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(pooh bah)<br />
Mon Feb 28 2005<br />
06:59 AM<br />
cmo<br />
(member)<br />
Mon Feb 28 2005<br />
01:09 PM<br />
yodta<br />
(pooh bah)<br />
Mon Feb 28 2005<br />
06:00 PM<br />
dok33<br />
(addict)<br />
Mon Feb 28 2005<br />
07:46 PM<br />
yodta<br />
(pooh bah)<br />
Tue Mar 01 2005<br />
12:14 AM<br />
Sarge<br />
(carpal tunnel)<br />
Tue Mar 01 2005<br />
03:13 AM<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
I've used both carbs, and while I can't quantify anything, I feel that <strong>the</strong> 38 gave much more power and throttle response over all<br />
rpm ranges. The engine I was using it on was stock except for headers. I was getting about 18-19mpg which I thought sucked<br />
coming from <strong>the</strong> stock carb.<br />
When I finally blew <strong>the</strong> head gasket I swapped in a DOA 150hp engine and switched to a <strong>32</strong>/36 because of emissions<br />
compliance and problems with <strong>the</strong> 38mm flooding offroad. This setup was a dissappointment compared to <strong>the</strong> 38mm. You really<br />
have to push <strong>the</strong> accelerator hard, and even <strong>the</strong>n it just doesn't seem to have as much as <strong>the</strong> stock engine and <strong>the</strong> 38mm. Oh,<br />
and my mileage has been around 16mpg. The only reasons I don't swap <strong>the</strong> carb back are <strong>the</strong> perceived flooding issues with <strong>the</strong><br />
38 (not a problem for you, though) and <strong>the</strong> fact that I already sold it.<br />
Now that I'm working again and have some money to spend I'm going to get rid of <strong>the</strong> carbs altoge<strong>the</strong>r and get a SDS system to<br />
convert to EFI. That ought to really make <strong>the</strong> expense of <strong>the</strong> DOA engine worth it after all.<br />
Funny thing is I was looking at a 77 Celica in Texas on Ebay. Probably <strong>the</strong> same one mentioned in this post by someone else. If I<br />
ever got an early Celica that I didn't have to have smog tested, <strong>the</strong>re's no doubt I'd go with ano<strong>the</strong>r 38.<br />
Oh, I forgot to mention that <strong>the</strong> 38mm was a little cold blooded in <strong>the</strong> winter--and that's when I was living in Phoenix. The <strong>32</strong>/36<br />
seems to handle cold mornings better, even now that I moved from Phoenix to Bosie.<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
what's this SDS EFI conversion?<br />
I'd like to read some on this...<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
It's a standalone management system, but it's alot cheaper than a Haltech or similar and is supposed to be pretty easy to<br />
program. It's also been proven to work very well on <strong>the</strong> 20/22r series motors. here's a link: www.sdsefi.com<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
oh jeez...<br />
and I thought that might be easier than swapping in an EFI harness and stuff.<br />
I <strong>the</strong>enk I'll just stick with my weber<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
Ok, had <strong>the</strong> flu/cold/sinus infection thing lately so my mind is a bit fuzzy, but here goes ....<br />
A lot of folks never see <strong>the</strong> potential in ANY carb due to several factors. Low compression, poor exhaust flow/size, inadequate<br />
valve timing, weight vs engine size, ect.....<br />
Ever see a guy that tosses one of those huge 1100cfm Dominators from Holley on a stock small block Chevy? Ok, looks<br />
awesome, granted , but runs like crap . Off <strong>the</strong> line it should scare you but as soon as <strong>the</strong> revs try to come up <strong>the</strong> engine cannot<br />
handle what he's feeding it . Same deal with <strong>the</strong>se carbs , a good solid 1200-2500 cc engine will do great with a <strong>32</strong>/36 . If <strong>the</strong><br />
same engine has GREAT compression at or very near new specs <strong>the</strong>n a 38DGAS is going to make a HUGE difference . Put a<br />
38DGAS on a worn out engine that has low compression and it may actually run worse than with <strong>the</strong> stock setup . I run into this<br />
every day with my customers . Complaints of "I thought it would have more power" are usually from a worn out engine being<br />
overcarbureted . Even worse is when someone builds a real screamer with all <strong>the</strong> right parts and <strong>the</strong>n puts <strong>the</strong> plain <strong>32</strong>/36 jetted<br />
for high fuel mileage and cannot figure out why it won't get out of it's own way . Things need to really be built as a package . The<br />
Toyota crowd is no different from <strong>the</strong> Suzuki, Chevy or whatever brand crowds, <strong>the</strong>y all have "proven performance" packages .<br />
Certain head/cam combos , exhaust and such when combined in proper order can make some pretty impressive numbers<br />
considering what <strong>the</strong> base is . Our Suzuki engines start out at less than 60hp total , on a good day . Nothing to build a basically<br />
stock engine to 100hp with just bolt on parts . Add a few internals and ano<strong>the</strong>r 30hp is available pretty easily . 1hp/cu.in isn't hard<br />
to achieve, it's <strong>the</strong> 2hp/cuin that's hard . The 2.0L series Toyota is a great motor to start with , internally tough as nails and will<br />
outlast God if taken proper care of . Anyway, back to carbs....<br />
Here's a link to <strong>the</strong> Ramflo filters . If anyone has any luck getting one , let me know as I haven't had any decent reports back as<br />
<strong>the</strong>se guys are slow as gear oil.<br />
http://www.racetep.com/ramflolynx.html<br />
I'd like to become a dealer, but cannot get Lynx to even respond . Too bad, great filter setup and brea<strong>the</strong>s like no tomorrow .<br />
Here's a pic of my current 38DGAS setup with <strong>the</strong> 1000cfm Ramflo....<br />
<br />
As far as problems with 38's flooding offroad, that can be cured for $60 , I do <strong>the</strong>m all day long here . The carb's all have <strong>the</strong><br />
same inherit problem, an open vent area behind <strong>the</strong> air corrector jets. When tipped at high angles fuel can spill out of <strong>the</strong> bowl<br />
and fill up <strong>the</strong> air jets. This in turn fouls out <strong>the</strong> main circuit completely making it very hard to restart <strong>the</strong> engine until <strong>the</strong> angle is<br />
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