Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES

yodta
(pooh bah)
Thu Feb 24 2005
06:26 PM
foxracing706
(enthusiast)
Thu Feb 24 2005
08:27 PM
yodta
(pooh bah)
Thu Feb 24 2005
10:57 PM
Sarge
(carpal tunnel)
Fri Feb 25 2005
02:01 AM
want ONLY the idle circuit active here. if the throttle plates are open, it exposes the transistion holes to vacuum drawing in more
A/F mix and it will throw off your idle circuit adjustment. and fyi, in case you are wondering, the transition holes are just that -they
aid in the transition from the idle circuit to the main circuit so you don't get a flat spot as the vacuum falls off of the idle circuit
when the throttle plates open up.
now, one of the things I have to disagree on is the assumption that drivers will always be driving at the limit of the primary with
the 32/36 with a header and cam installed. I installed both last summer, and my truck cruises very nicely under light pedal,
certainly well below the limit of the primary. this is because I finally figured out how to properly setup the ignition system on the
22R with a Weber setup.
there are those who will say you only need one of the vacuum hoses connected to the distributor. that's fine if you don't want
maximum fuel economy, a responsive pedal coming off of a cruise condition, or a smooth idle. if you don't care about any of this
stuff, then stop reading here. if you do, then you need to make sure you have the advance mechanism properly setup on your
distributor for best performance.
basically, you need the idle advance (rear port on the distributor) to work for the smooth idle (duh) and to advance the timing
under low to no load engine conditions. you need the normal advance (front port on the distributor) to advance your timing as the
throttle opens up, aiding the distibutor's mechanical advance.
the secret here is understanding what type of vacuum is active and when. basically, when you're idling or under low load
conditions like steady cruising on the highway, the manifold vacuum comes up. ported vacuum is above the throttle plates,
manifold vacuum is below the throttle plates and increases as the throttle plates close or when there's no load on the engine.
when you're getting on the gas, the throttle plates open up, and manifold vacuum drops off -- there's nothing for it to suck against
until the load stabilizes, and even then it's just the air filter.
connect the normal advance port on the distributor to the port on the base of the carb and connect the idle advance distributor to
any port on the manifold and everything should work fine.
one other thing to understand is the point at which your engine can move an increased volume of air, because a big carburetor on
an engine that's not moving a lot of air isn't gonna do anything except sound loud and probably get boggy. if you floor it right off
idle even with the stock carb or a 32/36, it's not going to get responsive until the engine winds up.
I did a write up on weber jetting & timing some time ago with lots of pictures that you can find here.
Re: Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES
heheh, yeah josh, carbs can be a pain to get the hang of, but what's to break once you get it all setup?
Re: Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES
To bad you guys dont live in az. I am in desparet need of your help.
Brad
Re: Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES
follow the links in those posts & start with the basics, man. it's not that hard if you can read & follow directions
come back on with questions...
I'm sure Sarge & I could help you get it worked out.
Re: Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES
Great tech writeup, Yodta . I have never had much of a chance to tune out any of the Toy engines with Webers on them, just
never seem to have the time . Most of the ones I have been able to look at do not use both vacuum advance lines , I will certainly
pass that useful info along. The reason I mentioned modified engines not running well with the 32/36 in comparison is due to cam
designs . Most of the 262 "torque" range cams have too wide an overlap to work well with a small primary throat . Some engines
will respond well while others are very flat in their throttle response. This is the case with the Suzuki's I tune every day , hence
them running against the wall in the primary. Add that problem to an already underpowered truck that is 50% heavier than stock
and you'll see my point about using the 38DGAS instead . I would like to see a pic of that Offy intake , anyone got a link to it ? I
do totally agree about going with an intake that eliminates the adapter plates altogether , but with one exception . Low plenum
intake manifolds have one bad drawback when using a Weber, it tries to draw the a/f mixture out of the carb at an angle and
creates a turbulence under the carb . Some of the engines I've ran into needed at least a 1/2" thick spacer to stop this . Works
the same with the air filters. Use the short filter and you will notice quite a difference in how the carb breathes and responds. The
2 5/8" filter or better still using the Ramflo is the only way to go . These carbs are designed to breathe straight in, not up and over
the choke housing .
The adapter plates and install kits , wow. I've been on Worldpac for years about improving those things with no luck at all. The
techs at Redline hate them as much as we do but their complaints fall on deaf ears. It's a real shame since those plates and
overall quality issues are giving them a bad name and costing them sales in the long run . Lately most of the new air filters I've
bought just suck, the rubber is too thick and won't allow the filter clips to hold the unit together properly without some
modifications . That's another thing , sell me a carb for that high price and give me $.50 worth of stupid clips to hold the filter on it
?? Yeah, right . I think they really could do better. Speaking of filters, anyone tried to buy a Ramflo lately? I've tried to contact
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