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SECTION 1 2 3<br />

WHAT CAN BE DONE<br />

Some MNCs have taken voluntary steps towards improving the lot of their<br />

workers. Unilever, International Procurement and Logistics (IPL) and the Ethical<br />

Tea Partnership have acknowledged the labour issues identified by Oxfam in<br />

recent joint studies and are implementing plans to address them. 346 H&M has<br />

published a ‘road map to a living wage’, starting with three factories in<br />

Bangladesh and Cambodia, which produce 100 percent for the company. 347<br />

In the UK, 800 companies have been accredited as living wage employers,<br />

including Nestlé, KPMG and HSBC. 348 In another hopeful sign, Bangladesh’s<br />

Accord on Fire and Building Safety now has more than 180 corporate members,<br />

and has brought brands, industry, government and trade unions around the<br />

same table for meaningful dialogue on worker organizing in factories,<br />

as well as on getting to grips with safety standards.<br />

CASE STUDY<br />

‘HIGHER ROAD’ EMPLOYERS THAT<br />

POINT THE WAY<br />

In the Dominican Republic, the US company Knights Apparel established<br />

a living wage factory to supply ethical clothing to the student market. 350<br />

Maritza Vargas, president of the Altagracia Project Union, describes the<br />

impact that having a living wage had on her life:<br />

‘I can now access nutritious food and I never have to worry that I can’t<br />

feed my family. I have been able to send my daughter to university and<br />

keep my son in high school – this was always my dream … We now<br />

find we are treated with respect in the workplace – this is completely<br />

different to our experience in the other factory.’<br />

“<br />

It is clear that good jobs<br />

help families and societies<br />

to progress more quickly.<br />

Our experience at Tesco is<br />

that this also makes sense<br />

from a business perspective;<br />

the best supplier partners<br />

for the long-term are<br />

those that invest in their<br />

people: they tend to be<br />

the most productive, most<br />

reliable and make the best<br />

quality products.<br />

GILES BOLTON<br />

GROUP DIRECTOR, RESPONSIBLE<br />

SOURCING, TESCO PLC,<br />

AUGUST 2014 349<br />

“<br />

There have been benefits for local shops and trades people too, as<br />

a result of workers’ increased spending power. This change came about<br />

due to pressure from consumers and, while an encouraging example,<br />

it is unfortunately not typical of the companies which work in the<br />

Dominican Republic. 351<br />

Kenya’s cut flower sector was the target of civil society campaigns in the<br />

2000s. Since then the workers who process these high-value, delicate<br />

products have seen real improvements in some areas. Their wages are<br />

still far from being a living wage, 352 but the most skilled workers, 75<br />

percent of whom are women, report improvements in health and safety,<br />

a reduction in sexual harassment and more secure contracts compared<br />

with 10 years ago. A majority of workers surveyed for the report agreed<br />

that ‘it is easier to progress from temporary to permanent employment<br />

than when I started work.’ 353<br />

Factors aiding this include the implementation of codes, such as the<br />

Ethical Trading Initiative Base Code, product certification (Kenya Flower<br />

Council, Fairtrade), more professional human resource management,<br />

the establishment of gender committees and improved legislation. 354<br />

In neighbouring Uganda, conditions in the industry have improved<br />

even more (though from a lower base), helped by greater worker<br />

organization. 355 79

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