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Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES

Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES

Weber 32/36DGV verses the Weber 38DGES

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77celica<br />

(stranger)<br />

Sun Aug 14 2005<br />

04:42 AM<br />

Sarge<br />

(carpal tunnel)<br />

Sun Aug 14 2005<br />

01:11 PM<br />

yodta<br />

(pooh bah)<br />

Mon Aug 15 2005<br />

01:49 AM<br />

yodta<br />

(pooh bah)<br />

Fri Aug 19 2005<br />

05:00 PM<br />

<strong>the</strong> best overall performance . Gotta test it first on a local truck I built a 38DGAS/intake setup for ....<br />

Sarge<br />

Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />

Just so you guys know I still check this forum daily. I have been watching this thread for updates.<br />

I bought a used <strong>38DGES</strong> off ebay last week. It MAY need a rebuild. How hard are <strong>the</strong>se things to rebuild and is <strong>the</strong>re anything I<br />

should look out for?<br />

The carb came off a 73 landcruiser. Is <strong>the</strong> baseline jetting on <strong>the</strong>se things that different between applications? Will I need to rejet<br />

it? (If I need a rebuild and a rejet it may not have been such an awesome deal <strong>the</strong>n.)<br />

I am awaiting an engine swap in <strong>the</strong> next few weeks before I install <strong>the</strong> carb. Very soon after it will be time to install <strong>the</strong> LC<br />

Engineering header in my garage, along with 2 1/4" piping (as long as that is reasonable).<br />

Thanks, and keep <strong>the</strong> good information coming. I am glad o<strong>the</strong>r people are learning some of this valuable knowlege.<br />

Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />

The 38's have some inherit problems with <strong>the</strong> throttle shaft seals that should be addressed. Some are not installed correctly at<br />

<strong>the</strong> factory but this does require removing <strong>the</strong> throttle plates and completely realigning <strong>the</strong>m . If you've never done one, let a<br />

rebuilder do it or you risk permanent damage . There are <strong>the</strong> nylon wrap bushings as well as <strong>the</strong> nylon ring seals on those throttle<br />

shafts , some are a real pain to put toge<strong>the</strong>r . Also, <strong>the</strong> gear drives have to be re-timed to make it work right at idle . The Cruiser's<br />

jetting is a bit different , just have to try it and go from <strong>the</strong>re . You will see quite a gain in torque over <strong>the</strong> <strong>32</strong>/36 for sure....<br />

Sarge<br />

Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />

Hey Ron,<br />

cool, so you finally got one.<br />

rebuild kits aren't too expensive and are pretty simple, really. haven't done a <strong>Weber</strong> one yet, but I think all you'll need really will<br />

be a new cover gasket, needle valve, and a couple of o<strong>the</strong>r gaskets. I'm not sure if <strong>the</strong>re's an accelerator pump diaphragm or not,<br />

but it looks to me like <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong>s are a lot simpler to rebuild than <strong>the</strong> stock ones.<br />

jetting's no big deal.<br />

I guess <strong>the</strong> best thing to do at this point will be to pull <strong>the</strong> top cover and make a note of which jets it's got in it right now.<br />

Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />

so I've been running <strong>the</strong> mechanical distributor, as you know.<br />

I like <strong>the</strong> response, but I still can't call it properly tuned.<br />

it's definitely <strong>the</strong> most responsive it's ever been. it pulls hard in <strong>the</strong> primary up through & past 4500rpm, due mostly to <strong>the</strong> Ramflo<br />

air filter. when I bring in <strong>the</strong> secondary, <strong>the</strong>re it pulls harder.<br />

I am having a problem, however with pinging on <strong>the</strong> wider open throttle positions. it pulls nicely, quietly on mild throttle, but<br />

opening it up whe<strong>the</strong>r at sub 3000rpm or on hard acceleration pass 3000rpm on up, it pings pretty hard, especially when under<br />

load.<br />

I have to document <strong>the</strong> ignition curve I'm getting with this distributor and hope to get around to it this weekend.<br />

LC recommends base timing of 10*. retarding <strong>the</strong> base timing to 8* doesn't help with <strong>the</strong> pinging. going to 5* does help<br />

somewhat, but anything lower than 10* and <strong>the</strong> response just isn't <strong>the</strong>re.<br />

I have considered fattening <strong>the</strong> fuel, but not quite sure how to go about it and whe<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> response would suffer. I have tried a<br />

140 main, but it just got sloppy.<br />

right now I'm at:<br />

idles: 75/60<br />

mains: 135/150<br />

airs: 180/175<br />

I guess I could try like a 145/200 main/air combo to see what happens. I have tried just fattening <strong>the</strong> main jet, but response<br />

suffers so I think I need to bring up <strong>the</strong> air jet as well to compensate, but this will delay <strong>the</strong> influx of <strong>the</strong> main circuit, won't it?<br />

Sarge Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />

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