Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES

yodta
(pooh bah)
Sun Mar 06 2005
07:16 AM
Sarge
(carpal tunnel)
Sun Mar 06 2005
03:21 PM
yodta
(pooh bah)
Thu Mar 10 2005
06:58 AM
Gnarls.
Re: Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES
hey Sarge,
I just got 'round to reading the post you left for me about overcarburetion.
makes sense -- boggy, no throttle response...
wellt. I'm not so sure the 40/40 I have lying around would really suit my driving needs at this point. mostly just a daily driver, and it
rarely sees anything past 4000-4500rpm, and my cam is ground for low end torque. it really is a nice setup for day to day trips.
I am still curious, though. if I really can't overcarburete by putting on the 40/40 seeing how I could control the low end with jetting,
the thing would probably run pretty well at the higher engine speeds as long as my cam can flow the air.
basically I'm just looking for the absolute best throttle response. if I'm cruising at 2500rpm at any speed and open it up, I want it to
wind up quickly. right now it runs okay and pulls nicely, though it's a little flat sometimes, especially at highway speeds.
seems to pull better on lighter pedal, meaning upto and just teasing the secondary, than it does if I really open it up unless I'm at
3500rpm or higher and really have my foot in it.
what do you make of that?
I just recently reverted to the factory stock jetting with the exception of fatter idle jets. I'm haven't decided yet if it was better in the
secondary with the 155 as opposed to the stock 150 I have back in it now.
currently my jetting is:
primary/secondary
idles: 70/65
mains: 130/150
airs: 170/180
mixture screw: 1-1/2 turns out from seated.
nice off the line and up through about 40-50mph. a little boggy in the secondary, and sluggish at highway speeds in the
secondary at around 2800rpm. as I said, it climbs better if I'm just upto the secondary and just into.
the secondary transition seems okay as long as I ease into it with engine speed climing.
Re: Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES
Try cranking the air corrector up in the secondary, or even going down with the main jet on that side. A good tune will produce a
pretty loud howl when the secondary is cracked open . Also, watch the air filter, if you have a short K&N style it will restrict it
pretty badly at high flow rates. At 1.5 turns out, you are pretty close to limit on the primary idle , how is the response off-idle?
Also, a 130 main in the primary coupled with the 170 air jet is pretty lean at full open in the primary, might want to back that down
to a 160 air jet .
Sarge
Re: Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES
alright Sarge, I've been thinkin' a bit about my setup after what you've suggested, and I've made a couple of changes:
primary/secondary (previous)
idles: 75/70 (70/65)
mains: 135/150 (130/150)
airs: 170/180 (unchanged)
you were right about the primary idle being too lean. the screw was out more like 2-1/4, just under 2-1/2. for the 32/36 redline
says 2.5-3 turns is the max before bumping up the jet. I've changed the primary idle to a 75 and got the screw down to two turns.
idles much smoother now and pulls a bit nicer off idle. feels more solid and responsive.
so, I drove it like that for a while, and it was feeling a little flat on mid throttle up around 2200-2800rpm or so, kinda at that
transition spot. I bumped up the primary main from 130 to the 135 and it's a bit more responsive.
it fell down a little momentarily when getting into the secondary, so I changed the secondary idle jet from a 65 to a 70, and it
cleaned up a bit.
so, now it's still feeling just a tad flat at just past mid throttle in the primary circuit like where the vacuum would start pulling in the
main circuit. my question to you is should I change the primary air down to the 160 at this point, or go up again on the primary
main to a 140?
my understanding is that going down 3 sizes in the air jet is equivalent to going up 1 size in the main jet, so this can allow you to
fine tune? although, I've also been told that the air jets really only come into play above 3000-3500rpm, so...
and you're saying to lean out the secondary main circuit? what makes you think it's too fat?
it seems a little boggy, but I can't tell if it's lean or rich at this point with the changes I've just made. I need to get my A/F meter
reconnected... I read a couple of years ago that one of the "seat of the pants" ways to tell whether lean or rich is to get on it, and
if it feels like something's holding you back like you're dragging something, and you let off the throttle slightly and it accelerates
13 of 88