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German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines

German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines

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GMS-113 2005 Muskateller Kabinett +<br />

No site-name. Gregor observes “I think you should only have on the label what you can<br />

taste in the glass,” so he reserves place-names for Riesling, which always conveys<br />

where it’s planted. This is in fact Halbtrocken, and it is also in fact simply wonderful;<br />

perfect serene aromas, starting out roses, then lime, wintergreen, tarragon, mineral; the<br />

palate seems to scratch a deep, deep itch with knowing sharp nails; it’s a shower of fruit<br />

and salty minerality, and it lights up the body with sheer animal joy.<br />

SOMMELIER ALERT! SOS: 0 (now-7 years)<br />

GMS-118 2005 Michelsberg Riesling Spätlese Grosses Gewächs<br />

The site belongs to the village of Weyher; it’s just north of Altenforst; the soil includes<br />

slate along with mineral-rich sand; it is certainly Gregor’s most compelling dry<br />

Riesling; a gorgeous aroma of quince, linden and cold-cuts; the palate is wonderfully<br />

dense with a kind of creamy minerality, and for the first 67% it gives you everything<br />

you can ask from dry Riesling — whereupon, despite its 9g.l. residual sugar (the limit<br />

for GG), it becomes apparent the wine screams for more; the fruit abruptly stops, you<br />

feel the alcohol, and an endive-bitterness clamps down. What’s good is so good you<br />

deserve to learn of it. Tell me if you like it more than I do.<br />

SOS: minus-1 (now-4 years)<br />

GMS-115 2005 Burrweiler Altenforst Gewürztraminer Spätlese<br />

Mr. Midas-touch with this variety does it again, this time with `05’s form and grip.<br />

There is no Gewürz in <strong>German</strong>y as consistently superb as Meßmer’s.<br />

SOS: 3 (now-6 years)<br />

GMS-116 2005 Burrweiler Schäwer Riesling Spätlese +<br />

Again this is serene and luminous; rather on the sweet side; a lovely nose of violet,<br />

hyacinth, mirabelle and tilleul; a caressing refined and satiny palate leads into a spicy<br />

perfumey finish that’s all flowers. For the long-haul.<br />

SOS: 3 (12-27 years)<br />

GMS-117 2005 Rieslaner Auslese ++<br />

This is quite the critter here! 116º Oechsle; it tastes like a bunch of clotted cream poured<br />

over a Sherman tank; penetrating lime-grass spice and wintergreen leads to am amazing<br />

palate at once poundingly intense yet bubble-bath voluptuous, and the fruit is<br />

astoundingly clear and candid; the botrytis was pristine. I mean, YOW; one of the great<br />

wines of the vintage.<br />

SOS: 4 (8-22 years)<br />

GMS-081H 2001 Burrweiler Schlossgarten Muskateller BA, 12/375ml +<br />

135º Oechsle. This has ravishing purity; picked November 10th from the fruit left hanging<br />

after the “little” Muscat was gathered. Riotous psychedelic flower-fragrance; seductive<br />

botrytis, quite sweet, but as pretty as a purple pony.<br />

SOS: 4 (between eight and twenty-five years)<br />

169<br />

PFALZ WINES

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