Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES

Gnarly4X
(carpal tunnel)
Fri Nov 04 2005
09:26 PM
2ndGenToyotaFan
(addict)
Sat Nov 05 2005
01:34 AM
yodta
(pooh bah)
Sat Nov 05 2005
03:38 AM
Sarge
(carpal tunnel)
Sat Nov 05 2005
02:37 PM
Sarge
(carpal tunnel)
Sat Nov 19 2005
12:20 AM
yodta
(pooh bah)
Sat Nov 19 2005
02:09 PM
good call Sarge. I'd just gone a little too far in the lean direction after having driven it way too rich for so long. you know, I have to
say, I've learned a lot in messing with Webers over the past 5 years. I used to only get 12mpg and poor performance when I first
started playing around. now it's very very driveable and I even get okay mileage. just depends on how I drive. I'm quite pleased
with it at this point.
Yodta,
Re: Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES
This is good shit man!! I love this stuff.. now we got meat to bite on!! Great job! I think the plugs look good. I'd do what Sarge
does and change them for new and run them awhile and check them. I can't believe how much you know and have experimented
with this carb. I would not be able to have the patience to do that... my hat's off to you!! Man, you are at GURU status on this
subject in my opinion. Scott, I'm proud to know you!! YOU are da-MAN!! Sarge, you are da-MAN too!!
Gnarls.
Re: Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES
I've been following this thread from the begining, and although most of the time it hurts my brain, there's a ton of great info in it.
Thanks to Sarge, Yodta, and even Gnarls for keeping up with all the updates. I've got EFI, but all the tuning info has been great.
Weber 32/36DGV Tuning
I just hope it helps people who've been having a tough time getting Webers setup and tuned properly. There wasn't a whole lot to
read back when I first started trying to get it setup correctly.
I just did a search on Google for "Weber 32/36DGV" and this post comes up as the #1 link. pretty cool...
Re: Weber 32/36DGV Tuning
Wanna see cool? That search linking has resulted in my getting a ton of email , only half of it from this continent. Lots of Euro
guys don't have the support we do in our groups . Go ahead, name a country and I've had at least one contact from nearly every
one of them. Not to mention some of the craziest engine/car combo's ever, our hotrod guys think they have the market cornerd,
HA.
A couple of things you should know....
Response off-idle isn't completely in the idle jet size and the transition circuit. Fuel level height, emulsion tube type and main jet
size also govern response off-idle. The real trick in doing diagnostics is reading throttle input. This gets pretty difficult since I can't
physically see the carb myself. Depending upon throttle position and how a person sets the idle speed also directly affects how
the transition acts with the main circuits. There's a phrase to work with, just how far are you opening the throttle when you have a
problem?? This is really hard to judge when doing diagnostics. Small notations like "lack of response after shifting gears" or a bit
of hiccup when letting the clutch out" are two very different problems. One is a main not coming in early enough, the other is idle
jet size/transition.
Fuel mileage is now a big concern. You could probably get away with the 135 main jet in the primary easily, just drop the air jet
down to match it in, like about a 160 or so. If the response goes away, stay with the 140 and crank the air jet up to get the "cruise
lean" effect back. Primary taken care of, the secondary is a bit easier. The 150 is probably too big, I'd say more like a 140 with a
170 air should work.
That pattern on those plugs looks ok, but the amount of stark white tells me they were run pretty darn lean in some point. At this
point, reset the jets and get a new set of plugs. It will go a long way in helping get it right. The reason they show some richness is
probably due to the larger idle jet. If you can drop a size or two when increasing the main, great. The really important rule with
idle jets is run as small a jet size as you can get away with. This prevents off-idle over fueling and keeps the plugs cleaner. This
is also where power can change quite a bit, if the engine can just pull up smooth without being overfueled overall driveability goes
up. EFI guys know how this feels, most fuel injection systems never run much below stoich in any part of the curve. That is also
the reason a carb to some extent can build more power and sometimes still produce nearly the same fuel mileage. This is really
evident with throttle body systems, the 02 sensor and ecm just maintains the same mixture across the board. Late model stuff
takes in consideration the amount of throttle input, how fast it got there, engine rpm, trans and other info and adjusts the fuel
curve accordingly. Basically, just like your carb...hehe.
Sarge
Re: Weber 32/36DGV Tuning
Well, finally got caught up here . I think we just scored a new old stock 40DCNF , who is interested in trying this thing out??
Sarge
Re: Weber 32/36DGV Tuning
hmm. how's the install look? clean? what about the linkage? I need to do some exhaust work on my other car before I consider
possibly disabling my main daily driver, but I am interested in the DCNF.
I have a stock manifold I can clean up to use, but I was planning on trying to get my 40 setup on it.
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