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(pooh bah)<br />
Mon Mar 21 2005<br />
12:26 PM<br />
JEFFB<br />
(addict)<br />
Mon Mar 21 2005<br />
02:56 PM<br />
yodta<br />
(pooh bah)<br />
Mon Mar 21 2005<br />
05:25 PM<br />
Sarge<br />
(carpal tunnel)<br />
Tue Mar 22 2005<br />
02:27 AM<br />
Gnarly4X<br />
(carpal tunnel)<br />
Tue Mar 22 2005<br />
03:47 AM<br />
Sarge<br />
(carpal tunnel)<br />
Tue Mar 22 2005<br />
03:57 AM<br />
yodta<br />
(pooh bah)<br />
Tue Mar 22 2005<br />
12:19 PM<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
I have a three wire, unless <strong>the</strong> 12v (hot) or ground is not making connection !<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
your gauge behavior sounds about normal for <strong>the</strong>se cheapie aftermarket gauges. I was talking to <strong>the</strong> guy who does my machine<br />
work a couple of years ago about this when I was having a really tough time getting my truck tuned correctly. he's got a dyno at<br />
<strong>the</strong> shop and we were talking about getting <strong>the</strong> webers tuned and how he connects an A/F gauge to <strong>the</strong> exhausts to bring data<br />
into <strong>the</strong> dyno. his dyno reads A/F ratios off of a sensor that threads into <strong>the</strong> O2 bung as well, only it's a lot more accurate than <strong>the</strong><br />
setups we use for under $100 by <strong>the</strong> time we're done. he says those gauges are okay for ballpark tuning, but can only be but so<br />
accurate with <strong>the</strong>ir limited displays.<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
The top picture is of two very interesting carbs . The older looking one is a 40DCNF12 from a Ferrari 308 . The new old stock one<br />
next to it is a 36DCNF38 , <strong>the</strong> 38 designation gives it <strong>the</strong> vacuum advance like <strong>the</strong> 36DCNVA . I made a few calls today , <strong>the</strong><br />
36DCNF38 is an old school carb and is no longer available except for rare Ebay ones like I scored a few weeks ago . Too bad,<br />
those things rock and are worth a pretty fair penny. The 36DCNVA is currently available, all stock is true Italian <strong>Weber</strong>s to boot .<br />
Best part is , <strong>the</strong>y are actually cheaper than <strong>the</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong>'s at current pricing . Bad part is , I have to make <strong>the</strong> adapters and<br />
linkage setups for <strong>the</strong>m from scratch . Once I get <strong>the</strong> templates made it's no big deal, just a bit of a pia...<br />
The O2 sensors and those A/F meters are just what <strong>the</strong>y are intended for, a ballpark idea of fuel curve and jetting. At least once a<br />
week I have to argue <strong>the</strong> point of this with a customer, <strong>the</strong>y keep an eye on that guage and trust it like Gospel . They are merely a<br />
tuning tool and not accurate enough to trust to a high extent . Most times <strong>the</strong>y are nice when you effectively get "lost" in jetting not<br />
knowing if <strong>the</strong> carb is lean or rich in a given range . Then you have a better idea of where to go from <strong>the</strong>re . I just tune <strong>the</strong>m to<br />
plug color, fuel mileage, power, and driveability . Hasn't failed me in <strong>the</strong> last 20yrs.....<br />
Sarge<br />
BTW, <strong>the</strong> Ramflo order went in today including one special red 1000cfm DGV , should be here at <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> week or so .<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
Quote:<br />
... Most times <strong>the</strong>y are nice when you effectively get "lost" in jetting not knowing if <strong>the</strong> carb is lean or rich in a given<br />
range . Then you have a better idea of where to go from <strong>the</strong>re . I just tune <strong>the</strong>m to plug color, fuel mileage, power,<br />
and driveability . Hasn't failed me in <strong>the</strong> last 20yrs.....<br />
Sarge,<br />
Have you noticed any difference in "plug color" with today's fuel? We have methanol-blend added twice a year here in AZ. Just<br />
curious.<br />
Gnarls.<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
Plug colors can vary by region as well as climate. Most of <strong>the</strong> time a nice light reddish tan is perfect. Some areas <strong>the</strong> tan shows<br />
up more as almost brown and some come up with a weird gray. As long as <strong>the</strong>re's no white ash and driveability/throttle response<br />
is where it should be. I've had to re-jet 4 times in <strong>the</strong> last 2 months due to breaking a new engine in , up to 145's now on <strong>the</strong><br />
38DGAS....<br />
Sarge<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
woohoo, new air filter! thanks man. let me know how much it'll be with shipping to 23462!<br />
yeah, I'm with ya on <strong>the</strong> A/F meter. I think I've done better on my jetting attempts not having that thing hooked up right now<br />
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