Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES

yodta
(pooh bah)
Sun Mar 13 2005
01:00 PM
Sarge
(carpal tunnel)
Sun Mar 13 2005
02:08 PM
and had much less "backwash" show up in the carb. Those carbs are seriously affected by air flow direction, they must breathe
straight in to work properly.
Floats:
I mentioned how float setting affect the main circuits. Maybe a few more notes would help here. I set mine fairly in the middle,
most at just over parallel to the top cover. Plastic ones are set to 35mm or so . This is fairly high but I also close off the vent area
and install a divertor tube to keep spilled fuel out of the air jets. At extreme angles this helps a lot . Part of the reason for using a
fairly high float setting is to offset the use of a regulator and electric pump. Most of the low pressure pumps cannot provide a
steady high-volume flow rate. Holley's red series pump does a nice job but puts out 5-7psi average. With a regulator such as their
12-804 low pressure unit that combo needs a bit lower float setting otherwise some guys run into a problem when stepping on the
brakes hard. The float level allows too much fuel to rush ahead and effectively "jam" into the emulsion tubes and flood the engine
, killing it at idle. Merely dropping the float a bit stops this but also requires the main jets to be increased slightly to compensate. It
can get to be a real game to balance between offroad capability and overall driveability. You would not belive the hours I've spent
trying to find this balance and be able to apply it to almost any engine combo. To add to this, not all models of the Weber react
the same way. There are 3 basic versions of the progressive DGV , each one reacts to jetting and float differently. There are two
versions of the 38DGAS and they are even more fussy about it but once dialed in are very responsive and provide huge power
and torque. Driveability is nothing more than the willingness to spend the time to attain it ....
Sarge
Re: Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES
I guess I should mention the "feel" I'm striving for. one of the things I noticed in all my reading is that no one really mentions
anything about that. I think what it is I'm trying to do is get the absolute BEST throttle response, as in, when I press the gas I want
it to react quickly and forcefully, whether just slight pedal pressure or taking it wot, power valve not included.
this means that timing has to be dead on optimal which I really don't know for sure where it's supposed to be. I know it's between
0* - 5*, but that makes a big difference when it comes to jetting.
the jetting you prescribe is very very close to what I was running before I started messing with it again.
primary/secondary (previous)
idles: 75/70 (70/65)
mains: 135/150 (130/150)
airs: 170/180 (unchanged)
I do keep notes about the changes I make, and the response. it's really easy to forget what you've got in there when you're
making config. changes all the time.
I'm probably going to stick with the emulsion tubes that are in there. there are enough variables already, heheh, and that's just
adding another one to the mix. this carb came setup pretty close to what I need. I have to believe that the Weber guys know
better than I could ever learn what this carb needs to run well in a 22R -- start messing with the emulsion tubes and you change
the driveability range, right? I mean, either way more low end, or way more top endt? I think it's got f50s in it right now, which I
imagine are designed for broad range driveablility.
now, about the float... what is the right level? can you speak a little bit about how to measure? do you do it & measure holding the
float below the top cover, or do you flip the top cover over, float up top, and make your changes? again, probably okay with the
float, but I guess I need to get a number for where it's supposed to be for this vehicle. I'll email pierce manifolds...
I think I'd like to try the ramflo filter. do I need any more than the 400cfm rated filter? I mean, this carb's only rated for 326, I think.
I'm gonna go play a little, check my timing again, and drop in those jets you're proposing. I can say that it seems to like the 75
idle better as well as the 70 sec. idle. that 135 main is better, too. I'm going to try the sec. main back at 150, and the airs at
175/185. I'll check the response when opening the secondary, and possible drop the 70 back to a 65 if it's boggy. I have a feeling
my secondary is too rich.
Re: Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES
Here is a link to Pierce's site and a nice drawing of how to level Weber floats . The float must dangle from it's pin to keep from
compressing the internal damper spring. LOL, for those that claim Weber's have "float bounce" , they are full of crap . You are
very correct about tuning for feel, driveability and power is what it's all about .
Emulsion tubes included with your carb are a really generic setup. Weber does not typically use F50's in their tuning, but a more
specific tube designed to perform correctly with a given engine . The F50's are added here , not when they are built. This is part
of the "kit" process and not necessarily the correct choice either. With your manifold design, I'd say an F6 in the primary would
work better. I'm going to look in my inventory and see if I have an extra one, if so I'll send it to you for some testing.
The float is a bit of a trick. If it's brass, all is good. The plastic ones have undergone a few changes over the years and their
actual measurement can vary . Basically all of them are designed to be run parallel to the top cover, plus or minus 1/4" or so. The
real issue is actual travel from that setting. By keeping the total travel of the internal valve (not including the internal damper
spring) limited to about 2mm you help avoid flooding at high angles. The rear tab on the float frame hits the body of the float
valve, this is where max drop is limited and adjusted. Like I said, it really does affect the main circuit since fuel level also sets the
timing of the mains and fuel available in height to the emulsion tubes. One note about this, watch out for carbs that have loose
fitting auxilary venturi's. If they are loose this will create a problem with the draw response in the emulsion tubes.
When I talked to the supplier about the filters he usually recommends using the 600cfm unit on all DGV's. Just a better and larger
given area to supply air from, the cfm rating is not a total rule to go by, but the actual area above the air horn is what you are
after. Looks like the initial order is almost sold out but I'll keep you in mind when they arrive. Lately UPS has been slow as
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