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German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines

German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines

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GKR-090 2005 Kallstadter Steinacker Riesling Kabinett Halbtrocken<br />

This tasted drier than a Trocken estate-Riesling we’d just tasted — sweetness doesn’t<br />

always register as sweet, does it! The wine is really stony and gingery; it has the roasted-beet<br />

note of the Höllberg from Wagner-Stempel; an old-school dry stony Riesling<br />

with lots of torque and power. Lavishly dry, you might say. Oh go on, say it.<br />

SOS: 0 (3-12 years)<br />

GKR-091 2005 Kallstadter Steinacker Riesling Kabinett<br />

CORE-LIST WINE. Now more red beet and cinammon, and less pure stone; soy and<br />

honey-mushroom aromas; thickly dense and tannic; barely off-dry; it finds a talc-y jasmine-y<br />

mineral as it finishes. Remarkable.<br />

SOMMELIER ALERT! SOS: 1 (5-18 years)<br />

GKR-092 2005 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Spätlese Halbtrocken ++<br />

I confess I expected nothing like this. I’d wondered whether Bernd’s big wines would collapse<br />

under their botrytis, but this has a seductive creaminess like I’ve never seen: it<br />

smells exactly like Mesnil, in fact: apple-blossom, jasmine, chalk, honeysuckle; the palate<br />

is a creamsicle of terroir, a masterly weaving of mineral, sweet lees and endless wintergreeny<br />

length. There is no other Riesling like it, and EVERY order should include it.<br />

SOMMELIER ALERT! SOS: 1 (now-4 years, again 13-18 years)<br />

GKR-087 2004 Kallstadter Saumagen Riesling Spätlese ++<br />

There’s a very fine `05 in the wings but this wine is so good I want to sell it out first.<br />

This takes the palate past the speed-of-taste; I’ve never seen such a crazed interplay of<br />

elements; all of the above plus salts and mineral and wild-plums, with glass-clear<br />

vivid splishy lift. Without sacrificing his house-style, these `04s take it places it has<br />

never gone.<br />

SOS: 2 (between seven and twenty-five years)<br />

SOMMELIER ALERT!<br />

GKR-093 2004 Kallstadter Saumagen Scheurebe BA +<br />

GKR-093H 2004 Kallstadter Saumagen Scheurebe BA, 12/375ml<br />

A Philippi wine to the very marrow; fiercely spicy and brash; where anyone else’s BA<br />

would be sweet this is pupil-shrinkingly minty, a wasabi-Scheu; crazed ginger and<br />

lime, phosphorescent brilliance; I mean we’re talking babbling-loony wine here folks!<br />

SOS: 3 (now- 13 years)<br />

175<br />

PFALZ WINES

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