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German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines

German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines

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MITTELRHEIN WINES<br />

94<br />

jost at a glance:<br />

Primo estate with impeccable reputation for top-flight<br />

Rieslings. <strong>Wines</strong> emphasize beauty of fruit rather than mineral.<br />

It is the quality of fruit you look for here, and this is<br />

how the wines taste:<br />

about as lovely as it gets; a delicate melange of sweetapple,<br />

white peach, honeysuckle, expressed in a resplendent elegance, always stopping<br />

short of mere sultriness.<br />

GTJ-062 2005 Bacharacher Riesling Spätlese Feinherb<br />

Unusually for Jost, this wine is all mineral; dry but gently so; a fine dark slatiness,<br />

birchy and burning-leaf; it has 16.2g.l. RS and is a little snappy at the very end, but the<br />

attack and middle are so sinewy and dense the wine works, especially for those who<br />

enjoy a dramatically mineral profile.<br />

SOS: minus-1 (now- 3 years, again 9-12 years)<br />

GTJ-064 2005 Wallufer Walkenberg Riesling Spätlese<br />

As often with this Rheingau wine there’s a sort of cherry-tobacco and earthy note; the<br />

`02 adds lime and empire apple; lovely lush fruit with a solid earth & stone note which<br />

most tasters will like and a few will read as “sour”; count me among those delighted<br />

with its balsam barky charm.<br />

SOS: 2 (7-18 years)<br />

GTJ-063 2005 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Kabinett +<br />

The 2nd year of drip-irrigation in this famously dry site, and a serene harvest “without<br />

stress, and plenty of time to select,” said Peter. A gorgeous fragrance of cox-orange, nectarine<br />

and mineral dust; seems drier than usual (I’ll bet it isn’t) thanks to its leesy-mineral<br />

mass; a great swirl of green (herbs and balsam) and yellow (nectarines, roses); endless<br />

spicy length and a lashing snap of slate on the finish.<br />

SOMMELIER ALERT! SOS: 2 (8-22 years)<br />

GTJ-065 2005 Bacharacher Hahn Riesling Spätlese<br />

Take the Kabinett and add a spoonful of Tasmanian leatherwood honey, a dash of malt<br />

and a slim square of milk-chocolate — even a bit of cardamom and ginger et voila: you<br />

have it. Of course “it” is merely my string of associations, and your antic self might say<br />

“Ecuadoran tobacco, turbinado sugar cubes and kielbasa,” and the punters will decide<br />

which of us is right, or more pathetic. But there are certain honeys where you can smell<br />

the meadows and the fields, and this wine is like that.<br />

SOS: 2 (9-24 years)

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