German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines

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ii “Within every effort there has to be calm,” she recites for him. “Always, in every pose, you have to stop just before the effort becomes pain.” “Sometimes I think…a bird, for example,” he says. “Yes, what about it?” “To fly, it has to keep flapping its wings, right?” “Definitely,” she agrees gravely. “I’m not talking about gliding,” he says fussily, and her ear opens a little at the sound of the new word. “There are birds that glide without making any effort, but I’m talking about a bird that has to make an effort to fly up.” “Okay.” Nili shrugs, wondering where he himself is flying with this. “And a bird that lives, say, for a year? Two?” “Let’s say.” “And all that time it has to make an effort with its wings, otherwise it’ll fall?” “Definitely.” “But maybe once, like one time in its whole life, it happens that it can fly up high, the highest — for maybe a whole minute — without making any effort at all with its wings?” She leans forward, shrinking the crease between her eyes, sensing something approaching. “And how exactly does that happen?” He takes on a mysterious expression. “It gets it from the air.” “I don’t get it.” “Like once in every bird’s life, the air lets it fly up without making any effort.” She blinks. What is it with these aerodynamic theories all of a sudden? But he’s very serious and focused. “It’s like . . .” He searches for an example, his fingers moving, pulling something from the air. “It’s like, say . . . a holiday bonus, like the air is giving it a bonus. A discount. Once in a lifetime.” “Oh.” Nili laughs with sudden comprehension. “And does it know, the bird? Does it understand?” He falters. “That’s what I keep wondering. `Cause if it doesn’t understand, then it’s like the air’s efforts are wasted on it, no?” “I guess so,” she answers, delighted. “And if it does understand, then . . . No, that can’t be . . . No. It must not understand, `cause it’s just a bird, with a bird brain. Sure.” He gets excited; now that he’s made up his mind, his face lights up. “It’s something the air does just for fun!” From the great relief on his face she guesses how long the question has preoccupied him. “It doesn’t even realize it at all! Just that suddenly it feels light, but it’s the air that decides: Okay, now you. Playing with its birds, you see?” Do I see? Nili wonders, looking at him contemplatively. “And by the way,” he adds gravely after a minute, “it’s the same with the sea and the fishes.” From Her Body Knows, by David Grossman Front Cover Photos: Grapes on the vine and in hand at Selbach-Oster, 2005 vintage. Photos by Hannah Selbach.
“This thing we tell of can never be found by seeking, yet only seekers find it.” -Abu Yazid al-Bistami iii
Page 1: terry theise estate selections Impo
Page 6 and 7: iv contents Theise Manifesto . . .
Page 8 and 9: vi LET US WRITE YOUR ORDER FOR YOU!
Page 10 and 11: 2 These things coincided with a dec
Page 12 and 13: 4 View of the Mosel. human care and
Page 14 and 15: 6 Continuing New Approach to Tastin
Page 16 and 17: 8 Making the Case For German Wines
Page 18 and 19: 10 I’m sure I didn’t convert th
Page 20 and 21: 12 Principles of Selection in this
Page 22 and 23: 14 Belgium, and they immediately ru
Page 24 and 25: 16 Core-List Wines The core-list, w
Page 26 and 27: 18 to know better) that the great d
Page 28 and 29: 20 How I Approach Wine, or Let Wine
Page 30 and 31: 22 time and lots of flavor. Due to
Page 32 and 33: 24 SHORT-LIST FOR ROCKHEADS: Dr Dei
Page 34 and 35: 26 “Antiques” 2001 has modestly
Page 36 and 37: 28 Ah but this isn’t P.C., you se
Page 38 and 39: 30 How German Wines Age To define a
Page 40 and 41: 32 Label Basics German labels are s
Page 42 and 43: 34 around until he gets fluent in t
Page 44 and 45: 36 Plusses and The Quest For Perfec
Page 46 and 47: 38 sommelier alert GSO-264 2005 Sel
Page 48 and 49: 40 subject: why riesling? A) Becaus
Page 50 and 51: 42 Treking up the Erdener Treppchen
Page 52 and 53: MOSEL WINES 44 Other Regionals from
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MOSEL WINES 46 could do was sit the
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MOSEL WINES 48 A Look At The Vineya
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MOSEL WINES 50 THE SPÄTLESEN GSO-2
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MOSEL WINES 52 SCHTICKIES! GSO-281
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MOSEL WINES 54 Erstwhile cellar-mas
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MOSEL WINES 56 it’s confusing. Me
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MOSEL WINES 58 alfred merkelbach mo
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MOSEL WINES 60 GME-135 2005 Ürzige
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MOSEL WINES 62 joh. jos. christoffe
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MOSEL WINES 64 GJC-146 2005 Erdener
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MOSEL WINES 66 Sleek, feminine, ele
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MOSEL WINES 68 he elects not to.
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MOSEL WINES 70 a.j. adam mosel •
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MOSEL WINES 72 changing; enterprisi
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MOSEL WINES 74 reuscher-haart mosel
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MOSEL WINES 76 hoffmann-simon •Vi
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MOSEL WINES 78 weingut ansgar clüs
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80 Does this self-evident truth rea
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MOSEL WINES 82 carl loewen mosel
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MOSEL WINES 84 carl schmitt-wagner
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MOSEL WINES 86 karlsmühle-geiben r
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88 Is all taste equally valid? Sure
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90 mittelrhein wines In 1900 there
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MITTELRHEIN WINES 92 Bacharach, but
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MITTELRHEIN WINES 94 jost at a glan
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96 nahe wines It is a joy to labor
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NAHE WINES 98 dönnhoff nahe • ob
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NAHE WINES 100 vintage happens befo
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NAHE WINES 102 GDH-172 2005 Estate
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NAHE WINES 104 helmut mathern nahe
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106 the matter of “globalization
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NAHE WINES 108 jakob schneider nahe
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NAHE WINES 110 GJS-067 2005 Niederh
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NAHE WINES 112 Meddersheimer Rheing
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NAHE WINES 114 kruger-rumpf nahe
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NAHE WINES 116 GKF-099 2005 Scheure
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NAHE WINES 118 viti-and-viniculture
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NAHE WINES 120 THE AMAZING TRIO OF
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 122 j.u.h.a. stru
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 124 started to wo
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 126 THE PATERBERG
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 128 wagner-stempe
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 130 GWG-016 2005
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 132 weingut oekon
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 134 gernot gysler
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 136 christian-wil
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138 tasting versus drinking I once
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140 rheingau wines Recently Jancis
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RHEINGAU WINES 142 josef leitz rhei
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RHEINGAU WINES 144 Rüdesheim Viney
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RHEINGAU WINES 146 On August 4th, 2
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RHEINGAU WINES 148 I did, and liked
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150 why does place-specificity matt
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152 pfalz wines In the pretty walle
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PFALZ WINES 154 müller-catoir pfal
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PFALZ WINES 156 THE NOT-DRY WINES!
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PFALZ WINES 158 josef biffar pfalz
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160 scheurebe: what gives? Um, I ha
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PFALZ WINES 162 board; these were t
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PFALZ WINES 164 eugen müller pfalz
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PFALZ WINES 166 GEM-080H 2005 Forst
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PFALZ WINES 168 Messmers use only o
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PFALZ WINES 170 theo minges pfalz
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PFALZ WINES 172 GTM-093 2005 Gleisw
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PFALZ WINES 174 Well, guess again.
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PFALZ WINES 176 kurt darting pfalz
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PFALZ WINES 178 GDR-143 2005 Dürkh
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Back Cover Photo: Deer resting in t
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German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines

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