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SECTION 1 2 3<br />
WHAT CAN BE DONE<br />
Some MNCs have taken voluntary steps towards improving the lot of their<br />
workers. Unilever, International Procurement and Logistics (IPL) and the Ethical<br />
Tea Partnership have acknowledged the labour issues identified by Oxfam in<br />
recent joint studies and are implementing plans to address them. 346 H&M has<br />
published a ‘road map to a living wage’, starting with three factories in<br />
Bangladesh and Cambodia, which produce 100 percent for the company. 347<br />
In the UK, 800 companies have been accredited as living wage employers,<br />
including Nestlé, KPMG and HSBC. 348 In another hopeful sign, Bangladesh’s<br />
Accord on Fire and Building Safety now has more than 180 corporate members,<br />
and has brought brands, industry, government and trade unions around the<br />
same table for meaningful dialogue on worker organizing in factories,<br />
as well as on getting to grips with safety standards.<br />
CASE STUDY<br />
‘HIGHER ROAD’ EMPLOYERS THAT<br />
POINT THE WAY<br />
In the Dominican Republic, the US company Knights Apparel established<br />
a living wage factory to supply ethical clothing to the student market. 350<br />
Maritza Vargas, president of the Altagracia Project Union, describes the<br />
impact that having a living wage had on her life:<br />
‘I can now access nutritious food and I never have to worry that I can’t<br />
feed my family. I have been able to send my daughter to university and<br />
keep my son in high school – this was always my dream … We now<br />
find we are treated with respect in the workplace – this is completely<br />
different to our experience in the other factory.’<br />
“<br />
It is clear that good jobs<br />
help families and societies<br />
to progress more quickly.<br />
Our experience at Tesco is<br />
that this also makes sense<br />
from a business perspective;<br />
the best supplier partners<br />
for the long-term are<br />
those that invest in their<br />
people: they tend to be<br />
the most productive, most<br />
reliable and make the best<br />
quality products.<br />
GILES BOLTON<br />
GROUP DIRECTOR, RESPONSIBLE<br />
SOURCING, TESCO PLC,<br />
AUGUST 2014 349<br />
“<br />
There have been benefits for local shops and trades people too, as<br />
a result of workers’ increased spending power. This change came about<br />
due to pressure from consumers and, while an encouraging example,<br />
it is unfortunately not typical of the companies which work in the<br />
Dominican Republic. 351<br />
Kenya’s cut flower sector was the target of civil society campaigns in the<br />
2000s. Since then the workers who process these high-value, delicate<br />
products have seen real improvements in some areas. Their wages are<br />
still far from being a living wage, 352 but the most skilled workers, 75<br />
percent of whom are women, report improvements in health and safety,<br />
a reduction in sexual harassment and more secure contracts compared<br />
with 10 years ago. A majority of workers surveyed for the report agreed<br />
that ‘it is easier to progress from temporary to permanent employment<br />
than when I started work.’ 353<br />
Factors aiding this include the implementation of codes, such as the<br />
Ethical Trading Initiative Base Code, product certification (Kenya Flower<br />
Council, Fairtrade), more professional human resource management,<br />
the establishment of gender committees and improved legislation. 354<br />
In neighbouring Uganda, conditions in the industry have improved<br />
even more (though from a lower base), helped by greater worker<br />
organization. 355 79