German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines

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MOSEL WINES 52 SCHTICKIES! GSO-281 2005 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling BA ++ GSO-281H 2005 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling BA, 12/375ml Balls-to-the-wall power here, an enveloping BA that’s elegant and not voluptuous, with creamy-malty flavors but even more lovely, with slatey-apple flavors; almost tenderly vinous primary fruit-slate notes that don’t have to impress you since you’re already melted. One of the greatest sweet wines of the vintage. SOS-4 (20-40 years) GSO-282 2005 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling BA* ++(+) GSO-282H 2005 Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling BA*, 12/375ml Even more torque, more horsepower, more intensity; a louder roar and possible eventually even more force and drama — but now, today, I can’t possible choose between them. SOS-4 (25-45 years) Final notes: There are no fewer than four TBAs in various states of fermentation. There will be MAGNUMS offered of many of the “collectibles”, so watch for our offering. Last, the 3-star Auslese and both BAs will be bottled in 750s also; please inquire if you’re interested. FISH LABELS I didn‘t like these labels when I first saw them, but everyone else did and you do too. Shows what a marketing hot-shot I am! These are our go-to Mosel wines in the value category, and are certainly wines of the type-no-fridge-should-be-without. GSZ-017 The Dry wine in the clear bottle comes from Zeltingen, Kinheim and Erden, Kabinett juice gently chaptalized, and it shows satisfying weight, minerality and stylishness. It‘s really dry-minus 1 on my scale - but no sharp edges. GSZ-019 The Kabinett comes from 15 kilometres around Zeltingen. A lot of it is Zeltingen, Bernkastel-Kues and Kinheim fruit, some Erden, some Brauneberg. This is bottled in the normal bottle is quite simply delightful; the `05 is equal to many Späts from good estates; it’s on the dry side; it is loaded with fruit and plum-blossom and has amazing length and depth; JUMP ON <strong>THIS</strong>, as this great-vintage quality may never be equaled again. As fruity as a key-lime pie and as long as The Brothers Karamozov.
erich jakoby-mathy mosel • kinheim I really want you to meet Stefan Jakoby, but you have to fly over there to do it. He’d gladly come over here to present his wines; problem is, the lad ain’t old enough to drink in These Unites States. At the moment he divides his time between the estate, where he works alongside his father Erich, and a day-job in the Selbach office. But the young man’s absolutely nuts about wine, and he has that infectious puppy energy some of us might remember from our own distant pasts. Normally I taste Jakoby’s range in the tasting room at Selbach, but this year I was struck enough by their ambitiousness that I scheduled a visit to Kinheim. Far too much was made of this; it was my honor to visit, not theirs to receive me. But I was quite impressed and even roused by what I tasted. Long-time readers will know the connection between Selbachs and Jakobys: Erich was cellarmaster at Selbach for many years, until his father’s failing health compelled a full-time return to the family winery. But even then he stayed on with Selbachs on an ad-hoc basis, and went on over-achieving in Kinheim. If you go downstream from Uerzig-Erden you first come to Lösnich and then to Kinheim. Most commentators would say Kinheim constitutes a “decline” from the Grand Cru continuum running from Bernkastel to Erden, and I agree it does. Immediately behind the village there’s a crazy-steep hump of hill formerly known as Eulenlay which was considered first-class land in the famous 19th-century classification for tax-assessments. Stefan and Peter Jakoby Behind it the slope undulates, sometimes steep, sometimes gentle. The soil is lighter. Yet good Kinheimers are scrupulously pure Mosel Rieslings on an everyday scale. Overachievers such as Merkelbach and Jakoby will give us incredible values. One almost grows nostalgic. When I started out, my modus operandi was to unearth just these kinds of things; values from high-achievers in locales others had overlooked. A then-competitor referred derisively to •Vineyard area: 4.3 hectares •Annual production: 4,000 cases •Top sites: Kinheimer Rosenberg •Soil types: Slate • Grape varieties: 90% Riesling, 10% Spätburgunder “Theise’s little growers”, many of whom have since become the superstars of the modern scene. Erich Jakoby’s wines were already very good — he took Selbach methods and applied them to wines which seldom receive such exalted care (much to his father’s consternation) — but Stefan seems determined to take it even farther. And why not? Who knows what Kinheim can show when a young hottie is hellbent on letting it show? Not to mention what is possible from a great Mosel vintage . . . The very first wine he gave me was a wackoid Pinot Noir from `05 with 14% alc (from the frigid little Mosel) and two months in American oak. He then showed me two wines that, without exaggeration, amazed me. 53 MOSEL WINES
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terry theise estate selections Impo
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ii “Within every effort there has
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iv contents Theise Manifesto . . .
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vi LET US WRITE YOUR ORDER FOR YOU!
