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Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES

Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES

Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES

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(pooh bah)<br />

Mon Feb 28 2005<br />

06:59 AM<br />

cmo<br />

(member)<br />

Mon Feb 28 2005<br />

01:09 PM<br />

yodta<br />

(pooh bah)<br />

Mon Feb 28 2005<br />

06:00 PM<br />

dok33<br />

(addict)<br />

Mon Feb 28 2005<br />

07:46 PM<br />

yodta<br />

(pooh bah)<br />

Tue Mar 01 2005<br />

12:14 AM<br />

Sarge<br />

(carpal tunnel)<br />

Tue Mar 01 2005<br />

03:13 AM<br />

Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />

I've used both carbs, and while I can't quantify anything, I feel that <strong>the</strong> 38 gave much more power and throttle response over all<br />

rpm ranges. The engine I was using it on was stock except for headers. I was getting about 18-19mpg which I thought sucked<br />

coming from <strong>the</strong> stock carb.<br />

When I finally blew <strong>the</strong> head gasket I swapped in a DOA 150hp engine and switched to a <strong>32</strong>/36 because of emissions<br />

compliance and problems with <strong>the</strong> 38mm flooding offroad. This setup was a dissappointment compared to <strong>the</strong> 38mm. You really<br />

have to push <strong>the</strong> accelerator hard, and even <strong>the</strong>n it just doesn't seem to have as much as <strong>the</strong> stock engine and <strong>the</strong> 38mm. Oh,<br />

and my mileage has been around 16mpg. The only reasons I don't swap <strong>the</strong> carb back are <strong>the</strong> perceived flooding issues with <strong>the</strong><br />

38 (not a problem for you, though) and <strong>the</strong> fact that I already sold it.<br />

Now that I'm working again and have some money to spend I'm going to get rid of <strong>the</strong> carbs altoge<strong>the</strong>r and get a SDS system to<br />

convert to EFI. That ought to really make <strong>the</strong> expense of <strong>the</strong> DOA engine worth it after all.<br />

Funny thing is I was looking at a 77 Celica in Texas on Ebay. Probably <strong>the</strong> same one mentioned in this post by someone else. If I<br />

ever got an early Celica that I didn't have to have smog tested, <strong>the</strong>re's no doubt I'd go with ano<strong>the</strong>r 38.<br />

Oh, I forgot to mention that <strong>the</strong> 38mm was a little cold blooded in <strong>the</strong> winter--and that's when I was living in Phoenix. The <strong>32</strong>/36<br />

seems to handle cold mornings better, even now that I moved from Phoenix to Bosie.<br />

Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />

what's this SDS EFI conversion?<br />

I'd like to read some on this...<br />

Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />

It's a standalone management system, but it's alot cheaper than a Haltech or similar and is supposed to be pretty easy to<br />

program. It's also been proven to work very well on <strong>the</strong> 20/22r series motors. here's a link: www.sdsefi.com<br />

Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />

oh jeez...<br />

and I thought that might be easier than swapping in an EFI harness and stuff.<br />

I <strong>the</strong>enk I'll just stick with my weber<br />

Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />

Ok, had <strong>the</strong> flu/cold/sinus infection thing lately so my mind is a bit fuzzy, but here goes ....<br />

A lot of folks never see <strong>the</strong> potential in ANY carb due to several factors. Low compression, poor exhaust flow/size, inadequate<br />

valve timing, weight vs engine size, ect.....<br />

Ever see a guy that tosses one of those huge 1100cfm Dominators from Holley on a stock small block Chevy? Ok, looks<br />

awesome, granted , but runs like crap . Off <strong>the</strong> line it should scare you but as soon as <strong>the</strong> revs try to come up <strong>the</strong> engine cannot<br />

handle what he's feeding it . Same deal with <strong>the</strong>se carbs , a good solid 1200-2500 cc engine will do great with a <strong>32</strong>/36 . If <strong>the</strong><br />

same engine has GREAT compression at or very near new specs <strong>the</strong>n a 38DGAS is going to make a HUGE difference . Put a<br />

38DGAS on a worn out engine that has low compression and it may actually run worse than with <strong>the</strong> stock setup . I run into this<br />

every day with my customers . Complaints of "I thought it would have more power" are usually from a worn out engine being<br />

overcarbureted . Even worse is when someone builds a real screamer with all <strong>the</strong> right parts and <strong>the</strong>n puts <strong>the</strong> plain <strong>32</strong>/36 jetted<br />

for high fuel mileage and cannot figure out why it won't get out of it's own way . Things need to really be built as a package . The<br />

Toyota crowd is no different from <strong>the</strong> Suzuki, Chevy or whatever brand crowds, <strong>the</strong>y all have "proven performance" packages .<br />

Certain head/cam combos , exhaust and such when combined in proper order can make some pretty impressive numbers<br />

considering what <strong>the</strong> base is . Our Suzuki engines start out at less than 60hp total , on a good day . Nothing to build a basically<br />

stock engine to 100hp with just bolt on parts . Add a few internals and ano<strong>the</strong>r 30hp is available pretty easily . 1hp/cu.in isn't hard<br />

to achieve, it's <strong>the</strong> 2hp/cuin that's hard . The 2.0L series Toyota is a great motor to start with , internally tough as nails and will<br />

outlast God if taken proper care of . Anyway, back to carbs....<br />

Here's a link to <strong>the</strong> Ramflo filters . If anyone has any luck getting one , let me know as I haven't had any decent reports back as<br />

<strong>the</strong>se guys are slow as gear oil.<br />

http://www.racetep.com/ramflolynx.html<br />

I'd like to become a dealer, but cannot get Lynx to even respond . Too bad, great filter setup and brea<strong>the</strong>s like no tomorrow .<br />

Here's a pic of my current 38DGAS setup with <strong>the</strong> 1000cfm Ramflo....<br />

<br />

As far as problems with 38's flooding offroad, that can be cured for $60 , I do <strong>the</strong>m all day long here . The carb's all have <strong>the</strong><br />

same inherit problem, an open vent area behind <strong>the</strong> air corrector jets. When tipped at high angles fuel can spill out of <strong>the</strong> bowl<br />

and fill up <strong>the</strong> air jets. This in turn fouls out <strong>the</strong> main circuit completely making it very hard to restart <strong>the</strong> engine until <strong>the</strong> angle is<br />

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