German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines

RIESLANER, THE RIESLING-VIAGRA
Rieslaner is a crossing bred in Franken, presumably to create a grape which would give
Silvaner expression in Franken soils and bring Riesling acidity and frost-resistance
along. It does seem to make the best Franken wines and good to stunning wine anyplace
else it’s grown. Which isn’t often, unfortunately. Other growers report its acidity
is obstreperous in unripe years, but Schwarz loved it for just that reason. I find it an
innately fine variety, which gives more acid than Riesling of similar ripeness. Its inherent
varietal flavor is lime-grass and berry rather than apple or peach. It can produce
the most singular great wine on earth, the only great wine of its type. But make no mistake,
this is “supernally” great wine; nothing else even comes close. Rieslaner is more
widely planted than one might suspect, though little of it is bottled as-is. Many growers
have it planted as a kind of secret-weapon to be blended with Riesling! Even five
percent Rieslaner will galvanize a decently good Riesling, or so I am told, by someone
who would never himself do such a thing . . . .
GMC-101 2005 Mussbacher Eselshaut Rieslaner Spätlese ++
Archetypally monumental Rieslaner! Both the stewed-peach of the site and the fierce
complexity of the variety. Power, spice, scintillating juiciness yet so solid and resolute
it never palls. This is a masterpiece.
SOS: 2 (3-16 years)
GMC-105 2001 Mussbacher Eselshaut Rieslaner Spätlese +
First offering. (In 2002 I shipped the Schlössel.) Like the `01 Riesling, this seems drier,
more of a “table-wine” though this could be simple age and not a fundamental difference
in winemaking; where the `05 motor roars this motor hums. Insane complexity goes almost
without saying. Cherry tobacco, old armoire. What a TREAT to be offered it again. Thanks
Hans-Günter, for the soul you put into these wines — as if you could have done otherwise.
SOS: 2 (3-16 years)
GMC-088H 2004 Haardter Herzog Rieslaner Auslese, 12/375ml +
An early December harvest, 140° Oechsle, and has a surmise of Eiswein tone, but a fine
complexity here with lovely exotic notes; has mass without heaviness, and never seems
“sweet”, but if you could somehow grind out some liquid from lilacs and stones (and
salami!) you’d get this. The finish is staggering.
SOS: 3 (from one to seventeen years)
GMC-102H 2005 Gimmeldinger Schlössel Rieslaner BA, 12/375ml +(+)
Too early to note, except to say it’s like you were lying in bed some morning while
breakfast was cooking in the house; bacon, French toast, coffee. Eventually someone
brings it to you. Some fig jam for the French toast? Why yes.
SOS: 4 (14-27 years)
GMC-103H 2005 Gimmeldinger Schlössel Rieslaner TBA, 12/375ml ++
230 little degrees Oechsle. Clean and clear despite its mass and creamy richness.
SOS: 4 (20-50 years)
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PFALZ WINES