German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines

Mid-sized Mosel estate making old-school slatey-
clüsserath at a glance:
leesy classics and selling them at fair prices. Under the
careful eye of a smart young woman, these have nowhere to go but up.
how the wines taste:
striking minerality.
A charming amalgam of Trittenheim’s charmingly pliant
fruit (less stiff than say Graacher Domprobst) with
GAC-015 2005 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Kabinett +
Swir-r-r-r-r-rllll . . . but at last it shows that 75-ish fruit with the usual “dark” mineral
tones, becoming almost profound in its amazing Autumn-y portrayal of burning-leaves
and cidering; it is nothing but absurd to obtain this as “Kabinett”.
SOMMELIER ALERT (DECANT!) SOS:1 (7-23 years)
GAC-016 2005 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Spätlese ++
I think this is the best wine Eva has made; more iron-rich and masculine now, and when
it emerges it comes as almost a shock, it has such salty mass of fruit; the wine is saturated
with saturation, ridiculously, riotously “green”, an extravagance of woodruff,
lime, verbena, balsam. Sheesh! I haven’t even started telling you about the insanely
long essence-of-slate finish. Amazing wine.
SOS: 2 (9-27 years)
GAC-010H 2003 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Auslese 12/500ml
I know, this is my little quixotic cluelessness, there was an `05 Auslese (you better
believe it) but we tasted this one alongside and in fact it is the more attractive wine,
and will remain so for the next several years. It has emerged from its youthful turbulence
into a food wine of wonderful purity; glass-clear apple and slate nose; golden
ripeness without explicit botrytis; rich and grand but fresh, like big white sails flapping
in a cool blue wind; lovely balsam finish. I know it barely has a commercial chance
— it just happens to be the best option I could offer you!
SOS: 3 (10-35 years)
GAC-011H 2003 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling BA, 12/375ml
Bananas Foster in a glass! A malty nectar of pure fine botrytis.
SOS: 4 (between fifteen and forty-five years)
79
MOSEL WINES