Page 10 and 11: 2 These things coincided with a dec
Page 12 and 13: 4 View of the Mosel. human care and
Page 14 and 15: 6 Continuing New Approach to Tastin
Page 16 and 17: 8 Making the Case For German Wines
Page 18 and 19: 10 I’m sure I didn’t convert th
Page 20 and 21: 12 Principles of Selection in this
Page 22 and 23: 14 Belgium, and they immediately ru
Page 24 and 25: 16 Core-List Wines The core-list, w
Page 26 and 27: 18 to know better) that the great d
Page 28 and 29: 20 How I Approach Wine, or Let Wine
Page 30 and 31: 22 time and lots of flavor. Due to
Page 32 and 33: 24 SHORT-LIST FOR ROCKHEADS: Dr Dei
Page 34 and 35: 26 “Antiques” 2001 has modestly
Page 36 and 37: 28 Ah but this isn’t P.C., you se
Page 38 and 39: 30 How German Wines Age To define a
Page 40 and 41: 32 Label Basics German labels are s
Page 42 and 43: 34 around until he gets fluent in t
Page 44 and 45: 36 Plusses and The Quest For Perfec
Page 46 and 47: 38 sommelier alert GSO-264 2005 Sel
Page 48 and 49: 40 subject: why riesling? A) Becaus
Page 50 and 51: 42 Treking up the Erdener Treppchen
Page 52 and 53: MOSEL WINES 44 Other Regionals from
Page 54 and 55: MOSEL WINES 46 could do was sit the
Page 56 and 57: MOSEL WINES 48 A Look At The Vineya
Page 58 and 59: MOSEL WINES 50 THE SPÄTLESEN GSO-2
Page 62 and 63: MOSEL WINES 54 Erstwhile cellar-mas
Page 64 and 65: MOSEL WINES 56 it’s confusing. Me
Page 66 and 67: MOSEL WINES 58 alfred merkelbach mo
Page 68 and 69: MOSEL WINES 60 GME-135 2005 Ürzige
Page 70 and 71: MOSEL WINES 62 joh. jos. christoffe
Page 72 and 73: MOSEL WINES 64 GJC-146 2005 Erdener
Page 74 and 75: MOSEL WINES 66 Sleek, feminine, ele
Page 76 and 77: MOSEL WINES 68 he elects not to.
Page 78 and 79: MOSEL WINES 70 a.j. adam mosel •
Page 80 and 81: MOSEL WINES 72 changing; enterprisi
Page 82 and 83: MOSEL WINES 74 reuscher-haart mosel
Page 84 and 85: MOSEL WINES 76 hoffmann-simon •Vi
Page 86 and 87: MOSEL WINES 78 weingut ansgar clüs
Page 88 and 89: 80 Does this self-evident truth rea
Page 90 and 91: MOSEL WINES 82 carl loewen mosel
Page 92 and 93: MOSEL WINES 84 carl schmitt-wagner
Page 94 and 95: MOSEL WINES 86 karlsmühle-geiben r
Page 96 and 97: 88 Is all taste equally valid? Sure
Page 98 and 99: 90 mittelrhein wines In 1900 there
Page 100 and 101: MITTELRHEIN WINES 92 Bacharach, but
Page 102 and 103: MITTELRHEIN WINES 94 jost at a glan
Page 104 and 105: 96 nahe wines It is a joy to labor
Page 106 and 107: NAHE WINES 98 dönnhoff nahe • ob
Page 108 and 109: NAHE WINES 100 vintage happens befo
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NAHE WINES 102 GDH-172 2005 Estate
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NAHE WINES 104 helmut mathern nahe
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106 the matter of “globalization
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NAHE WINES 108 jakob schneider nahe
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NAHE WINES 110 GJS-067 2005 Niederh
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NAHE WINES 112 Meddersheimer Rheing
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NAHE WINES 114 kruger-rumpf nahe
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NAHE WINES 116 GKF-099 2005 Scheure
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NAHE WINES 118 viti-and-viniculture
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NAHE WINES 120 THE AMAZING TRIO OF
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 122 j.u.h.a. stru
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 124 started to wo
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 126 THE PATERBERG
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 128 wagner-stempe
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 130 GWG-016 2005
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 132 weingut oekon
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 134 gernot gysler
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RHEINHESSEN WINES 136 christian-wil
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138 tasting versus drinking I once
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140 rheingau wines Recently Jancis
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RHEINGAU WINES 142 josef leitz rhei
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RHEINGAU WINES 144 Rüdesheim Viney
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RHEINGAU WINES 146 On August 4th, 2
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RHEINGAU WINES 148 I did, and liked
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150 why does place-specificity matt
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152 pfalz wines In the pretty walle
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PFALZ WINES 154 müller-catoir pfal
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PFALZ WINES 156 THE NOT-DRY WINES!
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PFALZ WINES 158 josef biffar pfalz
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160 scheurebe: what gives? Um, I ha
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PFALZ WINES 162 board; these were t
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PFALZ WINES 164 eugen müller pfalz
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PFALZ WINES 166 GEM-080H 2005 Forst
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PFALZ WINES 168 Messmers use only o
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PFALZ WINES 170 theo minges pfalz
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PFALZ WINES 172 GTM-093 2005 Gleisw
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PFALZ WINES 174 Well, guess again.
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PFALZ WINES 176 kurt darting pfalz
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PFALZ WINES 178 GDR-143 2005 Dürkh
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Back Cover Photo: Deer resting in t
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German Catalog 2006 USE THIS ONE.qxp - Michael Skurnik Wines

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