The Rough Guide to Venice and the Veneto

Closed Wed & Thurs, and mid-Dec to mid-
Jan. Expensive.
Corte Sconta Calle del Pestrin 3886
t041.522.7024. Secreted in a lane
to the east of San Giovanni in Brágora, on
the route to San Martino, this restaurant is
a candidate for the title of Venice’s finest.
The exceptionally pleasant staff tend to
make it difficult to resist ordering the day’s
specials, which could easily result in a bill
in the region of e70 each – and it would
be just about the best meal you could get
in Venice for that price. If expenditure is
an issue, check the menu in the window
carefully before going in (often the waiters
will simply recite what’s on offer rather than
give you anything printed). Booking several
days in advance is essential for most of the
year. Closed Sun & Mon. Expensive to very
expensive.
Da Franz Fondamenta S. Isepo 754
t041.522.0861. Lurking in an extremely
unfashionable area to the north of the Giardini
Pubblici, this is one of the most refined
and most celebrated seafood kitchens in
the city. Closed Tues. Very expensive.
Da Paolo Campo dell’Arsenale 2389
t041.521.0660. Simple, good-value bar-pizzeria-trattoria
that’s long been a firm favourite
with Biennale regulars and natives of this
region of Castello. Closed Mon. Inexpensive
to moderate.
Dai Tosi Calle Secco Marina 738
t041.523.7102. Lively pizzeria-trattoria
with a devoted local clientele – you’d
be well advised to book at the weekend.
There’s a bar in front of the small dining
room, where they mix the house aperitif:
sgropino, a delicious mingling of vodka,
peach juice, Aperol and prosecco. Not to
be confused with the establishment of the
same name in the same street. Open till
11.30pm; closed Wed, and the kitchen
often also closes Mon, Tues and/or Thurs in
winter. Inexpensive to moderate.
Osteria Sant’Elena Calle Chinotto 24
t041.520.8419. Known to the locals as Dal
Pampo, in honour of the boss, this genuine
neighbourhood restaurant is the preserve of
the residents of Sant’Elena except when the
Biennale is in full swing. The menu is simple,
the cooking good. There’s a bar serving
cicheti at the front; outside tables add to
the appeal. The quickest way there is to follow
the path that leads straight ahead from
the bridge after the Biennale grounds – this
takes you across the Parco delle Rimembranze
to Calle Chinotto. Open till midnight;
closed Tues. Inexpensive to moderate.
Northern islands
Al Gatto Nero Fondamenta Giudecca 88,
Burano t041.730.120. Outstanding
local trattoria, just a few minutes’ walk from
the busy Via Galuppi, opposite the Pescheria.
Max, the owner, is a keen fisherman,
and what he doesn’t know about the marine
delicacies of Venice isn’t worth knowing.
Closed Mon. Moderate to expensive.
Al Ponte del Diavolo Fondamenta Borgognoni
10/11, Torcello t041.730.401. See map on
p.213. The most pleasant restaurant on
Torcello, just before the bridge it takes its
name from, on the canal leading from the
boat to the cathedral. Delightful shaded terrace
overlooking the garden. Open for lunch
everyday except Wed, booking essential
at weekends. Only opens in evenings for
group bookings. Moderate.
Antica Trattoria Muranese Riva Longa 20,
Murano t041.739.610. See map on p.209. If
you fancy a meal on Murano but the Busa
alla Torre is closed or too busy, this is the
place to go. Pleasant garden. Closed Wed.
Moderate.
Busa alla Torre Campo S. Stefano 3, Murano
t041.739.662. By general agreement, this
trattoria is the finest fish restaurant on
Murano. Closed Mon. Moderate.
Dal Baffo Via Galuppi 359, Burano
t041.730.108. See map on p.213. A good
choice for a simple frittura mista, if there’s a
seat in the tiny dining room (there are more
tables outside in summer). Closes at 8pm.
Closed Wed. Moderate.
Da Romano Via Galuppi 221, Burano
t041.730.030. See map on p.213. Huge old
Burano restaurant with no lack of local devotees.
Closed Tues. Moderate to expensive.
Leon Coronato Piazza Galuppi 314, Burano
t041 730.230. See map on p.213. This homely,
friendly and dependable trattoria serves
the best pizzas on Burano. Closed Tues.
Inexpensive.
Southern islands
Ai Tre Scaini Calle Michelangelo 53c, Giudecca
t041.522.4790. See map on p.220. Rough
and ready local trattoria, drawing 99 percent
of its custom from the Giudecca housing
estates. The food is more than passable,
Eating and drinking
| Restaurants
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