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The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

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Treviso <strong>to</strong>day is a brisk commercial centre <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> capital of a province that<br />

extends <strong>to</strong> <strong>the</strong> north almost as far as Belluno. As with every settlement in <strong>the</strong><br />

area, it used <strong>to</strong> be under Venetian control, but it was an important <strong>to</strong>wn long<br />

before its assimilation by <strong>Venice</strong> in 1389. As early as <strong>the</strong> eighth century it was<br />

minting its own coinage, <strong>and</strong> by <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> thirteenth century, when it<br />

was ruled by <strong>the</strong> Da Camino family, Treviso was renowned as a refuge for<br />

artists <strong>and</strong> poets, <strong>and</strong> a model of good government. (Dante, in <strong>the</strong> Purga<strong>to</strong>rio,<br />

praises Gherardo da Camino as a man “left from a vanished race in reproof <strong>to</strong><br />

<strong>the</strong>se unruly times”.) Plenty of evidence of <strong>the</strong> <strong>to</strong>wn’s early stature survives in<br />

<strong>the</strong> form of Gothic churches, public buildings <strong>and</strong>, most dramatically of all,<br />

<strong>the</strong> paintings of Tomaso da Modena (1325–79), <strong>the</strong> dominant artist in nor<strong>the</strong>rn<br />

Italy in <strong>the</strong> years immediately after Giot<strong>to</strong>’s death. <strong>The</strong> general <strong>to</strong>wnscape<br />

within Treviso’s sixteenth-century walls is often appealing <strong>to</strong>o. A lack of local<br />

<strong>the</strong> nor<strong>the</strong>rn vene<strong>to</strong><br />

| Treviso<br />

355

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