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(carpal tunnel)<br />
Fri Apr 22 2005<br />
04:11 AM<br />
yodta<br />
(pooh bah)<br />
Fri Apr 22 2005<br />
12:22 PM<br />
Sarge<br />
(carpal tunnel)<br />
Sat Apr 23 2005<br />
02:57 AM<br />
yodta<br />
(pooh bah)<br />
Sat Apr 23 2005<br />
04:36 AM<br />
Sarge<br />
(carpal tunnel)<br />
Sat Apr 23 2005<br />
11:39 AM<br />
Cost factor, plain and simple. Everyone wants to go 200mph for $50 . Yeah, a few gallons of nitromethane will do just that , but<br />
things don't last very long. What you want is a carb that has a selection of interchangeable venturis, auxilary venturis, jets and<br />
such. Hmm, DCNF series comes to mind right quick. The <strong>32</strong>/<strong>32</strong>, <strong>32</strong>/36, 38/38/, and 40/40 DGV/DFV series all have cast-in<br />
venturis that are not removable. You can change <strong>the</strong> auxilary venturis and change <strong>the</strong> main circuit's signal/flow but that is all.<br />
Look at <strong>the</strong> book from Pierce again in <strong>the</strong> DCNF section, <strong>the</strong>re are a lot of venturi's (chokes) available for those carbs. Only<br />
drawback is a different bolt pattern, linkage and somewhat limited availablility of venturi's stocked here. I can get almost any size<br />
from Europe, though. One o<strong>the</strong>r factor to keep in mind is signal vs. throttle response. The bigger venturi requires larger auxilaries<br />
and more fuel, economy can disappear very quickly if you go too far. Power comes up at high revs but so does fuel demand.<br />
Sarge<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
I just hate that it took so long to get someone to look at it more closely and scratch his head and go, "yeah, that carb is pretty<br />
small for that engine."<br />
anyway, it should tune okay, just not optimally, but we'll see. if anything, like you said, I should get good fuel economy and pretty<br />
good pickup since <strong>the</strong> vacuum response will be better.<br />
maybe it won't really matter though given <strong>the</strong> torque curve of my engine.<br />
yeah, I'm noticing <strong>the</strong> DCNF in more of my reading lately. it's pretty apparent to me that <strong>the</strong> DGEV/DGAS/DFAV series is exactly<br />
what you said earlier - an economy OEM type replacement/build. seems if you want <strong>the</strong> ability to truely customize <strong>the</strong> carburetor,<br />
you gotta spend <strong>the</strong> extra for <strong>the</strong> DCNF or DCOE. and yes, I understand better now how you prevent overcarburetion on smaller<br />
engines now with <strong>the</strong>se larger, more capable carbs you really can do just about anything with <strong>the</strong>m.<br />
I pulled out <strong>the</strong> old DFAV last night. it's got 28mm venturis in it, and I think 4.5 chokes, though I haven't had a chance to break<br />
into it fully yet.<br />
I'm gonna get <strong>the</strong> old manifold cleaned up and set this aside as <strong>the</strong> next project. now that I've got my timing issue sorted and a<br />
better understanding of tuning, this carburetor may perform better.<br />
here's a question for you though on setting <strong>the</strong> mixture screws on <strong>the</strong> synchronous carburetors. I've read two techniques on this:<br />
1.) close one mixture screw and set lean best idle with just one screw first, <strong>the</strong>n duplicate <strong>the</strong> setting on <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r screw<br />
2.) set <strong>the</strong>m both at <strong>the</strong> same time<br />
which is <strong>the</strong> best way to do it?<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
I have my own set of tricks for balancing <strong>the</strong> idle screws on synch'd carbs. If you listen closely enough, you can hear each throat<br />
just at lean drop, <strong>the</strong>n just give that throat about 1/8 turn out . Most of <strong>the</strong> time equalizing <strong>the</strong> number of turns is close enough,<br />
but some are more finicky about it . Try tuning it with your ear very close to <strong>the</strong> top of <strong>the</strong> carb with <strong>the</strong> air filter off once, you may<br />
be able to hear <strong>the</strong> lean drop. It starts like a bit of a hiss just before killing off that throat's ability to run . I'd almost like a shot at<br />
<strong>the</strong> original equipment manifold and <strong>the</strong> 40DFAV, see if <strong>the</strong>re are some potential flow issues that can be corrected. Just depends<br />
upon <strong>the</strong> amount of "meat" in <strong>the</strong> plenum. I really prefer a single common plenum with <strong>the</strong> DGV series carbs. In fact, <strong>the</strong>re are a<br />
lot of <strong>the</strong> same common plenum designs used on <strong>the</strong> DCNF series as well. The common plenum just gives a more smoothness<br />
to <strong>the</strong> mix, less puddling and better overall atomization. That split design Offy works well but I wonder sometimes if <strong>the</strong>y didn't go<br />
too far.<br />
Sarge<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
I hear a hiss while adjusting <strong>the</strong> mix screw if I open it up too far. is this <strong>the</strong> hiss you're talking about? what causes that?<br />
yeah, this Offy dual plane manifold is supposed to be designed for increasing low end torque and probably works really well with<br />
<strong>the</strong> smaller primary barrel of <strong>the</strong> <strong>32</strong>/36 in keeping <strong>the</strong> velocity high as it travels through <strong>the</strong> manifold, but it is pretty tight in <strong>the</strong>re.<br />
if I had it to do over again, I'd probably just go with <strong>the</strong> open plenum one which is <strong>the</strong> same basic open design as <strong>the</strong> Toyota one<br />
and could be used with <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r carburetor I have, as well, which I can't do with <strong>the</strong> Offy with <strong>the</strong> dual runners.<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
No, <strong>the</strong>re is almost a whistle when you hit <strong>the</strong> lean edge on a carb, hard to hear since it's pretty high in frequency. The hiss you<br />
hear at rich idle mix is <strong>the</strong> fuel being sprayed out of <strong>the</strong> idle circuit, way too strong to be atomized so it just squirts.Just remember<br />
to allow <strong>the</strong> plugs to clear up for a few seconds, helps a lot.<br />
Sarge<br />
Sarge Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
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