaregio | 146 Northern Cannaregi
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to the chapel containing Tintoretto
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Cannaregio | 150 Southern and easte
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city. Those who haven’t acquired
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Cannaregio Southern and eastern Can
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The Fondamente Nove The long waterf
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5 Central Castello central castello
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central castello Campo Santi Giovan
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central castello | 162 Campo Santi
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order the square, the most impressi
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central castello | 170 Campo Santa
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central castello | 172 San Zaccaria
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central castello | 174 San Zaccaria
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central castello | San Zaccaria to
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eastern castello | San Francesco de
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eastern castello | 180 San Francesc
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white dog in the final one. The sce
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Follow the fondamenta south from Sa
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a less precisely classical storey -
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statue of Admiral Angelo Emo (1792)
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eastern castello | Beyond the Arsen
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the canal grande | The Left Bank 19
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the canal grande The Left Bank | 19
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the canal grande | 196 The Left Ban
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the canal grande | The Right Bank s
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the canal grande | 200 The Right Ba
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From the Ca’ Rezzonico to the Dog
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the canal grande | The Right Bank r
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the northern islands San Michele |
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the highest funeral honour the city
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Venetian glass the northern islands
Page 218 and 219: the northern islands | 212 Burano a
Page 220 and 221: the northern islands | Torcello the
Page 222 and 223: Saint Fosca, brought to Torcello fr
Page 224 and 225: draws thousands of people to its be
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Page 228 and 229: the southern islands | La Giudecca
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Page 232 and 233: and southern ends of the island - t
Page 234 and 235: the southern islands | 228 From the
Page 236 and 237: the southern islands | 230 San Lazz
Page 238 and 239: can now be seen. Lazzaretto Vecchio
Page 240 and 241: Listings 10 Accommodation 235-248 1
Page 242 and 243: 236 accommodation | Hotels Hotels V
Page 244 and 245: 238 accommodation | Hotels Santo St
Page 246 and 247: 240 accommodation | Hotels San Cass
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Page 250 and 251: 244 accommodation | Hotels Sant’A
Page 252 and 253: accommodation Bed & Breakfast • S
Page 254 and 255: per night on average. They take boo
Page 256 and 257: isn’t a Venetian speciality. Take
Page 258 and 259: 252 Eating and drinking | Restauran
Page 260 and 261: Eating and drinking | Restaurants 2
Page 262 and 263: 256 Eating and drinking | Restauran
Page 264 and 265: Methods and materials One of the at
Page 266 and 267: h Ca’ Pèsaro The floor plan Vene
Page 270 and 271: Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
Page 272 and 273: Late-night drinking The following p
Page 274 and 275: Eating and drinking Bars and snacks
Page 276 and 277: Eating and drinking Cafés, pasticc
Page 278 and 279: Santa Margherita, Campiello dell’
Page 280 and 281: nightlife and the arts Music and th
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Page 284 and 285: nightlife and the arts | Other exhi
Page 286 and 287: Margherita 2928. Mon-Fri 8am-1pm &
Page 288 and 289: shopping Glass • Jewellery | boat
Page 290 and 291: shopping | Masks Ca’ Macana 280
Page 292 and 293: an interesting line in personalized
Page 294 and 295: Directory | 284 Giovanni e Paolo, t
Page 297 and 298: The Veneto 287
Page 299 and 300: The Veneto: practicalities The admi
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Page 307 and 308: and the dining room has a ceiling f
Page 309 and 310: of the twelfth century, when it bec
Page 311 and 312: This is the nearest campsite to Pad
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Page 315 and 316: Menabuoi have survived. Most of the
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and 1577, they are the most importa
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ut the vast Saturday market, groups
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season’s events can be obtained f
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From the train station, the route t
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train ride from Monsélice (9 daily
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Walls of Montagnana Practicalities
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is La Rotonda (April-Oct daily 8am-
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A few of these villas are of intere
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Bèrico; the downside is that it’
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Andrea Palladio Born in Padua in 15
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finished until the second decade of
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Palladio’s rugged Palazzo Thiene,
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ers in 899 and then by earthquakes
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in Rome in the service of the papac
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Montecchio’s other attractions, a
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From the main train station (Verona
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Vicenza, Verona and around | Verona
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Combined tickets A biglietto unico,
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in a room off the courtyard of the
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loody feuds being commonplace (the
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Its large rose window, representing
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For a non-alcoholic indulgence, sit
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Listings American Express c/o H.P.T
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Treviso today is a brisk commercial
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dressing stone led in the thirteent
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Agnes and John by Tomaso himself, o
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(t0422.411.661, wwww.hotelcarlton.i
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at Borgo Treviso 73, opposite the t
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century mistakes. It’s better kno
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the bridge in 1948). The river was
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The Town Maróstica was run by the
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The Gipsoteca and Casa Canova The p
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The Town The main road into town fr
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Venetians who were then beginning t
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to some it was Castaldi rather than
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Cima exemplifies the conservative s
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Oct-April 9.30am-12.30pm & 2-5pm; e
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(named after a group of partisans e
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Contexts 385
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A brief history of Venice In the mi
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Antonio Venier 1382-1400 Michele St
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The Genoese Wars The enmities creat
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and the new ruler of Milan, Frances
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No sooner was the Interdict out of
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works of art. The Austrians’ urba
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airport and Mestre. Apologists for
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Greco (1545-1614) worked with the M
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High Renaissance painting While the
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Malipiero, is pictorially flat and
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An outline of Venetian architecture
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San Zanipolo (Dominican) and the Fr
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death of Bartolomeo Bon in 1529, a
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church of this period - San Simeone
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ebuilt, reintroducing industry and
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have been extended within a grid of
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inside and excreting white crusts o
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Romanticism. Lots of passion and pa
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choice of pictures are exemplary. A
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to the history of Venice between th
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series of itineraries of the city f
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Language 429
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Language Although it’s not uncomm
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Numbers 1 uno 2 due 3 tre 4 quattro
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In the restaurant A table I’d lik
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Pasta Cannelloni Farfalle Fettucine
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Pecorino Provolone Ricotta Strong-t
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Glossary of Italian words Italian w
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Travel store
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Travel store
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A Rough Guide to Rough Guides Publi
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Acknowledgements and readers’ let
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index | 456 Campo Santi Giovanni e
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index | 458 Luzzo, Lorenzo.........
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index | 460 Pisanello.......152, 34
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index | 462 Tiepolo, Doge Giacomo..
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Map symbols maps are listed in the
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The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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