German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines
German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines
German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines
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GKR-090 2005 Kallstadter Steinacker Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken<br />
This tasted drier than a Trocken estate-Riesling we’d just tasted — sweetness doesn’t<br />
always register as sweet, does it! The wine is really stony and gingery; it has the roasted-beet<br />
note of the Höllberg from Wagner-Stempel; an old-school dry stony Riesling<br />
with lots of torque and power. Lavishly dry, you might say. Oh go on, say it.<br />
SOS: 0 (3-12 years)<br />
GKR-091 2005 Kallstadter Steinacker Riesling Kabinett<br />
CORE-LIST WINE. Now more red beet and cinammon, and less pure stone; soy and<br />
honey-mushroom aromas; thickly dense and tannic; barely off-dry; it finds a talc-y jasmine-y<br />
mineral as it finishes. Remarkable.<br />
SOMMELIER ALERT! SOS: 1 (5-18 years)<br />
GKR-092 2005 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken ++<br />
I confess I expected nothing like this. I’d wondered whether Bernd’s big wines would collapse<br />
under their botrytis, but this has a seductive creaminess like I’ve never seen: it<br />
smells exactly like Mesnil, in fact: apple-blossom, jasmine, chalk, honeysuckle; the palate<br />
is a creamsicle of terroir, a masterly weaving of mineral, sweet lees and endless wintergreeny<br />
length. There is no other Riesling like it, and EVERY order should include it.<br />
SOMMELIER ALERT! SOS: 1 (now-4 years, again 13-18 years)<br />
GKR-087 2004 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Spätlese ++<br />
There’s a very fine `05 in the wings but this wine is so good I want to sell it out first.<br />
This takes the palate past the speed-of-taste; I’ve never seen such a crazed interplay of<br />
elements; all of the above plus salts and mineral and wild-plums, with glass-clear<br />
vivid splishy lift. Without sacrificing his house-style, these `04s take it places it has<br />
never gone.<br />
SOS: 2 (between seven and twenty-five years)<br />
SOMMELIER ALERT!<br />
GKR-093 2004 Kallstadter Saumagen Scheurebe BA +<br />
GKR-093H 2004 Kallstadter Saumagen Scheurebe BA, 12/375ml<br />
A Philippi wine to the very marrow; fiercely spicy and brash; where anyone else’s BA<br />
would be sweet this is pupil-shrinkingly minty, a wasabi-Scheu; crazed ginger and<br />
lime, phosphorescent brilliance; I mean we’re talking babbling-loony wine here folks!<br />
SOS: 3 (now- 13 years)<br />
175<br />
PFALZ WINES