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(carpal tunnel)<br />
Wed Nov 30 2005<br />
02:18 AM<br />
77celica<br />
(stranger)<br />
Mon Jan 23 2006<br />
04:43 AM<br />
yodta<br />
(pooh bah)<br />
Tue Jan 24 2006<br />
12:51 AM<br />
77celica<br />
(stranger)<br />
Tue Jan 24 2006<br />
03:38 AM<br />
Sarge<br />
(carpal tunnel)<br />
Tue Jan 24 2006<br />
01:06 PM<br />
yodta<br />
(pooh bah)<br />
Tue Jan 24 2006<br />
08:50 PM<br />
77celica<br />
(stranger)<br />
Wed Jan 25 2006<br />
01:51 AM<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> Tuning<br />
Just when you thought this thread would die...<br />
I finally got time and energy to swap in <strong>the</strong> working 20r engine into my car. The swap went fairly easy.<br />
I also put on <strong>the</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong> carb and <strong>the</strong> LC header. It is currently running open header in <strong>the</strong> garage. I tried and tried to get <strong>the</strong><br />
car to run with <strong>the</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong> and it wouldn't stay running for more than 10-20 seconds at a time. It will start and run for a few<br />
seconds--I can even rev it fine while it is running and <strong>the</strong>n it will just fall on its face and die. When it does this, <strong>the</strong>re is nothing I<br />
can do to make it stay running. It is also running very rich (I assume by <strong>the</strong> smell of gas in <strong>the</strong> exhaust and my burning eyes.)<br />
I, for grins, swapped <strong>the</strong> <strong>32</strong>/36 on to see if it was <strong>the</strong> carb that was <strong>the</strong> problem and it runs like a champ with <strong>the</strong> <strong>32</strong>/36. I am<br />
assuming I just need to rejet <strong>the</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong> or play with <strong>the</strong> mixture screws more. Any advice? Also, any suggestions on jet sizes<br />
to start with? Where is <strong>the</strong> best place to get jets?<br />
Thanks in advance...I can see <strong>the</strong> light near <strong>the</strong> end of <strong>the</strong> tunnel finally. (I know it never ends, but at least I am progressing!)<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> Tuning<br />
hmm. doesn't backpressure have an effect on idle? most likely it's not your issue here since <strong>the</strong> <strong>32</strong>/36 runs okay.<br />
are you saying that with <strong>the</strong> 38 on it, you can rev it freely and it runs okay, like while holding <strong>the</strong> throttle open? or you can't even<br />
run it holding <strong>the</strong> throttle open for longer than 20 seconds?<br />
assuming you're using <strong>the</strong> same fuel supply hose as on <strong>the</strong> <strong>32</strong>/36 you shouldn't have any fuel system side problems.<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> Tuning<br />
I thought it was strange too...<br />
With <strong>the</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong> on I can't keep it running longer than 20 or so seconds no matter what I do to <strong>the</strong> throttle. It will rev freely and<br />
start ok <strong>the</strong>n after a little while it will die regardless.<br />
Maybe my float level is wrong or something? Could <strong>the</strong> jetting on it be that screwed up that it won't stay idling? I want to tinker<br />
with it some more before I go out and buy a bunch of jets.<br />
I can't get anyone to give me <strong>the</strong> baseline jetting for a <strong>38DGES</strong> on a 20r so I can have a starting point or anything. I even talked<br />
to a weber tech and he was a complete A$$. You would think if someone called you and wanted a simple question<br />
answered and <strong>the</strong>y had hundreds of dollars of your product (two complete carb kits)you wouldn't treat <strong>the</strong>m like crap...Maybe it's<br />
just me. I have never gotten such blatant bad service before. I have not gotten what I wanted from o<strong>the</strong>r companies and people<br />
before, but I have never had someone tell me in so many words "piss off." (sorry just venting)<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> Tuning<br />
Who did you talk to ? Give me <strong>the</strong> number and name and I'll take care of that issue real quick. Already have a good idea of who it<br />
may be , just verify my hunch.<br />
The 38DGAS for your engine should have:<br />
55-60 idle jets<br />
140 mains<br />
170 air jets<br />
F50 tubes<br />
This is assuming you have <strong>the</strong> model with 27mm venturis . Check www.piercemanifolds.com for a drawing on <strong>the</strong> DGV float<br />
height . There is a drawing for both <strong>the</strong> plastic and brass floats. If <strong>the</strong> motor won't idle when cold <strong>the</strong>re's a chance <strong>the</strong> choke<br />
setting is incorrect or <strong>the</strong> choke blades are jammed shut . As well, <strong>the</strong> idle jets could be blocked too. If you need help, shoot me a<br />
pm and I'll give you my phone number.<br />
Sarge<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> Tuning<br />
good start Sarge.<br />
Ron, is this 38 a new carb, or is it one you bought used?<br />
How 'bout popping <strong>the</strong> cover and making a list of what you've currently got in it. unless <strong>the</strong>y're ridiculously large, <strong>the</strong> jetting<br />
shouldn't be causing <strong>the</strong> problem.<br />
I was thinking some kinda blockage as well.<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> Tuning<br />
This is from one of <strong>the</strong> 304 previous posts. The carb is used and it came off a 73 Landcruiser.<br />
85 of 88
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