Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES

Sarge
(carpal tunnel)
Tue Apr 12 2005
01:31 AM
yodta
(pooh bah)
Wed Apr 13 2005
05:58 PM
top cover screws. I can rip the top off a DGV so fast your head would spin.
hahaha! yeah, it does get ridiculously mundane pulling those same 6 screws out over and over again. I had to helicoil the carb
body on mine from strippin' the threads on two of the six.
let us know what you find out from McMaster.
Re: Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES
Guinea Pig,
You may want to stud the top of that carb, the threads can wear out over time in the aluminum. The whole intenetion here other
than helping you out is for the whole Toyota community. There is a lot of potential power in those engines, mostly in the torque
band as displayed by the cam changes. I'd be tempted to build a one-off custom DCNF 40 for that motor as well, but expense
sort of puts a damper on that route. I doubt many Toy enthusiasts would pay $500 for the bare carb , let alone the necessary
adapters and such.
One thing I may have missed during all this discussion is the fuel system . What exactly are you using for a pump and regulator?
To properly guage jetting and emulsion tubes the fuel system must be very consistent and stable. I'm currently using a Holley
Red pump and 12-804 regulator . I know , sort of pathetic, isn't it? The Weber parts are just too high in cost and hard to get at this
time.
Had another interesting conversation with Weber NA today and learned a bit more about series numbers and such dealing with
the whole DCNF family. Most tuners will warn you that this series is designed for individual runner manifolds only, each throat is
suppose to operate a given cylinder. Well, we also found 8 different Euro cars that use them as a single or even dual setup for
multiple cylinders with a common plenum, HAH! I knew it would work, lol. The next step is to finish the work on the 40DCNF and
add a timed vacuum port for the distributor advance, not really looking forward to this one. I also located a set of 30mm chokes
for this carb, rare as hen's teeth so I'm gonna grab them tomorrow. Really hope all this pans out, I'm collecting parts at an
alarming rate here.
Spent another good 20 minutes on the phone with McMaster-Carr's tech dept as well. I asked about high cycle rates on the temp
range of the Garolite material. This is a full resin strand material and is expected to hold up quite well during heat/cool cycles.
The problem with using any phenolic material such as Bakelite on a carb is this vicious cycle. In cold weather underhood and
engine temps can get pretty high despite the cold air. Running an open air filter will still allow the carb to get heated quite a bit
under rpm's and air movement cool it down very rapidly. This is what leads to the common problem of "carb icing" . Any trace of
moisture in the air becomes frozen in the throats and can block off the venturi . It is especially noticable in low-lying areas where
the engine is allowed to pull in moisture and cool it off while driving, usually within a few minutes of startup. Auto makers solved
this years ago by using closed intake systems and warm air pipes to feed heated air into the carb during warm up. Mine has only
done it once in the last 5yrs, it just lost power but as soon as I pulled off to inspect it the ice was almost gone from the engine
heat. Anyway, since it is a high strand material, the Garolite sounds like it should work quite well. I ordered a sheet of the 3/4"
thick and it will be here tomorrow. Hopefully I'll have some spacers cut this week and start testing. I also plan to make some
isolators for each style carb's base and test those as well for cracking issues. Gonna be a busy month again...
Sarge
Re: Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES
I'm just using the stock fuel pump, a new one actually. I explored the electric fuel pump route there for a while, but decided
against it for now. kept reading about how it should be on the same level as or lower than the fuel tank which is impractical for my
truck. also, more importantly, the cut off. in most of my reading, the guys had it wired into the ignition switch, so it would start
pumping as soon as the switch was on. I didn't like that. what happens when the motor dies and you're still pumping fuel? on
solution to this was wiring it to an oil pressure switch, but then I thought, well crap, what happens if the switch goes bad? the
stock seems to be working okay. maybe I'll revisit electric down the road with a Carter pump.
so. I dropped in that F6 emulsion tube today.
in anticipation of a rich mixture at lower speeds & cruise,, I went ahead and changed the jetting as well:
Current (Previous)
idles: 65/65 (65/65)
mains: 130/145 (140/145)
airs: 170/180 (175/180)
first let me say that the previous configuration with the F50 tubes was pretty decent. low end pull was better with the 70 p-idle jet.
as jetted, it was quite responsive on the highway and would cruise nicely at 70, and pull pretty decent on light pedal. too much
pedal, and it would fall down. I'm talking only about the primary here. the secondary as jetted was almost useless.
First impression with the F6
Hard to say at this point. it feels okay, but there does seem to be a bit of a boggy feeling. meter reads rich. it gets loud, but
doesn't move much for the sound it's making if that makes sense. I'm still getting a feel for it. it's showing way rich on the A/F
meter at lower engine speeds & cruise, which is to be expected since the F6 tube richens the mix at lower rpm.
I may need to order some smaller main jets, maybe a 125 & a 120.
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