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yodta<br />
(pooh bah)<br />
Mon Mar 14 2005<br />
03:27 AM<br />
Sarge<br />
(carpal tunnel)<br />
Mon Mar 14 2005<br />
12:43 PM<br />
molasses. DHL hasn't been much better,had an overnite Sat. delivery that finally showed up yesterday at 3pm, way too late to get<br />
a shipment out on time as promised. That's going to result in a very nasty phone call tomorrow, making me look bad with a<br />
customer is not acceptable and paying for overnite before 10am was for a reason. On top of that, <strong>the</strong> bozo left it outside by <strong>the</strong><br />
door....<br />
Sarge<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
link? what link?!? (I'm always doing that)<br />
okay, so if I've learned anything during this last little bout with <strong>Weber</strong> tuning, it's that air corrector jets are not in <strong>the</strong>re just for<br />
show, or to plug holes<br />
I made several changes today, <strong>the</strong> best results being from air corrector jet changes. never would have thought it, but WOW. I<br />
really can't get over <strong>the</strong> difference <strong>the</strong>y can make.<br />
I got <strong>the</strong> best results today with:<br />
idles: 70/65 (or 60, haven't decided which is best yet)<br />
mains: 135/150<br />
airs: 180/185<br />
if you recall, before I started all this jetting stuff again I was at:<br />
idles: 70/65<br />
mains: 130/150<br />
airs: 170/180<br />
after going up a few steps at a time, noting <strong>the</strong> performance each time, finding a workable idle and main set, bumping up <strong>the</strong> airs<br />
a little at a time, finally getting to a point where I was lean in <strong>the</strong> main circuits -- evidenced in that "towing an invisible anchor" lag<br />
feeling where it gets all loud like it's trying to move but not really doing anything -- I went back to <strong>the</strong> "last known good" of sorts of<br />
<strong>the</strong> configuration you see just above.<br />
as you can see, my current jetting is only a slight departure from <strong>the</strong> stock jetting in <strong>the</strong> mains & airs, my changes being a slightly<br />
larger primary main, two sizes up on <strong>the</strong> primary air, and one size up on <strong>the</strong> secondary air.<br />
it is MUCH more responsive now. getting closer to what I'm striving for -- a nice responsive pedal at all conditions; kind of a<br />
"thick" feeling; smooth, full throttle response. still not breakneck or anything, but better than it's been. I've got a little slop to work<br />
out which I think may be timing related, but with <strong>the</strong> minor changes from <strong>the</strong> stock config, my truck's really come alive. I can't get<br />
over how much more responsive it is just by bumping up those airs.<br />
<strong>the</strong> sluggishness I described before was from <strong>the</strong> main circuits being too rich -- you nailed it Sarge -- bump up <strong>the</strong> airs to "brake"<br />
<strong>the</strong> main circuit a bit; both delay when it comes in and lean it out a bit. I guess <strong>the</strong> main was overlapping with <strong>the</strong> idle circuit too<br />
much, which would explain why it cleaned up when I opened <strong>the</strong> throttle more & <strong>the</strong> vacuum fell off of <strong>the</strong> idle circuit a bit. I was in<br />
<strong>the</strong> right ballpark with <strong>the</strong> o<strong>the</strong>r jets it seems, with <strong>the</strong> air correctors being <strong>the</strong> fine tuning I needed.<br />
I'll have to drive it around a bit more like this to get a better feel for it, but so far I'm quite pleased.<br />
oh, and about <strong>the</strong> timing -- I've got an adjustable craftsman timing light, but <strong>the</strong> knob has a good bit of play in it, so I'm not sure<br />
where exactly my timing is. you can turn <strong>the</strong> knob all <strong>the</strong> way down and it ends up below zero. <strong>the</strong>n when you start to turn it, you<br />
can get to like 2 or 3 degrees before you can feel <strong>the</strong> knob resist. I'm not sure how to read this thing at this point. I was out<br />
looking around today for a cheap standard timing light to compare it with, but <strong>the</strong>re aren't any to be had for less than $35. do you<br />
have an adjustable light like this and if so, do you have a similar problem?<br />
Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
A friend of mine had one of those lights, and <strong>the</strong> same problem with it . We tried several times to re-calibrate by using my light<br />
and seeing if his returned to <strong>the</strong> same point . It did not, every time he brought it back down it would land on a different spot,<strong>the</strong><br />
light was junk. I've been told that some of <strong>the</strong> auto parts stores like Advanced Auto have a nice digital similar to Snap-On's for<br />
around $100 or so, cheap compared to <strong>the</strong>irs. You will find that timing lights vary a lot, no two seem to read <strong>the</strong> same <strong>the</strong>se days.<br />
So much for modern manufacturing . One nice thing about dial back lights is <strong>the</strong> ability to check total advance, that's how we dial<br />
a buddy's dirt race care. Initial is not a concern, just set it to 36* at 4k and let <strong>the</strong> initial fall where it may. This insures <strong>the</strong> car's<br />
total timing is set properly and it won't detonate under a load.<br />
Keep an eye on your plugs while you drive this test . There are times that good "response" feel comes from running pretty lean .<br />
There is a point where power can be pretty high just before melting a piston or burning valves. You will also find that if <strong>the</strong> float is<br />
a bit low, raising it will bring in <strong>the</strong> mains harder and sometimes also increase throttle response.<br />
One thing I see with your jetting , <strong>the</strong> way <strong>the</strong> idles and mains are up to a fairly high point in <strong>the</strong> secondary. I'd bet <strong>the</strong> cam timing<br />
is off a bit . You wouldn't belive how much difference 1-2* can make in a motor . Got any specs on it , or is it stock ?<br />
Sarge<br />
77celica Re: <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>32</strong>/<strong>36DGV</strong> <strong>verses</strong> <strong>the</strong> <strong>Weber</strong> <strong>38DGES</strong><br />
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