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German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines

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GDH-180 2005 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese +++<br />

Very deep cherry-tobacco fragrances; once again there is the clearest, tenderest explanation<br />

of this whole gorgeous dialectic — cherry, lime, maple, smoke, apple-skin, wintergreen;<br />

has the cat-claws and also the soft fur; as murmury as otters but then suddenly<br />

as springy as a gazelle.<br />

SOS: 2 (9-27 years) AVAILABLE IN MAGNUMS: PLEASE INQUIRE<br />

GDH-181H 2005 Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Auslese, 12/375ml ++<br />

Less a leap to another level than a widening and deepening of the Spät. Botrytis brings<br />

an iris note, but it extends the minerality and lengthens the string of nuances; it’s firmer,<br />

more determined, but not sweeter.<br />

SOMMELIER ALERT! SOS: 2 (12-32 years) AVAILABLE IN MAGNUMS: PLEASE<br />

INQUIRE.<br />

GDH-182H 2005 Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Auslese, 12/375ml +++<br />

Juicier, more explicitly flavory and brilliant; more thrilling than the Spät, and a perfect<br />

genially playful flinging together of all possible elements. It’s also not “dessert-wine”<br />

sweet. I realize this note isn’t as rapturous as the three plusses would suggest. THEY<br />

are true, and I was wrung out!<br />

SOS: 2 (15-40 years) AVAILABLE IN MAGNUMS; PLEASE INQUIRE<br />

GDH-183H2005 Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Auslese, 12/375ml +++<br />

Almost a savagely beautiful nose; this is the wine equivalent of a tantric orgasm. At this<br />

point nothing more need be (or can be) delineated — you are slammed into a wall of<br />

bliss, and nothing ever prepared you to be so happy.<br />

SOS: 3 (13-37 years) AVAILABLE IN MAGNUMS: PLEASE INQUIRE.<br />

FINAL NOTE: there are three TBAs (Dellchen, Brücke, Hermannshöhle) I hope to taste<br />

in June when (maybe) they’ll actually have become wine. They’re destined for auction<br />

but maybe one critter will be spared for we whose incomes fall short of the Buffets’ and<br />

Soros’. If we get any I’ll let you know.<br />

103<br />

NAHE WINES

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